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Truck will not crank

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Old 03-02-2012, 06:45 PM
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Truck will not crank

I drove my truck this morning, came home and parked it. Went to get in it a couple of hours later and it turns over but will not crank. Heres what I have checked:
Fuel, switched between tanks
Fuses, checked in cab and under hood
Replaced ignition coil
Tried new TPI, couldnt get old one off, so plugged in new one to try.
Fuel reset switch not tripped
Pushed valve on fuel rail with no pressure relief noted.

93 F350 Crew, 4X4, 7.5 (460) Fuel injected, Smog stuff removed. Standard, if that matters.

Whats my next troubleshooting journey?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:46 AM
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Check for a spark at the plugs, spray starting fluid in the intake and see what happens.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrich07 View Post
Pushed valve on fuel rail with no pressure relief noted.
You switched the ignition switch to "ON" and then when you depressed the Schrader valve on the fuel rail you got no fuel pressure relief? Do you hear any whirring from the tank/tanks? Fuel filter been changed any time in recent memory?

So you have no power to the fuel pump/pumps meaning blown fuse or failed relay or you have power to the pump/pumps meaning failed fuel pump. Since you have dual tanks it is doubtful both pumps failed at the same time.

You will have to check for power to the pumps and proceed from there. Check for power on the R/Y wire that comes out of the inertia switch and goes to the fuel selector switch. You know you'll have to check that wire AS you turn the ignition switch to ON, right? BTW, the tank selector switch is not loose in the dash panel is it?
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:47 AM
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Turns over and crank has the same meaning.
I will guess that you are saying that it will crank but will not start.

If you do not hear the pumps run for one second when you turn on the key then ground pin #2 of the self-test plug and turn on the key. This should pull in the fuel pump relay and send power to the inertia switch.
Do you hear the selected pump running now?
If yes then short pin #2 to pin #6 of the self-test pug and turn on the key. Do they still run when you turn on the key?
If not did the fuel pump relay click when you ground pin #6 with the key on?
Have you checked the fuel pump fuse?

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Old 03-03-2012, 02:37 PM
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I forgot to mention that I did try starter fluid in the intake and it did not work. I switched out relays also and I am hearing the fuel pumps when the key is turned on. I am not getting spark so I also replaced the rotor and cap and still no start.
I did double check all fuses again last night and all were working fine.

I am officially stumped, I do appreciate the picture as I was wondering what that was used for and my question was answered.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:39 PM
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Yes, new fuel filter and switch was replaced in last 5k.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:09 PM
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If the fuel pump is not getting triggered on by PCM during cranking and you have no spark I suspect a bad PIP (aka stator) sensor. A very common problem on these trucks with various failure modes.

PIP info: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Stator (RPM)

It can be replaced, but it can be a bear without the correct tools. Many choose to get a new or rebuilt distributor. To add insult to injury many of the so-called rebuilt distributors have bad PIP sensors in them. The "rebuilder" typically does not heat test them, heat soaking is the common trigger for PIP failures.

In order to fully diagnose whether the PIP is at fault, or perhaps the TFI I refer to this quite often: SBFTech.com TFI Module/Hall Sensor Testing Procedure

Keep in kind a failed TFI will typically not prevent the PCM from seeing the PIP signal.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:37 PM
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Unfortunately, I am not able to post any attachments in THIS forum. I do not know when I can (post atachments). If I could, I would post a photo of a breakout box that I made so as to make this kind of issue a superficial bump in the road (so to speak) As long as you know how to use a multimeter.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote-M-Pole View Post
Unfortunately, I am not able to post any attachments in THIS forum. I do not know when I can (post atachments). If I could, I would post a photo of a breakout box that I made so as to make this kind of issue a superficial bump in the road (so to speak) As long as you know how to use a multimeter.
email me the photo and I will post it for you.
My email address is at the bottom of this post.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:12 PM
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As far as testing the system here is a good link also:
Part 1 -4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Ford Index of Articles.

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Old 03-04-2012, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rla2005 View Post
I suspect a bad PIP (aka stator) sensor. A very common problem on these trucks
From what I gather from your symtoms, I second this.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:57 PM
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Ok, new distributor in and still no start. The one bright lining in this is my battery. I have yet to have to recharge it with all the cranking I have been doing with it.

I believe I have replaced everything ignition related and still no spark. I will once again check fuses (4th time) but am now at a loss completely.

And I did try the distributor at 180 degrees opposite just to rule that out as well. I do appreciate everyone's input.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:05 PM
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If you have no spark unplug the computer and see if spark returns. If it does the computer maybe bad or the computer may have lost its grounds or power.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:22 PM
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Thanks, if I remember correctly it is by the parking brake under the dash correct?

One thing I remember is that I had gone by the car wash and knocked off some old dirt in the fender wells. Is there anything in that area I could have screwed up with water spray? Mind you my truck has a 2 inch body lift with a 6 inch suspension as well sitting on 39's so I have a bit of a different angle than most folks at the car wash.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:51 PM
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A lot of posters have reported the computer going out after washing down around there.

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