swirkus, be sure to check the underside of the rocker covers where the bolt holes are located. If your guy tried to stop the leak by tightening the bolts 'just a little bit more should do it', he may have deformed the metal. If overtightened, the metal will not be flat any more near the bolt hole. If so, it must be tapped back gently to attempt to get as even a surface as you can. Otherwise, the bolt will be able to get tight right at the bolt, but not elsewhere.

 

Right on with Tom on this one. Nothing wrong with wanting them old covers fixed up, I love the "Powered by Ford" and wouldn't want cheapie chrome ones over these. Just make sure to glue to cover side and let dry before you put them on.

 

"Only" five (5) bolts on the valve covers for an FE? Pshaw!

Try two (2) on the Y block!

Use good quality cork gaskets if you can find them. Seal them thoroughly on one side, to the valve covers, with your favorite RTV or sealer for 24 hrs.

Then, the trick that someone on FTE explained, coat the head surface and gasket side well with fresh oil, then torque it down to 2 or 2 and a half inch lbs. start the engine and warm it up while checking for leaks. Do not over tighten!

when done this way they don't leak and, this is important - can be removed and reinstalled numerous times without hassle. The old timers figured this out because the valve covers had to come off frequently for solid lifter valve lash adjustments, modern engines don't hardly ever need the valve covers off.

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I used the high tack gasket sealant, which I think is a great idea, to hold the gaskets in place on the covers while your putting them on. The mistake I made is letting it dry over night, before I torqued the screws. The next day, the sealant had hardened and I had some bumps under the gasket. Needless to say, mine are leaking on a fresh rebuild.

 

Also helps use use spreader bars to widen the "footprint" of the bolt's torque. Ain;t had a set in a few years now, but I assume they're still available