yup thats where i got mine.. hoses on mine were quite thick.. and were actual heater hoses.. the only difference i did to it was the T-fittings that came with my kit were plastic (think theyve since upgraded it to brass).. i went and bought brass ones as i dont trust plastic with heat.. probably would have worked fine.. but i like metal over plastic..

other thing i did different was they said to mount it horizontally as you can see i did it vertically. id rather use the whole filter to catch things than just half the filter.. Probably wouldnt have made a difference.. but thats just how my brain looked at it.

 

Sinister filter here. Been on sense April 2012.
No changes to it and still good.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Same here. Mine has been on about the same amount if not a bit longer.

 

Some pics for ya Sean. I don't know what exactly what you were looking for but here are some.

 

Now a few shots of the job results. This is the old seal. That's what I had by the time I got the axle pulled. It was pretty bad before that though. Flopped around like a fish on the river bank.





The new one.

 

All done and ready to put back together.

 

ive had my sinister coolant filter on since 2011 probably, and 61,000 miles on it

 

What did it take to put the smaller inside dust seal in place?
I see you use the brew it your self seal tool. Did it go easy?

In other news my project is going to be delayed thanks to the Post Office.
They crushed the box the parts were shipped in and lost 1 ball joint and
and one snap ring on the other one. The 2 lower came in good.

So this is what my parts list should of had.
2 lower ball joints
2 upper ball joints *** MIA 1 snap ring along with one full joint and snap ring.
2 knuckle seal sets
4 sets of pads
8 glow plugs
1 left glow plug harness
1 right glow plug harness

I talked to Kelsey at Ficmrepair and they are going to get things taken care of.
I thought while I had her on the phone I may as well add both upper and lower
nuts for the new ball joints along with new dust seals just in case.
She is going to get back to me after they let her know the price on the added parts.


Last night I was snooping around the front end and also spraying some Kroil
on the nuts and ball joints to make removal a tad bit easier and found that
the passenger side also has a grease zerk on the u-joint. If both joints feel
the least bit iffy I will do both while I am in there and save that pain for other things.

Now some questions for those of you that have done the ball joints. Do you happen to
know or recall the cotter pin size? Also can I get away with some cheesy tool to
remove the tie-rod ends and castor adjustment sleeve? The book said that I need
to remove it and clean all the contact surfaces. I understand why the cleaning. Just
wanted to save some $ for the other projects if I can get away with one tool for all the
smaller things in the job. But if I have to get it I will. Happen to find a new OTC
puller for $90.00

BTW I even cheched ouder the caps on the joints to see if the snap ring was there. No Love
Project delayed

The box set I got out of the bigger box with the end it was sitting in crushed and re-taped.


I think I have a hate/hate relationship with the Post Office. I know that I sure
don't love them in any way.

Thanks for the help.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

The small dust seal fits tight on the axle and just rides inside the axle tube. Probably the reason they eventually become useless.

The big seal takes some good hits but getting that on the axle isn't the hardest part. I think most difficult was getting the four nuts off that hold the bearing unit on. They are accessed from the back. I used a 7/8 deep socket a half inch ratchet and a rubber mallet. As you can see the large seal was no picnic either.

 

Looked like some of the large stainless steel squirrels got at it and chewed.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

crap i knew i forgot something today.. meant to go look for those cotter pins for ya sean.. now its too dark out there for me to see them..

 

I imagine it was all original. Some of it was stuck pretty tight. Actually most of it was stuck pretty tight. The hardest thing was the stupid snap ring you have to remove in behind the hub. Took an hour or more. My snap ring pliers are going to be replaced shortly.

 

I have 2 sets. I got the 2nd set aster Don said it worked better for him.
He had gotten the cheep Harbor Freight ones. In looking at some photos today
I can see where a straight set would be very handy.


How much work was it to get that castor adjuster out?

Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Well good for y'all, I drive the crap out of my truck and the hoses couldn't last with the rest of the truck.

I got my truck October 2013 between then and now I've put 64K on it running the roads of Texas. (mostly highway miles with my commute and roadtrips all over)

Hope things keep working out for y'all....

 

Looks like mine is headed to the shop to spend some time with an IDS. For the last few weeks (months some to think of it) I've noticed the truck shaking at 65-75 mph. I thought it was a brake caliper not releasing, but after some Praying it was revealed to me that it's an injector that's failing.

We'll see which one it is....