So what did you do to your 6.0L today?
#7036
12-07-2014, 09:12 PM
#7037
12-07-2014, 09:18 PM
#7039
12-07-2014, 10:46 PM
So I think my alternator is going down the tubes. I saw today it was showing about 13.4-13.6 volts today down from 14-14.2 earlier in the week. Would this cause my FICM voltage to drop like a stone as well? Before it was 47-48 consistently and is now registering 40-44 volts... at times it is in the 48 range it is supposed to be but more often that not it is ~40-44 volts. Do both need to be replaced? If I throw in a new/reman alt will that maybe fix my FICM woes or will that need to replaced as well. Been showing white smoke on cold startup yesterday/today and goes away after warmed up. Some threads point to FICM failure... but as I said earlier could it be linked to FICM low voltage because of alternator?
Thanks,
Nate
Thanks,
Nate
Ed
#7040
12-07-2014, 10:53 PM
Hey Nate - as Sparky suggested, I'd clean up the contacts and bench test the alternator to see what's what. If you do need a replacement, we could ship you one along with an exchange unit FICM or with a repaired version of yours. The lowest end unit we carry puts out at hot idle what the OEM unit does driving down the road!
Ed
Ed
#7041
12-07-2014, 11:01 PM
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sparky83, Ed, and badford thank you for your replies. FTE is always a great community.
I will check the contacts and bench test the alt tomorrow hopefully. If things don't go well with the battery contacts I guess I'll be talking to Ed. I know from reading here over the past year that he is the highest recommended option in this case.
Thanks guys,
Nate
EDIT - Checked the coolant level today and it was down about 1/2 a litre. Smelled the smokeshow and it smelled sweetish??, so I guess I have a coolant leak somewhere.
Also pulled the following codes:
p0341 - Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit range/performance (bank 1 or single sensor)
p0611 - Check web (checked and this is an FICM code...)
Its parked now and I need to wrap my head around it and what it might cost me to get it back on the road/in a condition where it can be sold. Had someone coming to look later this week
Smokeshow
Was -10 F at the time.
Thanks,
Nathaniel
I will check the contacts and bench test the alt tomorrow hopefully. If things don't go well with the battery contacts I guess I'll be talking to Ed. I know from reading here over the past year that he is the highest recommended option in this case.
Thanks guys,
Nate
EDIT - Checked the coolant level today and it was down about 1/2 a litre. Smelled the smokeshow and it smelled sweetish??, so I guess I have a coolant leak somewhere.
Also pulled the following codes:
p0341 - Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit range/performance (bank 1 or single sensor)
p0611 - Check web (checked and this is an FICM code...)
Its parked now and I need to wrap my head around it and what it might cost me to get it back on the road/in a condition where it can be sold. Had someone coming to look later this week
Smokeshow
Was -10 F at the time.
Thanks,
Nathaniel
#7042
12-08-2014, 09:18 AM
I see the garage open behind the truck, was it sitting outside? or Did you have it in your garage?
If you had it in the garage and moved it outside to warm the truck up, the PCM is working off of what it saw while the truck was in the garage. It will eventually adjust to the outside temperature and the smoke will clear, however, it will need a few minutes.
I would also have your alternator and batteries tested to make sure they're up to par as it could be one or the other causing the issue you're seeing. However, given that your FICM voltages are already dropping below 45 volts and lower, I'd suggest looking into a FICM halfshell as it needs to be repaired.
If your batteries are maintenance batteries, they may need to be topped off with distilled water and put on a slow charge. A word of advice because I've seen this happen: Pull the batteries from the truck and charge them. I was working on a '06 that the owner said had a crank/no start condition after replacing an injector. I advised that it would take a serious amount of cranking to start the truck, but he said it wouldn't crank long before the batteries gave out. They charged the batteries, but left them hooked up as they would be if they were about to start the truck. The charger showed 80%, but wouldn't budge from that at all. I pulled both batteries, charged them individually, and found that the driver side battery was almost completely dead. After charging both batteries individually, the truck turned over and fired as if nothing were wrong.
With regard to your alternator, I'd suggest looking at a local rebuilder as it sounds like it killed itself trying to charge the batteries, due to weak batteries or loose connections. Local rebuilders use quality parts and are better at making sure what leaves their shop won't be back anytime soon. I ran through 3 autozone alternators in 6 months before I finally took it to a rebuilder to have it permanently fixed. They cleaned it, tested it, replaced the regulator and I haven't seen much less that 13.7 volts and a regular 14-14.2 volts.
If you had it in the garage and moved it outside to warm the truck up, the PCM is working off of what it saw while the truck was in the garage. It will eventually adjust to the outside temperature and the smoke will clear, however, it will need a few minutes.
I would also have your alternator and batteries tested to make sure they're up to par as it could be one or the other causing the issue you're seeing. However, given that your FICM voltages are already dropping below 45 volts and lower, I'd suggest looking into a FICM halfshell as it needs to be repaired.
If your batteries are maintenance batteries, they may need to be topped off with distilled water and put on a slow charge. A word of advice because I've seen this happen: Pull the batteries from the truck and charge them. I was working on a '06 that the owner said had a crank/no start condition after replacing an injector. I advised that it would take a serious amount of cranking to start the truck, but he said it wouldn't crank long before the batteries gave out. They charged the batteries, but left them hooked up as they would be if they were about to start the truck. The charger showed 80%, but wouldn't budge from that at all. I pulled both batteries, charged them individually, and found that the driver side battery was almost completely dead. After charging both batteries individually, the truck turned over and fired as if nothing were wrong.
With regard to your alternator, I'd suggest looking at a local rebuilder as it sounds like it killed itself trying to charge the batteries, due to weak batteries or loose connections. Local rebuilders use quality parts and are better at making sure what leaves their shop won't be back anytime soon. I ran through 3 autozone alternators in 6 months before I finally took it to a rebuilder to have it permanently fixed. They cleaned it, tested it, replaced the regulator and I haven't seen much less that 13.7 volts and a regular 14-14.2 volts.
#7043
12-08-2014, 05:23 PM
#7044
12-08-2014, 05:30 PM
Drove over to the upholstery shop near me and dropped off my Grand Cherokee seat bottom to get part of a leather panel replaced. After a lengthy discussion about my truck, it may be getting leather front seating... POS 
State patrol was out in force today, so I behaved.
State patrol was out in force today, so I behaved.
#7045
12-08-2014, 07:43 PM
drove mine around, then went to walmart to look for a new locking diesel cap which i guess they don't stock anymore..on the way back out to the truck i noticed a middle aged lady struggling with some large furniture box so i asked if she needed help and put it in her car for her. did my random act of kindness for the day lol
Now im going to order a cap on amazon
Now im going to order a cap on amazon
#7048
12-08-2014, 10:32 PM
I have the XLT cloth, going to a leather kit from his supplier, two tone grey. Checking prices....
then add install. To custom build from scratch would be cost prohibitive. My Grand Cherokee panel repair was $120 for what I had done today. Jeep left out a crucial pad to protect from buckling, he fixed that.
#7049
12-08-2014, 11:50 PM
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I see the garage open behind the truck, was it sitting outside? or Did you have it in your garage?
If you had it in the garage and moved it outside to warm the truck up, the PCM is working off of what it saw while the truck was in the garage. It will eventually adjust to the outside temperature and the smoke will clear, however, it will need a few minutes.
I would also have your alternator and batteries tested to make sure they're up to par as it could be one or the other causing the issue you're seeing. However, given that your FICM voltages are already dropping below 45 volts and lower, I'd suggest looking into a FICM halfshell as it needs to be repaired.
If your batteries are maintenance batteries, they may need to be topped off with distilled water and put on a slow charge. A word of advice because I've seen this happen: Pull the batteries from the truck and charge them. I was working on a '06 that the owner said had a crank/no start condition after replacing an injector. I advised that it would take a serious amount of cranking to start the truck, but he said it wouldn't crank long before the batteries gave out. They charged the batteries, but left them hooked up as they would be if they were about to start the truck. The charger showed 80%, but wouldn't budge from that at all. I pulled both batteries, charged them individually, and found that the driver side battery was almost completely dead. After charging both batteries individually, the truck turned over and fired as if nothing were wrong.
With regard to your alternator, I'd suggest looking at a local rebuilder as it sounds like it killed itself trying to charge the batteries, due to weak batteries or loose connections. Local rebuilders use quality parts and are better at making sure what leaves their shop won't be back anytime soon. I ran through 3 autozone alternators in 6 months before I finally took it to a rebuilder to have it permanently fixed. They cleaned it, tested it, replaced the regulator and I haven't seen much less that 13.7 volts and a regular 14-14.2 volts.
If you had it in the garage and moved it outside to warm the truck up, the PCM is working off of what it saw while the truck was in the garage. It will eventually adjust to the outside temperature and the smoke will clear, however, it will need a few minutes.
I would also have your alternator and batteries tested to make sure they're up to par as it could be one or the other causing the issue you're seeing. However, given that your FICM voltages are already dropping below 45 volts and lower, I'd suggest looking into a FICM halfshell as it needs to be repaired.
If your batteries are maintenance batteries, they may need to be topped off with distilled water and put on a slow charge. A word of advice because I've seen this happen: Pull the batteries from the truck and charge them. I was working on a '06 that the owner said had a crank/no start condition after replacing an injector. I advised that it would take a serious amount of cranking to start the truck, but he said it wouldn't crank long before the batteries gave out. They charged the batteries, but left them hooked up as they would be if they were about to start the truck. The charger showed 80%, but wouldn't budge from that at all. I pulled both batteries, charged them individually, and found that the driver side battery was almost completely dead. After charging both batteries individually, the truck turned over and fired as if nothing were wrong.
With regard to your alternator, I'd suggest looking at a local rebuilder as it sounds like it killed itself trying to charge the batteries, due to weak batteries or loose connections. Local rebuilders use quality parts and are better at making sure what leaves their shop won't be back anytime soon. I ran through 3 autozone alternators in 6 months before I finally took it to a rebuilder to have it permanently fixed. They cleaned it, tested it, replaced the regulator and I haven't seen much less that 13.7 volts and a regular 14-14.2 volts.
With regards to the alternator, I turned off the seat heaters and voltage went back up to ~14-14.2. The FICM voltage also went to 46.5-48 rather consistently. I think? this points to the alternator maybe not putting out enough voltage to run everything. It is the middle of finals right now so I haven't had time to check the cables/alt in a more serious way. I will do so next week.
Once again, thanks for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Nate
#7050
12-09-2014, 08:26 AM
Thanks for the informative write-up sir. What you say about the PCM makes sense. While the garage is not heated, it is still ~45 while it was ~-10 F outside. Being paranoid of my non-bulletproof engine leads me to jump to cooler problems everytime it does something I'm not used to. I won't worry about the smoke anymore.
With regards to the alternator, I turned off the seat heaters and voltage went back up to ~14-14.2. The FICM voltage also went to 46.5-48 rather consistently. I think? this points to the alternator maybe not putting out enough voltage to run everything. It is the middle of finals right now so I haven't had time to check the cables/alt in a more serious way. I will do so next week.
Once again, thanks for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Nate
With regards to the alternator, I turned off the seat heaters and voltage went back up to ~14-14.2. The FICM voltage also went to 46.5-48 rather consistently. I think? this points to the alternator maybe not putting out enough voltage to run everything. It is the middle of finals right now so I haven't had time to check the cables/alt in a more serious way. I will do so next week.
Once again, thanks for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Nate
The heated seat pulls some serious amps to do what it does, but from the sound of things your alternator isn't able to keep up with the demand. (which isn't surprising for the 110 amp, not sure what Ford was thinking
) I wouldn't wait too long to check the battery cables and charging system as your FICM is giving you the warning signs of failure. Ford says if the FICM drops below 45 volts, it must be repaired, I say anything below 47 volts.
It won't take more than 10 minutes to inspect and clean the battery cables, saving you from a pre-mature FICM repair.