94 bronco brake light problems
#1
94 bronco brake light problems
So i noticed the other day my brake lights were on after truck was turned off...figured probably brake light switch. Wrong. I disconnected switch, brake lights still stay on?? Checked the fuses on the hotblock on fenderwall looked good not sure what could be making the lights stay on. getting tired of disconnecting neg bat cable so I dont run battery dead> Anyone have any ideas?..LOVE my bronco but very frustrated.
#2
Well since the brake light circuit completes to the negative, chances are you've rubbed through a negative (ground) wire back near the light assemblies. Check the wiring where it passes through the body at the back of the tail light assemblies if there is no sign of fraying or stripped insulation, work your way back to the tail light switch checking the wiring harness for damage.
#4
So, the wiring has no issues between the switch and the lamp assemblies and along the way you found nothing amiss yet the problem still persists. You have touched everything electrical that could be causing the problem IF the only lamps affected are the stop lamps. The stop lamp circuit is a fused circuit. It is possible, albeit exceedingly implausible, that the problem exists between the switch and the fuse. However, if that were the location of the problem, everything on the stop lamp circuit would be affected. I don't think the stop lamps are on a dedicated circuit.
#6
found the problem..evidently a little critter got in somewhere and gnawed thru some insulation so the negative was touching the frame I hadnt seen before. thanks for the help. I do however have a new problem driver side window wont go all the way up, motor is running but when window gets about an inch from closed it makes a clicking, ratcheting noise like the drive gear teeth are worn (can still hear window motor running). any ever have a similar problem? fixes?
#7
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#8
On the motor for the window, the torque pins are probably gone. These are about 5 bucks at the dealer. The pins are made of nylon or plastic and the grease and heat cause them to fail. I can't spell deteriorate. Remove the motor assembly from the regulator, remove the three screws on the gear assembly. Clean all the nylon and old grease out of the triangular cam. Insert the new pins, grease, reassemble. two hours and three beers and your done. The driver side goes first then the passenger side then the back window. If you don't have a rider with you very often the back window will go first. Or you can just put a refurbished motor/gear on. Still two hours and three beers. Mark
#9
I would just go ahead with a new motor, but i would look into these new fandangled motors all the kids are using these days, i think their like doormans or something? A few people have put them in including Encho and i think Njeer, but i am not sure. Apparently their a little cheaper than normal motors but they work really good and their fast too. Look into it. I will look around to see if i can find the thread but my memory is failing me once more.
#10
Found the a quote from Encho on his motor
Dorman... I plan to look into one when i do the back window motor but that should be for a while. Mine needs a bit of greasing or waxing for the tracks and it should move pretty good. I was having wiring issues causing it to not get enough power to the motor and not being able to heft the window back up.
My window motor had bushing replaced years ago and started failing again, i used Dorman replacements bought in Amazon, $28 - $34 for fresh new motors seems way better than just replacing the bushings if they're expensive. Also, you could have replaced the bushings with some nuts (can't recall the size just now), that way you'll have ateel in there and that won't be an issue again.
P.S.: Congrats on the working windows! i know the feeling...
P.S.: Congrats on the working windows! i know the feeling...
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