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  #1  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:43 PM
oregon60 oregon60 is offline
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Need Voltage Regulator Help!!

So, Here is my problem and where I am with it so far... Yesterday drove home from work in my daily driver 60 f100 like normal. Truck ran fine, had an errand to run about 1/2 hour later and when I started her up the gen light wouldn't turn off as it usually does. Cancelled errand and first tested the battery and it was fine. Checked my grounds and they seemed fine also, Took the cover off of the regulator and noticed the cutout relay wasn't closed, then i noticed when i pushed it to close the GEN light went off , Then tested generator at arm post on regulator and it was fine also. I did these tests with a voltmeter. When I manually close the cutout relay the batteries volts raise with acceleration as well like I think they are supposed to. The confusing thing at this point is why when I turn the engine off the cutout relay opens and will not close automatically as I assume it has done before. From my studying I thought the initial 12v charge from the battery would close the cutout relay? Is it an adjustment or replacement issue? Also the generator and regulator were replaced 4 years ago and less than 10,000 miles ago.? What would cause this to suddenly fail out of nowhere? Any tips or help would be very appreciated for I am not very experienced mechanically. Sorry about the rambling post
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:20 AM
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My very untechnician-like solution would be to replace the inexpensive voltage regulator.

Beyond that, I would replace the generator with a (cringe!!!!) GM one-wire alternator.

I'm really,really sorry you had to hear me say that,hope I never do again.The fact is,it is a very easy,long-term solution that will save you headaches.You'll need to either purchase an alternator mount,or fab one yourself.

Here are a few threads about the topic,including using a Ford alternator:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/56...lternator.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...altrnator.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/79...confusion.html

I believe you can't use the search function till you have 25 posts (there are many threads in FTE's archives on the topic), that's why I provided a few links to get you going.What I couldn't find was the thread showing you how to build your own aletrnator mount , using the generator brackets.Sorry

I did the GM 1-wire conversion, am happy albeit with a few caveats: a) I desecrated my truck by installing a GM part in it b) the idiot light doesn't function in this set-up.

In hindsight,I would spend the extra money and do the Ford 1-wire conversion,which allows the idiot light to work - if money is no issue.

I keep telling myself I'll correct it someday.Till then,I live a life of shame and regret!!!

Good luck,
Steve
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2012, 10:14 AM
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You pretty much know where your problem is. Check the connection/voltage to the post closing that relay. Four years is a long time anymore, usually lucky if they work brand new. There should be an electronic replacement regulator for your application. Make sure regulator mounting base is getting a good ground.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:18 AM
oregon60 oregon60 is offline
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When i check the voltage to that post do you think it has to be above the 12.5v or so the battery puts out? I think it is supposed to close with 12 v put to it from what i have read? So Is this part adjustable? Its just I really don't have too much money to put towards it(gas is enough these days) and i need it to be driving asap. So I am stuck between try and put a new one on 50-60 bucks it seems, or take it to somebody? Or will that somebody(mechanic) probably just replace that part which I should then just try and replace myself? Not sure where I am on the alternator conversion yet as I have heard good sounding points both ways but in no way am I committed to having a gen/reg system? And until now I thought I was good in that area for the time being. Thanks for the replies and again I am just trying to determine my cheapest route and just didn't want to replace a part if it wasn't salvageable...
Thanks Again!
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:21 AM
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one other thing?

I forgot this......Is it ok to manually connect the cutout knowing it disconnects when the vehicle is turned off and drive it? Or is this or could this be damaging?? I need to use the truck today and tomorrow and wondering if its possible until I fix it? Thanks
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:26 AM
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If you were closer,I'd just give you the regulator that I removed.

I think you can do better than 50-60 for a regulator.Nevertheless, how much time, gas, and energy have you spent pissing around with it already?Any place you take it to will likely charge you that much to repair/ adjust it.

You do have the factory manual,don't you?Most likely, the proper testing/adjusting procedures are in it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:47 AM
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Ok, right now and no money. I'd take a jumper wire and connect to pos batt term, touch term that closes relay to see if it closes. If it does, look for reasons it's not getting voltage required. Clean all connections including mount to firewall, fender or wherever it's mounted. The fact that it stays closed indicates it's getting some voltage at least. You may have a manual adjustment to control how much force it takes to close it. Corrosion, dirt, etc. could also be hindering it. It's just been too many years since I've been inside one. Good luck, I despise replacing parts till I prove them bad.
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:29 PM
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Thanks guys for all the advice! Found a replacement at local auto parts store for 35, but first I am gonna give a try to the jumper wire idea. I know from reading up on it there are adjustments that are temperature specific it just seems a little intimidating. Also I was wondering about the other current and voltage limiters working right.. I am gonna give it a go. I have most of a day, if I get nowhere I guess I will get a replacement .. Thanks again
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:45 PM
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Frustrated and confused

Well put in the new regulator and no success..... Frustrated.. So with the new regulator ,cut out relay won't connect when truck is started just like before.?. Gen light still on before I manually close the relay I only get a 2-3 volt reading at the regulator post both arm and field. Close it and volts raise to match the batt at around 12.5 or so ,while it's closed and light goes off. Volts rise at batt, arm and field posts when rpms raise only when cutout is closed..? It was getting dark as I was doing this and I noticed sparks in the generator as I advanced the throttle so I turned it off..? Now I am thinking going to an alternator. But only cause I need the vehicle and it almost seems easier at this point , having spent so much time figuring out the gen/ reg stuff only to have not isolated the issue. Feeling a lil lost. Maybe it was my generator this whole time.??
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:24 PM
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Oregon60; when you say that you manually close the cut out relay, how are you doing that, with a jumper?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:14 PM
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I had the cover off so i could see if it is closing and opening and pushed on the lever to close it. Also to see how the other limiters were acting. I tried a jumper from the pos term of batt to the batt post on regulator also and it didn't close the connection>?

I am becoming more sold on the alternator conversion by the moment due to it seeming like a quicker/long term fix, in addition to possibly dumping any more money into this gen/reg system currently or in the future seeing that both were replaced 4 years ago, and being plenty confused about the situation and where i have gotten so far with it.


The local carquest has a one wire ford alternator for 75 bucks and the part # is 7058..? any thoughts? I really don't like giving up on things especially that i have installed a new regulator but I need it to work ASAP and I feel a little over my head seeing as I am no further than where I started. Thanks Again for taking time to respond, It is appreciated!
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:08 PM
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Oregon60; You may have already tried this, but with everything connected as should be and the engine running. Take jumper wire from positive battery post to batt connection on regulator. If that didn't close your cutout relay. Move on, remove that jumper wire. Next run a heavy jumper wire from your neg. battery terminal to the ground post on your generator. This two test should eliminate any external wiring problems. If ether of the test correct your problem then knowing you have the new regulator, I would suspect the generator. Not having the test equipment for testing the generator, I would pull it and remove the brushes. (Check that the brushes are long enough to make good contact without the springs bottoming out) clean the armature with fine sand paper. Then give it another shot. If that did not do the trick, then its time to test or replace the gen or go with the new alternator. It has been a long time since I have worked on a generator but they are simple. If the brushes are worn out they are very cheap to replace.
Just my thoughts you may be past this point.

Wow I am a sloooow typer! You already posted
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:13 PM
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Oregon60 try the ground test. if that don't work then pull the gen should not take to long to check the brush and clean the armature. its cheap! Brushes are the most common problem.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oregon60 View Post

I am becoming more sold on the alternator conversion by the moment due to it seeming like a quicker/long term fix, in addition to possibly dumping any more money into this gen/reg system currently or in the future seeing that both were replaced 4 years ago, and being plenty confused about the situation and where i have gotten so far with it.


The local carquest has a one wire ford alternator for 75 bucks and the part # is 7058..? any thoughts? I really don't like giving up on things especially that i have installed a new regulator but I need it to work ASAP and I feel a little over my head seeing as I am no further than where I started. Thanks Again for taking time to respond, It is appreciated!
Regarless how many Buzzards are flying around California with a Delco alternator, it dosen't mean that it is a more permanent fix. Ten to fiffteen years ago maybe I would agree with you on that point. But now most if not all alternators that you will by for $75 will come from China or Mexico and you had better save your reciept. Take your time and figure out what the root cause is and you will not regret it.
Sounds like your generator output needs to be verified.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurredon View Post
Regarless how many Buzzards are flying around California with a Delco alternator, it dosen't mean that it is a more permanent fix.......Sounds like your generator output needs to be verified.
Ouch!!!

If you take that generator to your local auto supply shop, they'll usually test them for free.

Spurredon is correct,a properly functioning generator is fine on a stock truck.I upgraded or added many electrical items, including auxiliary driving lights, halogen headlights(on relays ), lights and extra power outlets in my camper shell, louder horns, separate circuit for my lighter to power devices, separate circuit for stereo.With all these,the stock 30 amp(35?) generator was,I felt, not up to the task.If you will remain stock, just have a local shop rebuild yours,prolly go another 10-15 years.And it's not made in china.

My generator was operating perfect when I replaced it.It and the voltage regulator are still sitting on a shelf in my shop.Swing on down from Oregon, and they're yours.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:46 PM
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