I have a 2000 crew cab and noticed oil seepage behind the passenger valve cover dripping onto the mid body of the starter and some dripping down the fly wheel cover as well. I did a check to see if the boots were tight. The "orange" lower boot had one clamp that was noticeably looser than the other. I noticed the other one was not as loose so i tightened it up as well using a flathead. Ford says the specs are 80 inch lbs of torque. How tight do you want to go on these boots? Basically I evened up the tightness.

The upper "blue" boot had one of the clamps looser than the other. Using a 7/16 i tightened it to the point where I couldn't tighten it up any further using 1 finger. I don't have an inch lb torque wrench

I am guessing that this might be the issue for the oil leak by I am not 100% sure. Any pointers would be appreciated.

This forum has been pretty helpful for a new owner of a Powerstroke!

 

Could be coming from the valley of the motor. I don't think you'll get that much oil from your boots. Take a look in the valley, if theres oil wash down good take a drive and look closer. It mit be coming from the drain hole on passenger side valley then down the motor. Check back and we can help future.
Chet

 

I have the exact same symptoms on my 2000. Did a good cleaning in the valley (Simple Green, pressure washer, and dried with air hose) Looks like it's coming from the HPOP line on the passenger side (at the crimp where the metal fitting meets the rubber line) AND a little fuel weeping from the filter housing drain line as well.

If it's your HPOP lines, be ready to open your wallet. Those little jokers will set you back about $100/ea and mine only lasted 280,000 miles.

I don't want to get off topic. But, if you are seeing oil leaking from your CAC boots, you might consider the CCV mod. My CAC boots were seeping oil in the past. Did the CCV mod, cleaned the boots and pipes and the problem went away. The CCV mod takes less than an hour. Welcome to guzzle's CCV mod web page

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines is where you can get new o-rings for the CCV valve. Advance Auto Parts has a 3/4'' 90-degree elbow for GM PCV systems. 4 hose clamps, 19' of 3/4'' ID fuel hose, some zip ties, cold beer or beverage of your choice, and you're done. Be sure to avoid any sagging/low spots when you route the vent hose.

Be sure to remove your intake plumbing from the filter to the turbo inlet and clean the sludge out. I use ether for cleaning parts. It's cheaper than brake/carb/parts spray and doesn't leave a residue. Remember not to smoke, create sparks, or cycle the glow plugs while your using ether. Avoid spraying into the turbo and engine unless you allow adequate time for it to evaporate before trying to start the engine.

You'll need to plug the hole where the old CCV line connects to the intake plumbing or replace the plastic pipe with a 4'' diameter steel pipe. (exhaust pipe works) I just tapped and plugged the hole on mine. Be careful if you decide to tap and plug. The nipple is thin plastic and a tapered tap can break it rather easily.

If you want to get fancy, build the oil trap out of 2'' pvc, scotch pads, and soup can. (as Guzzle illustrates). I like fancy (don't like fluids spraying under the frame, either), so I built the trap and installed behind my fuel tank. The only thing I have noticed is the white "steam" that comes out of the oil fill neck when you remove the cap while the engine is running. As long as there is not pressure behind the steam, everything is fine. (set a ping pong ball on the fill tube, if it doesn't bounce, you're good)

 

I have been thinking about doing the ccv mod. I probably should have done it when I did the 6637 filter, which by the way seems to be working well.

My intercooler boots are covered in an oily sooty crap. At the very least i think I am going to take them off, clean them, check for cracks and such. Do you just visually inspect them and if no cracks, just reinstall?

My truck has 168k now. I bought it at 163.5 and the previous owner replaced the oil pan, hpop oil lines, fuel lines, etc at about 162k.

How do you all go about working on these trucks? I am 6'4 and I am basically laying a piece of old carpet on top of the motor climbing up via the tire I have a good flashlight and could not see anything at the top of the engine. I did not break out the inspection mirror to really get a good look. I'll see if I can look at it again this afternoon.

 

There was a thread some time ago about building a work platform that hangs on the front recovery hooks. I can't find the thread but just take a couple of bicycle hangers and screw them into a length of 2x12 and hang that on the front tow hooks. makes a great step for working under the hood.

 

Here is what I use. I have 3 or 4 of them I dont remember for sure but I put them around the front and sides of the truck. They are made of aluminum and have a weight rating of 225lbs but when I first got mine I was at 330 and no problems at all. I weigh significantly less now but dont let the weight rating be a deal breaker. I bought mine at lowes on black friday a couple years ago for 19 bucks ea.

Here is a link and pic to what I have made by Werner

Media Viewer | Wayfair

Hope it helps

Lance

 

What he said^^^
I bought my truck one for Christmas. Works great.
Using is inside now for trimming around the ceiling. Don't have to move as much as a step stool

 

When you clean and reinstall the ic boots and tubes, spray em with a good shot of hairspray. When reassembled you can almost take the clamps off and the boots still hold.

 

Andy's Beast- I do a good visual inspection. Inside and outside. Squeeze the boots and look for cracks/dry rotting. You may also see layers of the boots starting to erode.(looks like white threads/mesh). Pay close attention to where the metal coils contact the rubber as this is a good place for holes to start. If the boots are cracking or hard, replace them.

When I install, I coat the inside with hairspray and install ALL boots before I tighten any clamps. This allows you to rotate the plumbing to avoid rub spots.

I use a cotter pin and hose removal tool to remove/install the boots. Titan 15046 Hose & Cotter Pin Remover These little tools are cheap and work much easier than a screwdriver. Just keep the point parallel to the tube when sliding under the boots so you don't punch a hole in the rubber.

Use T-bolt clamps with springs. Put plenty of lube on the threads before you tighten them down. You'll be glad you did when it comes time to take them off again.

 

I haven't had time to play much with the truck since I tightened the boots up. I was under the truck cleaning up oil residue trying to pin point the general zip code of the leak. I took it for a couple of 50 mile round trip country cruises and decided after the last trip to look under the truck. No drip spot. Ok..., went and got the flashlight and did not notice any new oil residue anywhere. The truck seemed to run a lil tighter, but I don't think simply tightening boots would have done that. Dumb luck, I guess...for now.

 

Eventually, you need to replace those boots. They just won't stay tight after being exposed to oil over long periods of time. I'd just get the silicone intercooler couplers from Riff Raff

Riffraff Diesel: RDP Complete CAC Intercooler Boot Kit