I've seen this discussed on Google several times on different forums and there's always a big group of nay-sayers who say everything is totally different and it'll never work.

Here's the write-up on how I did it. No guarantees it will work for you, but it is very doable with no major alterations to the car.

I needed a backing plate for my drum brake setup. Ford wanted 3 days and $85 for one, so I went to the junk yard. (This happened before I knew that you cannot replace a backing plate without pressing out the bearing). The guy at the junk yard said he couldn't help me because they don't have anything compatible with my '01. The part I learned to ask for is called a stub axle in the business which basically means they unbolt the trailing arm, upper and lower control arms and the whole corner's suspension comes out as an assembly. (keep in mind that 3 bolts is all that holds it in, but plan on a day's work if you aren't prepared for what's to follow). When I went back in the yard, I saw an 05 with the disc setup already pulled out sitting in the rear. The salesman told me it would not work since the Hollander interchange said it won't work, it must not work...right?

Brings me to the next topic on this car's brakes. Aside from a simple rear brake job, you can't do anything without pressing out the bearing/hub assembly which nearly requires the removal of the stub axle assembly anyway. I would have had to press the bearing out to replace the backing plate.

If you've read about changing out the rear bearings, you know about the fight with the rear trailing arms. Ford used an alignment cam sleeved into the the bushing on the front portion of the rear trailing arms. For this swap to go smoothly, plan on purchasing the alignment cams and new traling arm bushings from Ford to make it work. Have the new bushing pressed in if you're smart and resourceful or you can fight it with a vise at home like I did. (I was on a deadline as in I had to go to work the next day).

The junk yard stub axles bolted right into my car with the disc brakes intact. The e-brake cables are different, and will have to be replaced if the junk yard stub axles don't come with them.

Even the rear coil spring is easy to deal with on this suspension system. The only issue I had was with the trailing arm bushing.

The brake hoses used the same attachment bracket from drum to disc and everything else except for the master cylinder was identical in how it mounted to the car... keep this in mind. The master cylinder always has a different part number from drum to disc brake cars. I've always read that this is because there's a residual pressure valve inside the drum master cylinders which keeps a little pressure against a set of drum brakes. Who knows if that's right or not, but plan on a master cylinder with the swap. I put one on because my car needed one anyway.

Now for the why...
Lots of people say drum brakes are sufficient and maybe they are. I like the look and performance of disc brakes better. Yes, drum brakes would be sufficient, but disc are better, more efficient and less prone to adjustment issues, and problems with water and fade. The best part is that the yard I bought the stub axles from sold me both for 100 or basically 20 more than I would have paid for a backing plate and they were available and ready to buy right then and there as opposed to waiting days for Ford to get me a new plate.
So my 2001 Escape has factory Ford-style rear disc brakes off a 2005. They work great. The ebrake works great (better that I could ever get it to work with the drum brakes) and the annoying squeek I used to get every time we let off the old drum brakes is gone.

This is a very easy, doable modification to the first Escapes. Because of the circumstances, it cost me less than making the drum brakes work right. The parts I bought came with new looking brakes on them as well. It was a great win/win.

 

I first have to ask my self...why? If you have basic mechanical ability, which it sounds like you have, don't you just replace the drums. The drums that are enginnered to work with a given proportioning valve not to mention anti-lock braking systems. Anyway, the vehicle was designed to work with what it came with. Now it's anyone's guess if it will stop correctly.

 

I drilled the alignment adjuster out of the bushing with a 5/8 masonary drill in my drill press.

 

If you have to ask "why", then you may be in the wrong place.

VIN-F10GNM80371
COLOR--R
DSO--25
TRANS--G
AXLE--17
140HP @ 3800 RPM
YEAR--1972
MAKE--FORD
MODEL--F100
ENGINE--1979 FORD THUNDERBIRD 351M
TRANS-1979 FORD FMX w/dual trans coolers
SHIFTER-1974 TOYOTA W/HOMEMADE LINKAGE
TIRES--P215/85R-16
WHEELS--16x8 White Wagon Wheels new in 99
AXLES--73 FORD F250,
BRAKES--73 Ford F250 Disk FRONT, Drum REAR
BED--1971 FORD F100
RADIATOR--1972 FORD F100 (390)
FUEL TANK--1971 FORD F100
DRIVESHAFT--SHORTENED 1971 FORD F100 2 PIECE
U-JOINTS--FRONT - COMINATION (CARQUEST #5-134X)
CENTER - STOCK 1971 F100
REAR - Autozone New '99
REAR SPRINGS--1969 FORD F250
SEAT--1971 FORD F350
FRONT SPRINGS--1995 McQuay-Norris (AUTOZONE)
Front Bumper - L.A. traffic push bumper
REAR BUMPER - Counter support Tyndall AFB accounting and finance
ALTERNATOR--MID 70's GM
MOTOR MOUNTS--1977 FORD F150 f/351M
POWER STEERING BOX--1975 F100
Heater Core--New (NOV) 1996
Fan Relay--1980 Chevette - G.M. Grn - Blu - Ford
Yel - Red
Blu - Org