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I have two issues to deal with I hope y'all don't mind me combining topics.
#1 ...LEAKY OIL PAN Appears as though my oil pan is leaky, especially around the crank. Question is have any of you pulled the pan to replace the gasket WITHOUT lifting or removing the engine. I'm afraid I'll drop the pan and not have enough clearance to remove it, where it will hang up on the crank shaft. Way I see it better to find out now instead of later.
#2 ... Rear window motor The motor isn't working. Took a test light to the wires and there's juice to the wires as far back as I can test. My guess is some mice got in there before I got it and chewed the wires. How do you drop the rear glass to get at everything (windows up) and how do you remove the motor? I can't see into the window well enough to know what to do.
For the first one, it sounds like it cold be the rear/front main seal. If you have any sort of suspension lift then it will be easier but without it it may be difficult to get the pan down. A way to get around it would be to use a frame jack and let the suspension travel down ward then pull the pan.
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1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT *The Green Machine* 351Mutant§35x12.5R15§3" Body lift§
1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle *Kaput* 1600CC Dual Port§Lots of rust§ Name's Dylan, Don't Wear it Out!
Im in the same boat except on my 95, gotta replace the whole pan. Ive read and had people tell me you have to take the engine out but then some people say no you just have to jack the engine up about 2-4 inches
Id try what Gruesome said, if it works post the outcome..
It's a 351W, the thing only has 31k original miles so I'm trying to make it as new as I can, and well sick of it dripping oil on the garage floor. I 'm sure I can lift it one way or another but I suppose the engine hoist is out. Anyway I got a one piece gasket for the whole pan, appreciate all insights thanks
Well now wait a tick, the hoist isn't out completely, if ya didn't have a frame jack and don't want to jack up the motor, you could... Maybe get some long chains and wrap them too the frame rails beside the engine and lift it, possibly It would be a better idea than my frame jack:
A big floor jack atop a slab of wood with an uneven cinder block thing under it. I will say it worked well but i wouldn't trust it to hold the entire weight of the frame. Being that i was in gravel and my step-dads car was in front of our hoist, that was not an option.
__________________
1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT *The Green Machine* 351Mutant§35x12.5R15§3" Body lift§
1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle *Kaput* 1600CC Dual Port§Lots of rust§ Name's Dylan, Don't Wear it Out!
Ive got 2 ton stands so I think im gonna try that and get it high enough that the tires aren't hitting the ground, im getting sick of checking the oil alot to make sure its not low, I think between each oil change I have to put in another quart.
It would be nice if just jacking the frame up would create enough clearance, but I'm thinking that frame cross member would still be too low to let the pan slide out under the crank, that's w/o seeing how low the crank hangs of course. Getting those bots on and off will of course be irritating butjust knowing if that bugger will slide out...
Jacking up the frame isnt going to help you other than giving you more room to actually crawl under the truck. The cross member that is in the way of the oil pan, that prevents you from dropping the oil pan completely is still bolted to the frame of which you are jacking. So when you jack the frame, you jack the cross member... of which the motor mounts are attached too. Which oddly enough hold the motor directly over top of the cross member. Viscous cycle , I know.
Unbolt the motor mount bolts from the cross member. Remove the fan shroud. Jack the motor up and slide blocks of wood between the motor mounts and the cross member, lower the jack. Remove the oil pan bolts. Drop the pan down to the cross member. reach in and remove the oil pump pick up, drop it in the pan. Slide pan out..... Have fun
__________________ I'd rather be hated for who I am, than be liked for what I'm not ! 1989 Bronco XLT 5.0
Im going through the same thing with mine and I asked in the 5.0 forum about it. The answer I got was basically If you are carbed all you have to do it remove the shroud so when you raise the motor the fan dosent hit the shroud. You may or may not need to remove the hoses. If you have EFI you may have to remove the upper intake cause it may hit the firewall when you lift the motor. You shouldnt have to remove the cross member at all if the motor is supported high enough.
Im going back at mine this weekend and Im going to attempt to do it without removing the intake or hoses.
__________________ I'd rather be hated for who I am, than be liked for what I'm not ! 1989 Bronco XLT 5.0
Other thing maybe to consider here is if you have to loosen up the tranny bolts holding it to it's support. I wonder if jacking it up 3 or 4 inches is a little to much stress to put on it. I was thinkng I'd have to lift the vehicle up so the front stabilizer bar drops some, I imagined sliding the pan forward and not having quite enough clearance to get it out w/o having that in the way.
I have never taken an oil pan off so i don't know what it entails. but it seems like more work than i thought... Makes me not want to pull my pan now.
__________________
1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT *The Green Machine* 351Mutant§35x12.5R15§3" Body lift§
1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle *Kaput* 1600CC Dual Port§Lots of rust§ Name's Dylan, Don't Wear it Out!
You know, the one thing i didn't think about was the year of truck, if it has the TTB suspension in the front it will have to go out the back right?
__________________
1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT *The Green Machine* 351Mutant§35x12.5R15§3" Body lift§
1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle *Kaput* 1600CC Dual Port§Lots of rust§ Name's Dylan, Don't Wear it Out!
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It would be a better idea than my frame jack:
