Jcarrick's 1973 Ford Crewcab Long bed 4x4 12v Cummins Build
#46
#47
I pulled all the front suspension and steering out of the truck this weekend. I have a set of 2" lift super duty springs already to go in it. I will also be putting a 78 4x4 steering box, 70's-80's chevy link from steering box to the axle, and a new front crossmember with spring mounts. The Chevy links are adjustable unlike the Ford. There has been some serious hickin engineering on this front end that will most definitely get cleaned up. Here are some pics of what it looks like:
The rear spring hanger mounts are worn out so i will be replacing those. Do these look like stock ford mounts? Also, since the super duty springs are 9/16 bolts are there larger diameter mounts i should get or just drill these out? You can see they just used a torch to cut holes in the frame for them...
This leads to the spring length. The super duty springs are 2" longer than the stock springs were. I have plenty of room in the front to go forward with the mounts an inch or two and i can fill the holes in the frame and put the rears wherever i need to. Should i put the axle dead center in the middle of the wheel well or is there a measurement from the front of the frame back that i should position it?
Hopefully this thing will be back on the road in a few weeks.
The rear spring hanger mounts are worn out so i will be replacing those. Do these look like stock ford mounts? Also, since the super duty springs are 9/16 bolts are there larger diameter mounts i should get or just drill these out? You can see they just used a torch to cut holes in the frame for them...
This leads to the spring length. The super duty springs are 2" longer than the stock springs were. I have plenty of room in the front to go forward with the mounts an inch or two and i can fill the holes in the frame and put the rears wherever i need to. Should i put the axle dead center in the middle of the wheel well or is there a measurement from the front of the frame back that i should position it?
Hopefully this thing will be back on the road in a few weeks.
#48
#49
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: where the deer and antelo
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I had an interesting experience with fuel milage. I was doing about 65-67 with 4.10's and 35's. After 137 miles it got 13.7 miles a gallon exactly with lots of hard passing. I was not too happy about this so i decided to bring it down. I slowed my speed down to 59-62ish from Klamath Falls Oregon to Weed California which was 72 miles. At that speed and quite a bit of downhill i got 24.8mpg! I know this is not incredibly accurate due to the downhill and not very long distance, but it really showed that i need different gears.
-Jon
-Jon
I drove from Evanston WY to Cedar Rapids IA and back about 2 months after finishing my Cummins install, and about a week after installing the 3.54 gears. That many miles gives a guy a good idea of the mileage you can get.
P.S. great job on the conversion. I wish I could have done mine as fast as you.
#50
#51
The truck is now sitting on Super Duty 2" lift leaf springs. I kind of copied ChaseTruck and 1971Ford's crossmember designs. Here are a few pics of it:
Then i went to the local 4x4 shop that everybody hates to get u-bolts. I was told they were the only ones that would have them. I called them first and tried to ask if they have and 3" wide square u-bolts for a 70's ford and they assured me that they would have the right ones because they had hundreds of different bolts. Ok, so i go down there and sure enough they dont. The sell me 3" wide ones for a newer style ford that dont fit perfect but according to them if you tighten them down enough they will work fine. What do you guys think?
Now i fixed the suspension problem and everything was going great with the steering box mount until i held the box up to the frame again. I realized that the 78 4x4 box is not "long" enough to clear the 73 f350 frame rail. Here are are few pics to illustrate:
Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to go from here? Im thinking i will have to notch the bottom of the frame and box it now, but i really dont want to do that. Any ideas would be awesome. It would also be nice to know the height of a 77.5-79 4wd frame.
For my steering box mount i used 1/4" plate steel with more 1/4" strips welded onto it to brace it in the frame so that when it gets all tightened down the bolts dont pull the frame and new box section together. Here are some more crappy cell phones pics of this:
Then i went to the local 4x4 shop that everybody hates to get u-bolts. I was told they were the only ones that would have them. I called them first and tried to ask if they have and 3" wide square u-bolts for a 70's ford and they assured me that they would have the right ones because they had hundreds of different bolts. Ok, so i go down there and sure enough they dont. The sell me 3" wide ones for a newer style ford that dont fit perfect but according to them if you tighten them down enough they will work fine. What do you guys think?
Now i fixed the suspension problem and everything was going great with the steering box mount until i held the box up to the frame again. I realized that the 78 4x4 box is not "long" enough to clear the 73 f350 frame rail. Here are are few pics to illustrate:
Can anyone give me some advice on the best way to go from here? Im thinking i will have to notch the bottom of the frame and box it now, but i really dont want to do that. Any ideas would be awesome. It would also be nice to know the height of a 77.5-79 4wd frame.
For my steering box mount i used 1/4" plate steel with more 1/4" strips welded onto it to brace it in the frame so that when it gets all tightened down the bolts dont pull the frame and new box section together. Here are some more crappy cell phones pics of this:
#53
Ya, I thought it would just fit too. I put this up on another forum and one guy said his fit with less than an 1/8" clearance between the pitman arm and the frame and then another guy said you have to do a 1/4" section in the frame to make it fit... So as of right now I really don't know what to do, ha
#54
#57
#59
Hey guys,
Sorry for the lack of updates lately. The superduty spring swap and 78-79 steering box has been finished for quite a while now and is working flawlessly. The superduty spring upgrade makes a huge difference. These springs have a lot more rebound than the stock high boy springs.
I also put took the stock 131 diverter valves out and installed some 181's. These made a HUGE difference. It runs much smoother at lower cruising rpms, has A LOT more power, and fuels hard all the way to the governor. Before the fueling would taper off a lot on the top end, but now i have all the fuel i need all the way to redline. Very well worth it.
Right now i am trying to get the truck ready to go on a trip from Bend, OR to Mexico and back to build houses. The biggest thing i need to do is setup the rear shocks. The Dana 70 thats in it is obviously not the original axle because the shock mounts on it are not even close to lining up with the factory mounts. My question is, can anyone put up some pics or give me some suggestions on how to setup the axle shock mounts? Right now im thinking i will just weld tabs on the axle to line up with the frame mounts and then once i swap in a newer limited slip axle i will build a shock mount bar on the frame and do it up real nice.
Also, any other recommendations on things to do on this thing in preparation for the long trip?
Thanks
Sorry for the lack of updates lately. The superduty spring swap and 78-79 steering box has been finished for quite a while now and is working flawlessly. The superduty spring upgrade makes a huge difference. These springs have a lot more rebound than the stock high boy springs.
I also put took the stock 131 diverter valves out and installed some 181's. These made a HUGE difference. It runs much smoother at lower cruising rpms, has A LOT more power, and fuels hard all the way to the governor. Before the fueling would taper off a lot on the top end, but now i have all the fuel i need all the way to redline. Very well worth it.
Right now i am trying to get the truck ready to go on a trip from Bend, OR to Mexico and back to build houses. The biggest thing i need to do is setup the rear shocks. The Dana 70 thats in it is obviously not the original axle because the shock mounts on it are not even close to lining up with the factory mounts. My question is, can anyone put up some pics or give me some suggestions on how to setup the axle shock mounts? Right now im thinking i will just weld tabs on the axle to line up with the frame mounts and then once i swap in a newer limited slip axle i will build a shock mount bar on the frame and do it up real nice.
Also, any other recommendations on things to do on this thing in preparation for the long trip?
Thanks
#60
you can weld tabs on the axle, or places like ruffstuff sell specific tabs for this too.
Where are you headed to in Mex? Any way you go that's a bit of a drive. My in-laws are finishing up their drive from Bend to So. Cal. currently and it's about 15 hours. It'll be close to 20 hours of driving depending on where in Mex you end up. Good luck!
Where are you headed to in Mex? Any way you go that's a bit of a drive. My in-laws are finishing up their drive from Bend to So. Cal. currently and it's about 15 hours. It'll be close to 20 hours of driving depending on where in Mex you end up. Good luck!