The rockers in the video are pedestal mount as well, (the other common mounting method is shaft mounted where the rockers all slide onto/ride on a common shaft down the length of the head. On shaft mounted rockers there is an adjustment on the the end of the rocker instead of in the center.) I think Ford used pedestal mounted rockers in all it's SB engines. The posilocks are just the fancy lash adjusting nuts. All hydraulic pedestal mount rockers are adjusted basically the same way as shown in the video the only difference is how you lock the adjuster/mounting nut.

OK, looking at the Crane Cams site and reading the instuctions, I see where your rocker preload are adjusted with the use of shims rather than with adjustable nuts. Did you check every rocker for the specified preload?

 

I called Crane and they stated that to get the correct preload (.020 - .060) after zero lash I should be able to turn the bolt 1/2 - 3/4 turn until the torque wrench reaches the correct torque which it went to 3/4 turn on every rocker. This is my first time working this much into the engine. I normally stick to the easier things like intake, carb, headers, etc. Beside changing out valve covers I've never fooled with any of the valve train so I am lost on this one.

 

Yeah, that video is for adjusting STUD mount rockers vs. your bolt-down pedestal mount rockers. I've got the same Crane manufactured Cobra rockers you've got for the engine I'm building for my truck. The adjustment procedure is completely different and is more or less a trial and error installation of shims underneath the pedestals. Here's a link to a decent instructional:

Adjusting Pedestal Mount Roller Rockers

 

I could be a smart butt and tell you that if you had a flathead you wouldn't have these issues. But that would be childish, so I'll refrain.

 

Some of the sbf engines have bolt-down rocker arms (I have one). You set up the lash by installing the lifters completely dry so that you can compress them by hand. You then check for the spec valve lash which is supposed to be something relatively fat...like 1/4 inch (check the book). If the lash is too far off, you can adjust with shims under the pedestals, or by using longer or shorter push rods. whatever the spec lash is will essentially have the core of the lifter near the center of its travel.

If you have already run the engine with the new lifters, they're full of oil and you won't be able to compress them by hand....there's a special lever tool for that.