Want to start off by saying I am a long time reader and appreciate all the excellent info on this site.

I have a 2004 F350, early build date with 140K miles. About 4 months ago, I started to get a random skipping or misfire when I got off the highway, not every time but maybe once a week. After a month or so, it started to happen more frequently. I kept checking for codes and nothing was coming up. Two weeks ago, I drove about 20 miles on the highway and when I got off truck was shaking pretty bad and would barely come up off idle. Let it sit for 30 mins while I was in the store and came back out to the same thing. After a few mins of driving, it cleared up and drove fine the rest of the day. I had 2 codes when I got back to the shop, cylinder contribution balance fault for cylinder 1 and 8. I cleared the codes and truck ran fine for a week and the codes did not return.

Last week code came back for cylinder 1. While I was reading about this issue, I found out I should check the alternator and batteries. Alternator was only keeping truck at 11.5v-idle and 12.5v-highway. Replaced the alternator and batteries and truck ran perfect for almost a week.

Today, truck started to skip again and codes came up for P0263 (cylinder contribution balance fault for cylinder 1), P0611 (injection control module perform) and P0528 (fan spd sensor cut no signal).

I have tested the fuel pressure and it reads 48psi at idle, cruising and WOT. I am not sure if that is high enough but thought it would have fluctuated more than it did. The batteries are now at 13.5v-idle and 14.2v driving. Using the snap-on brick, all 8 injectors check out fine and the FICM reads 48.2v.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, I have no idea where to go from here and do not want to just start throwing parts at it. I have the blue spring mod on order and should be getting it tomorrow.

Again, thanks everyone for the help and info on the site. This place is a life saver.

 

Your FICM voltage needs to be 45v or higher throughout the cold start process (waiting for glows, during cranking, and after the engine fires up) after an overnight cold soak. Your P0611 points directly at a failing FICM.

Your truck would be the first I've heard of that holds the same fuel pressure from idle to WOT, so I think something with your fuel pressure reading device may be amiss.

Also... the early 6.0 ICP sensor mounted in the HPOP cover under the turbo is a common issue. Check yours to see if it's oily on the outside or inside the plug-in. If so, an ICP sensor and pigtail connector may fix your miss.

 

Nick,
You may want to read my thread, "What's killing my batteries Part2". I have had and still having the same problems.
Have had most of the codes you have if not all. You may have a short to ground wire OR you may have a bad ground connection. I have found 1) a hole in the CAC boot coming from the turbo to the CAC tube(have you heard a "whistle" when under throddle?). After replacing the boot I have not had a PO263 code. I have the PO528 code(fan speed sensor malfunction) and am in the process of checking the harness from the sensor to the FICM. I am only getting 12.5 VDC from a FICM test so my problem is advanced from yours. My batts check out good(they are also new) and my alt shows 13.7VDC at idle. I am looking at the typical chaf areas around the oil filter canister, the valve cover on the driver side. I will move back to the FICM plugs next and then to the ground connections. I have replaced the IPR pigtail(it was fried), the CAC boot and t-stat(it fell apart when I removed it). I have discovered that this is going to take time but not much change. There are some great comments on my thread, very knowledgable people on FTE. Also, I have early 04 build 250, FX4. DO NOT GET DISCOURGED. Get a good cushion and plan to set on the rad for extended periods of time checking the harness'. REmember, mind over metal=mind wins every time.
Good luck and God Bless
Eagle in MS

 

I hooked up a scangaugeII to day and the ficm voltage stays between 47.5v - 50.0v. Not sure how accurate the scangauge is but numbers seem good.

When you pin the throttle, the fuel pressure gauge would dip a lb or 2 but come right back. It is only a $50 gauge and had to connect it with a 1/8"x18" hydraulic line but thought it would be pretty accurate. The one thing that concerns me is that every one has said the fuel pressure should be up closer to 55psi and 65psi if the blue spring mod had been done, which I have not done yet.

I replaced the HPOP and ICP in the fall, about 6k miles ago and the sensor and connector are clean and dry.

 

The blue spring mod is about as easy as the high idle mod. If you get the kit without the cover, it's like $32 and well worth it to make sure you don't have any problems with the fuel pressure.

 

Eagle, I read both of your threads prior to posting mine and you are right - tons of very smart and helpful people on this site. I have checked all sorts of grounds and electrical connectors with this problem and when my truck stalled driving down the road and ended up being the HPOP. Hood dome light is disconnected on mine too for the same reason but I never noticed a FICM voltage drop because of it like you did.

IPR% is under 25% when up to operating temp.
FICM voltage is between 47.5v - 50.0v when cold and hot.
Injectors pass contribution test on scan tool.
Fuel pressure is 48psi.

I am loosing my mind driving a truck I have put so much time and money into and cannot rely on it.