!997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission.

Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.

It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.

The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it).

Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?

Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?

When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.

 

Did your mechanic properly bleed the clutch hydraulic system when installing the new slave cylinder?

 

I've known him for years and he has always been thorough and top notch. It would be out of character for him not to drain and flush the line when replacing the slave cylinder, but, I left it with him for several days so I can't know for sure. How would I find out if there is a problem involving the hydraulic fluid?

A retired truck driver friend (relative) of mine tried it out and told me that, in his opinion, the clutch is working fine and fully disengaging, but, that the stiffness in 1st, 2nd, and reverse might be wear on the synchromesh rings within the transmission itself. Has anyone else had experience with synchromesh rings wearing down after 222k miles and causing stiffness with 1st, 2nd, and reverse?

If there is something amiss with the hydraulic line, I would like to check that out - I would be very surprised if my mechanic failed to do that. I just remember how smooth it shifted when it was new, and, I have to admit I don't really understand which component wear is causing the stiffness. I CAN go ahead and shift, but, I know it is taking more force than it used to.

 

after that many miles I would assume the tranny has some wear. I don't know the specifics of your particular trans but I have rebuilt a few. What you refer to as synchromesh rings are blocker rings, some are made of brass and some of a friction material similar to friction rings in and automatic trans. If the lining wears away it would require more effort to shift it into gear because it is what is helping to match the input shaft speed to the output shaft speed thus synchronizing the 2 speeds so you get a smooth grindless shift. How much do you love your truck, sounds like time for a rebuild.

 

I LOVE my truck! I notice that if I apply force (to go into 1st or 2nd) just shy of what it would take to push on it into gear, and hold that measured force for a half second or so, then the stiffness disappears and it goes right in with ease. That suggests to me what you are saying is spot on - right?

The measured pressure I apply is slowing down the main transmission rotor to match the engine speed (in either 1st or 2nd), and, it is just taking a bit longer to match up than when those "blockers" were new and unworn.

If this is probably a good diagnosis, then, what am I looking at to replace those blockers? Assuming the gears are NOT worn or chipped, then, would anything else likely need replacing?

What kind of costs would a ballpark figure entail - it was $650 to replace the clutch "kit" and slave cyldinder (parts and labor). I wonder how much more to replace those blockers?

Also, is this the kind or repair that lends itself to tricky workmanship - in other words, given my mechanic is top notch, is this the kind of repair that one can truly expect everything to be done right and then the truck will shift like it did when it was new?

 

Have you changed the oil in the transmisson? The one I have someone was kind enough to put 90 weight gear lube in. Those synchronizers don't like that stuff as the grease prevents the rings from being able to have enough friction to do their job, just as you stated writing about. ATF is what is needed. kotzy

 

I haven't the foggiest what it would cost, depends on what parts are needed and what they cost. You truly won't know until it's tore down. The gears usually hold up ok and the synchronizers should be fine as long as you weren't slamming thru the gears. other things that wear are shift forks, bushings etc. You might be better off looking for a low mile used unit. I know the ones I have done required some special tools and a press to get things apart and back together, not saying yours does. Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market to see what a used tranny would go for.

 

The Ranger and Explorer is well known to be a pain to bleed the clutch. Just because someone is "top notch" at some things, does not mean they are top notch in ALL things.

A bottle of fluid and rebleeding the clutch is in order for you.

Just gravity bleed the system, topping off the reservoir at least 3 times. hopefully any air did not make it's way to the master cylinder. If it did you'll have to remove the master cylinder, stretch out the line and reservoir and bench bleed and then start the gravity process all over.

Josh

 

Ok, Bulllit390, that sounds like something maybe I can do myself. I need to make sure I use the right fluid - I suppose it is just ordinary brake fluid I can get at Oreilley's, right? I also need to know from where it falls out (the bottom plug), and, to where I add fluid (the top cap). I am going to look for a service manual to read about this beforehand, because, being inexperienced, it is likely something I could really screw up if I am not very careful. Any guidance as to specific things I should know before I start, please advise.

Would air in the line likely cause this stickiness in 1st, 2nd, and reverse gear? If this solves the problem, that would be wonderful, because i really love this truck and the prices I have found for a rebuilt transmission run $1000 or more - gasp.

 

I'm just curious, does it shift easy when the engine is off and difficult when its running or is it always difficult?

 

Check this out:

Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedures - YouTube

This is what I followed and it worked Perfectly (pun somewhat intended)

Josh

 

When the engine is off, it goes right into any gear - no problem. When the engine is running, SOMETIMES it fights back to go into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. If I put it in neutral, while the engine is running, waiting for a red light, then, when the light changes, I depress the clutch but I have to push real hard, and pause momentarily, in order for it to go into 1st - when I'm ready to go into 2nd, there is still that pause and I have to push too hard (I think) to get it to go in. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are always easy.

After watching that video, I believe that was probably my MAIN problem all along. I don't begrudge the new clutch kit and slave cylinder (222k miles, afterall), but, I am now believing my mechanic probably did NOT bench bleed the master cylinder and line. I'll be calling him on Monday to find out, and, also to find out if he has the equipment (including that pressure test instrument) to perform a bench bleed and the following gravity bleed.

They didn't say on the move what tool is used at the end to measure the clutch pressure (60 thousands, he said) - so, I may have to call their 800 number to see if they can recommend a shop here in the Dallas metroplex that has that equipment and can do it right.

I am starting to be pretty sure now that my main problem is just air bubbles in that line that the guy (in the video) says is horizontal and lets the bubbles go back and forth, never coming out with just a gravity bleed.

Thanks - I'll post a followup later (after Monday) when I find out some more about this aspect of it.

 

I wouldn't worry about measuring the clutch pressure plate distance.

The hard part is going to be removing the master cylinder with the pushrod attached in order to bleed it.

I just went thru this on my truck swapping in the M5OD trans and bench bleeding out the air probably took at least 20 or more minutes. I also ended up gravity bleeding the entire system twice to remove all the air.

Josh

 

If you did this yourself, Bullit390, then you can answer a question I have about the video - when he has it hooked up on the bench, he indicates that the pressure line is extended downward, and then he says, "tie it off with a piece of wire". That confuses me. What does that distal end of the pressure line (where it goes into the slave cylinder) look like? Is it rubber and you close it up with real tight crimp? That is the part I don't understand here - when you disconnect the pressure line from the slave cylinder, what keeps the brake fluid from dripping out from the line? Is there some automatic shutoff valve at that end of the pressure line?

I *MAY* tackle this myself, but, if I can find a shop in the Dallas metroplex that has experience doing this, it would probably be better to pay them since they will know how to get it off, onto a bench, bleed it, test it, put it back on, connect to the slave, gravity bleed, and make sure it is done right and not mess it up.

I sure have gotten an education from this forum - thanks a bunch. I am convinced now that this is what is needed for my truck to be shifting back like when it was new.

 

It's a quick disconnect fitting, therefore it close off when detached from the slave.

With the m/c and line removed from the truck you then stretch out the line and the reservoir to make the air bubbles go up unhindered.

Definately tap the line with a screwdriver like he shows, makes a difference.

Once that is bled you reinstall into the truck and then gravity bleed. The fluid will push the air bubbles out. I ran about 3 reservoirs thru the system and figured it was Todd and drive the truck bout a week, but it just felt maybe more could be bleed so I ran about 3 more reservoirs thru and it made a pretty good difference.

Now, if he had only disconnected the line and replace he clutch and slave it should be fine, but it would depend on just what was done to bleed the slave. Hopefully air didn't make it's way to the line where it goes around the frame rail. That is one of the "traps" along with the strange angle the m/c is mounted in the truck.
Josh