You need to enter the gauges. The FMP is the main one.
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
So, do the test engine cold, like over night. Have all your gauges in and ready on the screen.
Turn on the key, and watch the FMP. It shouldn't drop below 45v.
The FVP will show how your batteries are doing towards your FICM.
Are you having long crank times now?
Scangauge needs some crank time to really pick up those issues. If you are not having long crank times, you probably wont catch anything.
I replaced our ficm a couple of months ago (the solder job worked but the blown trace... I didn't want to trust a repair for that!) and everything about the wife's F350 was textbook perfect. Then... the cold weather arrived and the batteries were mismatched and read a volt low so I replaced them.
Then in my haste to read the first voltages after reconnecting the two new batteries in the dark napa parking lot I managed to delete one my my ficm pids- and I didn't use the suggested names and I forget what I had them set to so now after a super fast google search I've found your pids and Thank You Very Much.
Now they are going into the Scangauge and we have piece of mind again.
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