2wd Front Rotor Wheel Bearing Question
#1
2wd Front Rotor Wheel Bearing Question
Hi, I searched this SD forum but could not find a direct answer to my question. I'm picking up new front rotors for my 03 F350 dually. If I clean and inspect the old wheel bearings and don't see any problems, can I reuse them or is it much better to buy new bearings? I know the old bearings are worn into the races in the old rotors, so do I risk problems effectively giving them new races to ride on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Steve
Thanks in advance for your help.
Steve
#3
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: California High Desert
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I have been told in the past that wheel bearings and races are manufactured to be matched sets and that if you replace one you are supposed to replace the other. In fact when you put new bearings in you aren't supposed to mix up your new races and bearings and keep them matched up as as they were in the box. I don't know how accurate this is, but it makes sense to me. It actually brings up a question, can you even buy races by themselves? I always thought they were sold together and new rotor hubs came without races.
#4
#5
I just did this yesterday on my wife's trailblazer, Timkken is the way to go, IMO and Auto zone works for me, but stay away from the Duralast line.
#6
I don't have a superduty but the twin i beam system hasn't changed much from my truck to the super duty. I'd just get new bearings if your replacing the rotors. They are not much more price to add on. Also don't forget the seals either. My local napa store hooked me up with all the parts i needed.
#7
Thanks guys. I finished this last night. I put in a full new set of Timkens from Napa and everything is back together. I did almost forget the cotter pin on one side, my wife pointed out that little pin laying on the towel while I was hammering on the dust cap. She earned her date night with that one!
The new rotors came with races pressed in. The new bearings also came with races - and yes, you can buy just races because the outters came in seperate boxes. I did not want to press out the races in the new rotors to put in the ones that came with the bearings. I've never done that before and I guess if that was a bad thing then why would they put new races in the rotors anyway?
Incidentally, as I'm sure all of you have encountered, those brake caliper bracket bolts are really hard to get loose. Part of the issue is the rusted heads that required I hammer on the 13/16 socket, which then gets stuck and won't come back off. I used a 21MM 6 point socket instead, which still grips the head well enough but does not get lodged. That and a breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe did the trick. Try that if you get stuck.
The new rotors came with races pressed in. The new bearings also came with races - and yes, you can buy just races because the outters came in seperate boxes. I did not want to press out the races in the new rotors to put in the ones that came with the bearings. I've never done that before and I guess if that was a bad thing then why would they put new races in the rotors anyway?
Incidentally, as I'm sure all of you have encountered, those brake caliper bracket bolts are really hard to get loose. Part of the issue is the rusted heads that required I hammer on the 13/16 socket, which then gets stuck and won't come back off. I used a 21MM 6 point socket instead, which still grips the head well enough but does not get lodged. That and a breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe did the trick. Try that if you get stuck.
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#8
Join Date: Jul 2010
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The new rotors came with races pressed in. The new bearings also came with races - and yes, you can buy just races because the outters came in seperate boxes. I did not want to press out the races in the new rotors to put in the ones that came with the bearings. I've never done that before and I guess if that was a bad thing then why would they put new races in the rotors anyway?
#10
#11
Incidentally, as I'm sure all of you have encountered, those brake caliper bracket bolts are really hard to get loose. Part of the issue is the rusted heads that required I hammer on the 13/16 socket, which then gets stuck and won't come back off. I used a 21MM 6 point socket instead, which still grips the head well enough but does not get lodged. That and a breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe did the trick. Try that if you get stuck.
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