bipolar shifting E4OD
#1
bipolar shifting E4OD
hello all! I have an issue hopefully someone could help me with. My transmission has been acting. here are the symptoms i have been experiencing.
1.Transmission will sometimes shift rock hard, and other times, softer than a baby's bottom
2.It almost seems like the transmission gets stuck between 2nd and 3rd gear. it happens more consistently when it is cold. it will act like a 5 speed transmission. When its at operating temperature, this only happens when i accelerate slowly.
3.The shift from 2nd to 3rd is incredibly long and soft (besides when it shifts rock hard)
4.If im in 2nd gear and I put the pedal down, it seems to drop like half a gear (I dont even know if this is possible, its just the best way i could describe it).
It is an E4OD transmission. new fluid and filter. could this be a bad MLP sensor? Hopefully it is not a big issue or nothing that will require. I love my old girl and dont want to retire her But with only 90,XXX miles, i dont think ill have to. If i left anything out, or if you have any questions, I'll cooperate as much as possible.
all help appreciated! thanks a lot!
1.Transmission will sometimes shift rock hard, and other times, softer than a baby's bottom
2.It almost seems like the transmission gets stuck between 2nd and 3rd gear. it happens more consistently when it is cold. it will act like a 5 speed transmission. When its at operating temperature, this only happens when i accelerate slowly.
3.The shift from 2nd to 3rd is incredibly long and soft (besides when it shifts rock hard)
4.If im in 2nd gear and I put the pedal down, it seems to drop like half a gear (I dont even know if this is possible, its just the best way i could describe it).
It is an E4OD transmission. new fluid and filter. could this be a bad MLP sensor? Hopefully it is not a big issue or nothing that will require. I love my old girl and dont want to retire her But with only 90,XXX miles, i dont think ill have to. If i left anything out, or if you have any questions, I'll cooperate as much as possible.
all help appreciated! thanks a lot!
#7
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#8
unfortunatly that year e4od was issue ****. that tranny got a bunch of upgrades in 93+. since you have such low miles on the truck i suggest you find a low mileage e4od out of another truck or bronco from 93 and up.
who did the fluid/filter change? have you checked to make sure you have enough fluid? the code you got signals exactly what your issue is and why your having trouble.
what size tires are you running?
who did the fluid/filter change? have you checked to make sure you have enough fluid? the code you got signals exactly what your issue is and why your having trouble.
what size tires are you running?
#10
Join Date: Jul 2006
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what your describing as a semi shift isn't a gear change at all.your converter is slow to engage,doesn't,and or sometimes unlocks.
what you want to do for starters is to inspect your solenoid pack plug.it's down on the pass side,about mid way.located behind a metal shield that will need to come off first.
take a look at it.do you see any bare wires? if so.then you need to repair the plug or replace it.if you don't see any bare wires,then unplug it from the trans,clean it up real good with brake cleaner and apply dialectic grease.plug it back in and see if the converter locks/unlocks when it's supposed to.
a bad boo switch,or some other faulty wire to your brakes could cause the pcm to receive a signal that the brakes are applied and unlock/prevent your converter from locking too.
the convertor clutch solenoid in the pack could also be bad.
on my diesel,i had a failed tps frigging with my lockup and the pcm grabbed the code for slip of course,but it missed the failed tps which caused the converter slip.
like you,with low miles.i ruled out mechanical failure and went on the hunt for electrical gremlins first thing.less than 50 bucks,my E40D is back providing love that i give to her.
if none of this helps,post back and we can help you test the solenoid to see if it has the proper resistance.
what you want to do for starters is to inspect your solenoid pack plug.it's down on the pass side,about mid way.located behind a metal shield that will need to come off first.
take a look at it.do you see any bare wires? if so.then you need to repair the plug or replace it.if you don't see any bare wires,then unplug it from the trans,clean it up real good with brake cleaner and apply dialectic grease.plug it back in and see if the converter locks/unlocks when it's supposed to.
a bad boo switch,or some other faulty wire to your brakes could cause the pcm to receive a signal that the brakes are applied and unlock/prevent your converter from locking too.
the convertor clutch solenoid in the pack could also be bad.
on my diesel,i had a failed tps frigging with my lockup and the pcm grabbed the code for slip of course,but it missed the failed tps which caused the converter slip.
like you,with low miles.i ruled out mechanical failure and went on the hunt for electrical gremlins first thing.less than 50 bucks,my E40D is back providing love that i give to her.
if none of this helps,post back and we can help you test the solenoid to see if it has the proper resistance.
#11
#12
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http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...0Swap/2361.jpg
thats the solenoid pack plug there (found pic posted here someplace.)
this is what the body looks like inside the trans;
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...enoid-body.jpg
if the solenoids have failed,or the communication through the wires to the pcm (the brain that controls the trans) have failed,then your trans cannot function properly.
so your primary objective,is to insure the CCC is good,and its properly communicating with the pcm.if it's not,then the pcm will store the code for excessive converter clutch slip and go into limp/safety mode (when the od light flashes,and she gets her firm shifts) telling you what you already feel is going on anyway. you'll have to figure out why.simply guessing an assuming its a failed mechanical converter would be the costly way to go about it,because if that's not it,then a brand new converter sitting in there will act the same way anyway.
if it comes to it,you'll need to probe the pin of the wire going to the CCC which is the purple with yellow stripe.this solenoid should have a resistance reading of 20 ohms - if i remember that right.you'd want to google that for verification should you need...........ah,what the heck.iv gone this far. i did it for ya:
EPC Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect negative lead of ohmmeter to the electronic pressure control (EPC) jack.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the vehicle power (VPWR) jack.
> Record resistance.
> Refer to the following charts for values.
If out of specification, refer to �Pinpoint Test E� in this Section.
Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, Coast Clutch Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the appropriate vehicle power (VPWR) jack for the solenoid being tested.
> Connect negative lead of the ohmmeter to the appropriate solenoid (shift solenoid 1 [SS1], shift solenoid 2 [SS2], torque converter solenoid [TCC], coast clutch solenoid [CCC]) jack and record resistance.
Refer to following charts for values.
If out of specification, refer to �Pinpoint Test A� (Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2); �Pinpoint Test C� (Torque Converter Solenoid), Pinpoint Test G (Coast Clutch Solenoid).
Transmission Application E4OD : Solenoid Resistance (Ohms)
Shift Solenoid 1 : 20-30
Shift Solenoid 2 : 20-30
Torque Converter Solenoid : 20-30
Coast Clutch Solenoid : 20-30
Electronic Pressure Control : 4.0-6.5"
thats the solenoid pack plug there (found pic posted here someplace.)
this is what the body looks like inside the trans;
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...enoid-body.jpg
if the solenoids have failed,or the communication through the wires to the pcm (the brain that controls the trans) have failed,then your trans cannot function properly.
so your primary objective,is to insure the CCC is good,and its properly communicating with the pcm.if it's not,then the pcm will store the code for excessive converter clutch slip and go into limp/safety mode (when the od light flashes,and she gets her firm shifts) telling you what you already feel is going on anyway. you'll have to figure out why.simply guessing an assuming its a failed mechanical converter would be the costly way to go about it,because if that's not it,then a brand new converter sitting in there will act the same way anyway.
if it comes to it,you'll need to probe the pin of the wire going to the CCC which is the purple with yellow stripe.this solenoid should have a resistance reading of 20 ohms - if i remember that right.you'd want to google that for verification should you need...........ah,what the heck.iv gone this far. i did it for ya:
EPC Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect negative lead of ohmmeter to the electronic pressure control (EPC) jack.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the vehicle power (VPWR) jack.
> Record resistance.
> Refer to the following charts for values.
If out of specification, refer to �Pinpoint Test E� in this Section.
Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, Coast Clutch Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the appropriate vehicle power (VPWR) jack for the solenoid being tested.
> Connect negative lead of the ohmmeter to the appropriate solenoid (shift solenoid 1 [SS1], shift solenoid 2 [SS2], torque converter solenoid [TCC], coast clutch solenoid [CCC]) jack and record resistance.
Refer to following charts for values.
If out of specification, refer to �Pinpoint Test A� (Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2); �Pinpoint Test C� (Torque Converter Solenoid), Pinpoint Test G (Coast Clutch Solenoid).
Transmission Application E4OD : Solenoid Resistance (Ohms)
Shift Solenoid 1 : 20-30
Shift Solenoid 2 : 20-30
Torque Converter Solenoid : 20-30
Coast Clutch Solenoid : 20-30
Electronic Pressure Control : 4.0-6.5"
#14
Join Date: Jul 2006
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i wouldn't be driving her at all.if your lucky and it's something simple,then it's a small easy repair.if you keep driving it,the extra heat could damage the trans.if it is a mechanically failed converter,you still have a chance to flush the system,get a replacement in there before it self destructs and takes the rest of the trans with it.
this is what happens when you don't catch 'em in time:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...some-pics.html
do your wallet a huge favor.when anything act's up with the E40D,consider the truck broken down until you repair it.you'll be thankful you did.
this is what happens when you don't catch 'em in time:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...some-pics.html
do your wallet a huge favor.when anything act's up with the E40D,consider the truck broken down until you repair it.you'll be thankful you did.