Hey guys - I did a quick search but didn't find anything that helps...

I am "this" close to pulling the trigger on buying a 1995 F150 XL 4x4 with a 300 I-6 and a 5-speed. I assume without running the VIN that this is the Mazda trans. The truck is in good shape especially for the price (typical case for a 4x4 in the northeast in the winter even though we have gotten almost NO snow). BUT here is the catch...the clutch will not disengage and the pedal is glued to the floor. The truck can be driven if started in gear and shifted without the clutch. My question is has this ever happened to anyone before, if so what was the problem? What should I expect here? Any ideas of what it could be? I work for a Ford dealer so I have no problem doing the work/having the work done I just don't want to find myself "in too deep" once I own the truck. I am really excited about the truck because it is a nice, simple truck with the drivetrain I really wanted. I want to call and leave the guy a deposit but am hesitating until I am more sure that it is something that can be fixed relatively easily.

Thanks!!!

 

First check clutch fluid. If empty, fill and bleed the system. If its full, it is most likely the clutch master cylinder, hydro line, or slave cylinder that is bad. I believe the slave is an external unit. No biggie to change. You can try to climb under, locate the clutch fork coming out of the trans, take a cresent wrench and close it down on the end right next to the slave cylinder pushrod, and push on the fork. That will tell you if the fork itself is okay, and you should be able to engage the clutch and feel it spring back. Dont forget to block the wheels so you dont get ran over. Good luck buddy.

 

Hey thanks for that quick reply! You said basically everything that I had been thinking about the entire time, which is a good thing. Even though I kinda knew what the problem was, I continued to second guess myself and bring out the 'what if' scenarios. Looks like I will add Ford Truck #11 to my list!

 

I believe that would be an internal slave cyl, so if thats whats wrong you'll need to pull the trans to repair it. It could be as simple as the MC pushrod coming off of the pedal assy. It is located above the gas pedal

 

Correct. It sits inside the bell housing concentric to the input shaft.

Ditto on checking for leaks seeing how the system is almost entirely hydraulic.

Also, if you're not familiar with the Mazda 5-speed, you should read up here about it's most fatal flaw:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...e_Measure.html

Check these plugs when you see the truck. If they're leaking, get this done ASAP. I learned about this one the hard way and ended up having to buy a rebuilt tranny.

Mike

 

I was afraid that it was an internal slave, but no big deal. The seller is a used car wholesaler who is trying to just blow it out because he says that when he originally made the deal to buy it from the new Ford dealer where it was traded in, it was working fine...however when he went to actually pick up the truck he found it like this. I can get the truck for $1100...it's probably a $2-2200 truck around these parts with the clutch working properly...it's not perfect by any stretch but a very decent 4x4. I'd say he is probably making about $400 on the deal at $1100 but hey we all have to make a living so that sort of thing doesn't bother me!

 

Check the clutch push rod from the pedal crank to the clutch master cylinder. Its above the gas pedal. Very common for the plastic bushing to fail. Mine failed and the clutch stayed on the floor. The push rod comes with the MC and as far as I know is not sold seperately since it is retained in the MC with a clip. I got mine from a JY and its lasted two years now.
regards
rikard

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said.

Along the same lines, open the hood and check that the plate between the firewall and the brake/ clutch cylinders isn't seperated from the firewall itself. If it is, that means that the pushrod isn't long enough to actuate the entire stroke of the cylinder, so you would have to unbend the firewall or use a custom pushrod that's longer than the stock one.

My boss' truck has a bent firewall and 3 different mechanics before me replaced the entire clutch system to no avail. I bled it out perfectly and it still didn't disengage, so I tried the custom pushrod I have in my DD and it drove like a charm. Bent firewall and worn bushing were found to be the cause.

It is a very common problem.

 

So to be clear, the spring tension on the clutch pedal itself is what keeps it down if the rod becomes disconnected due to a bad bushing, correct? Man if it's that easy, this truck could be a great buy. I will be trying to get there either tomorrow or Tuesday after work to check it out more closely.

 

Just re-read your OP and I'm still not sure what you mean by "glued to the floor". Do you mean you can't get it up (lol, I know) or that it stays on the floor but you can still get it up?

If you CAN get it up, that's probably the bushing. There is a big, fat spring that rides on a cam the pedal shaft has on it, and that holds the pedal down if the rod is disconnected. If that's the case, replace the bushing and you're good to go. Alternatively, you could do one better and drill the stud for a cotter pin so it doesn't keep falling off.

If the pedal is LITERALLY glued to the floor, I guess your only shot would be some tough solvent and maybe cutting a piece of the rug out. Don't have too much advice for ya there.

 

Correct, you should be able to lift the pedal by hand and it will stay up, Its possible that it has a slow enough hydralic leakthat if you refill itthen pump the pedal by hand it will self bleed and be driveable, until the fluid gets low enough to suck air in the MC.

 

Honestly, I have not been inside the truck yet. That was to take place yesterday but the guy got tied up and couldn't meet me. The clutch pedal stays down on the floor though. When I get over there tomorrow or Tuesday I will see if I can pull the pedal up or if it is stuck down.

 

Sweet. Let us know how it goes!