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Back when I was draining the HCFM every month (and saying under my breath that if I supervised the engineer who put the HFCM where it was I have him change those filters at a dealership for a year) I got motivated to move it. Wasn't that hard but you eat diesel while doing so. Took about 2 hours but I had the tank down at the time. It's so much easier behind the transfer case and I can't figure out why they didn't put it there in the first place.
id move mine where you did but id run into an issue of thats where the longer tank i want covers.. so id be even more SOL than where its at now being next to the driveshaft..
I'm fine with tank that came with the SC 8' bed, so I was good. The other thing I considered was just flipping to the outside of the rail, and while one could use rubber hose to flip the plumbing in the right direction I was concerned about exposure to debris out there. Says the guy who has a coolant filter in the wheel well.
I'm fine with tank that came with the SC 8' bed, so I was good. The other thing I considered was just flipping to the outside of the rail, and while one could use rubber hose to flip the plumbing in the right direction I was concerned about exposure to debris out there. Says the guy who has a coolant filter in the wheel well.
lol i got a gigantic crank case filter on the other side of the HFCM.. on the other side of the truck is the coolant filter... and in the driver side wheel well theres a power steering filter.. lol
im eventually upping my tank to 52 gal from the factory 29 gal it came with.. make for a longer span between fill ups lol...
Back when I was draining the HCFM every month (and saying under my breath that if I supervised the engineer who put the HFCM where it was I have him change those filters at a dealership for a year) I got motivated to move it. Wasn't that hard but you eat diesel while doing so. Took about 2 hours but I had the tank down at the time. It's so much easier behind the transfer case and I can't figure out why they didn't put it there in the first place.
Jack, if u don't mind me asking, what did u have to purchase to move it
I'm fine with tank that came with the SC 8' bed, so I was good. The other thing I considered was just flipping to the outside of the rail, and while one could use rubber hose to flip the plumbing in the right direction I was concerned about exposure to debris out there. Says the guy who has a coolant filter in the wheel well.
Funny you wrote that about moving it, because that was my exact thought: what would it take to move this thing, why the H*** is it here in the 1st place, and if it can be moved, how come you don't hear about it -- just folks complainin' about what a PITA it is...
At the time I had my tank down so I could run a stainless brake line down the rail and the truck was on a lift so it was a "while I'm here" moment.
I got a little nuts doing it, but I had access to resources. For the lines from the pump to the motor I extended them in stainless. For our work we had wholesale amounts of stainless compression fittings from Swagelok, available through McMaster as Yorlok. These are spendy but if you use compression fittings the fitting needs to be as hard as the tube you are compressing onto.
So I paired the lines heading up to the motor so I could keep the stock fittings at the HFCM, then installed stainless tubing to extend the lines to the back. For the tank lines as you can tell I just bought diesel rated hose and did away with the stock connections and lines out of the tank. The electric wires for the pump just had to be sliced longer, the splices soldered in and heat shrink covered. The wires to the HFCM come out as a harness so it's pretty easy to do that on a bench.
After taking the HFCM off the rail I put cardboard in its place and traced on the cardboard where the holes where. Where I mounted the HFCM I believe there already was one hole, so I just mounted the cardboard with a bolt to that existing hole, then drilled the other two. That's the way I remember it from when I did this. Maybe I had to drill all three.
You can drill into that section of the frame, it's the top and bottom legs of a C-channel that are the areas that carry the stress and should never be drilled without knowledge.
The cutting of those hard lines was the biggest PITA, both from getting to them and the diesel bath. And stainless doesn't like to be cut so it's either with a cutoff wheel or carbide saw blade, then grinding the burrs and cleaning the tubes.
If I had to do it over I would use more diesel rated hose to extend to the existing lines, using worm clamps to hold the hose to the tubing and existing HFCM nubs as I did on the tank side. I think the compression fittings probably would cost $60. You can see one just being hidden by the transfer case.
After doing that I actually was considering making up kits to do the relocation and selling them through my BIL auto parts company. I always thought that the way the 6.0L community buys coolant filters and the like having a HFCM relocation kit would be popular. Now when it comes time to drain for water or change the filter my biggest gripe is just getting under the truck. No fighting the driveshaft, reaching over it, thinking about if I should ever meet the designer .......
At that time I was active on another forum and wrote pictorials all the time. Some of those are in my Facebook page. To this day I can't figure out why I didn't do a pictorial for this at the time.
Apparently i havent shown the girl enough attention since i got the mustang as a daily! Got half way home yesterday and bam she got temperamental on me and #7 injector took a **** on me. Looks like a set of all 8 is in my future. Not really how i wanted to spend money at the moment while trying to buy a house.
You could always just do one or just do the bank. Of course, if you are looking to take the opportunity to go to something larger, that makes it harder to do fewer than eight. We could hook you up with OEM or aftermarket options if that helped.
I'll be driving mine home from the airport... been sitting there 27 days!
Next week Tuesday I'm going to harpoon a 2008 short bed tank and install that. 33 gallons will be a decent increase from the 29, since it doesn't fill all the way anyway. That should get me about a 6 gallon increase or so and a 600 mile range.
Thursday, I'm driving to New Hampshire, 1500 round trip.
600 miles? Damn, what are you getting for mpg? On my trip to Ohio I got 16.4 at 78mph. Was almost 600 miles on about 36 gallons of fuel
Today I played a little. Ever since getting the SCT tuner and 3 tunes from Gearhead, I've only used the 8k tune. So today I loaded the SRL. What a difference. Unbelievable. EGTS through the roof though so it's not staying.
On another note, I downloaded FORSCAN on the laptop. When I did and checked settings it automatically picked VCMII for a connection. So today I tried it and it worked. Zero lag and it communicated through the VCMII without issue. I like the graphing it provides with the different colors to break it up. The buzz test is handy too. If it could turn off contribution it would be the answer to the expensive Rotunda VCMII & IDS system Ford uses. You can get a free download for the pc at their website.
Here's a screen shot. Sorry about the glare.
At the time I had my tank down so I could run a stainless brake line down the rail and the truck was on a lift so it was a "while I'm here" moment.
I got a little nuts doing it, but I had access to resources. For the lines from the pump to the motor I extended them in stainless. For our work we had wholesale amounts of stainless compression fittings from Swagelok, available through McMaster as Yorlok. These are spendy but if you use compression fittings the fitting needs to be as hard as the tube you are compressing onto.
So I paired the lines heading up to the motor so I could keep the stock fittings at the HFCM, then installed stainless tubing to extend the lines to the back. For the tank lines as you can tell I just bought diesel rated hose and did away with the stock connections and lines out of the tank. The electric wires for the pump just had to be sliced longer, the splices soldered in and heat shrink covered. The wires to the HFCM come out as a harness so it's pretty easy to do that on a bench.
After taking the HFCM off the rail I put cardboard in its place and traced on the cardboard where the holes where. Where I mounted the HFCM I believe there already was one hole, so I just mounted the cardboard with a bolt to that existing hole, then drilled the other two. That's the way I remember it from when I did this. Maybe I had to drill all three.
You can drill into that section of the frame, it's the top and bottom legs of a C-channel that are the areas that carry the stress and should never be drilled without knowledge.
The cutting of those hard lines was the biggest PITA, both from getting to them and the diesel bath. And stainless doesn't like to be cut so it's either with a cutoff wheel or carbide saw blade, then grinding the burrs and cleaning the tubes.
If I had to do it over I would use more diesel rated hose to extend to the existing lines, using worm clamps to hold the hose to the tubing and existing HFCM nubs as I did on the tank side. I think the compression fittings probably would cost $60. You can see one just being hidden by the transfer case.
After doing that I actually was considering making up kits to do the relocation and selling them through my BIL auto parts company. I always thought that the way the 6.0L community buys coolant filters and the like having a HFCM relocation kit would be popular. Now when it comes time to drain for water or change the filter my biggest gripe is just getting under the truck. No fighting the driveshaft, reaching over it, thinking about if I should ever meet the designer .......
At that time I was active on another forum and wrote pictorials all the time. Some of those are in my Facebook page. To this day I can't figure out why I didn't do a pictorial for this at the time.
Jack, I would buy that kit in a New York (or Jersey) Minute!! Build it, and they will come...
I bypassed my AC with a smaller serpentine belt.. Just in time for summer! Can't wait until I can afford to really fix my AC.
That belt part # would be good to know for an emergency repair to get home. I had my a/c clutch pulley bearing fail once and throwing on that belt would made the rest of my trip less of a worry.
Do you know what belt you used?
it was 1075k6 which measures 108" on outside circumference. But I had to put a couple washers under the alternator to raise it up just a hair. The k6 stands for 6 groove. 1075 stands for a 107-1/2", but it's actually 108" on outside circumference. It's supposed to have a 8 groove belt on it but we don't have a gates dealer in town and I had to go with what I could find. But now that I have the size I was looking up gates belts and found one with the number 1079k8hd Gates. which measures 108.06" outside circumference. I'm gonna buy that one next if I have problems with the 6 groove and throw another washer under the alternator. sorry for the long answer to a short story. Hope that helps.
05-05-2016, 11:59 AM
