Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement (with pics)
#121
well i just like the moog style setup with the easily replaceable bushings. i wasn't a big fan of the swivel ball joint type setup. I don't mind the replacement work. i have all the tools to replace them in my shop so shouldn't be too much trouble.
There's zero wrong with the links themselves so just seemed like getting only the pieces i needed to replace was the right way to go about it. and at $40 for everything the price was right.
There's zero wrong with the links themselves so just seemed like getting only the pieces i needed to replace was the right way to go about it. and at $40 for everything the price was right.
#122
Great post and fixed my rattling issue. Just adding to post to help those with Excursions as well.
I had a rattling going on when hitting road bumps and ripples that was driving me crazy. Got under and moved the sway bar easily left and right and up and down.
So, the Sway bar bushings were worn down. I had replaced them with Energy Suspensions a long while back. Was surprised they worn enough to allow the sway bar to rattle inside the bushing.
Seemed the drop links were pretty loose also. Had replaced them with Original factory types first time to remove the clunk I used to get when backing down the driveway in a twist.
So, I ordered the Energy Suspension parts needed for this model:
art Number: 4.5186R Complete Front Sway Bar Frame and Endlink Bushings - 32MM 1.25 inches Sway Bar - 38.09MM 1.5 Inch
Part Number: 4.5180R Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm
Since I was not sure on the size of the bushings, I just ordered as shown above.
I can confirm the 36mm are for this model Excursion, so did not need the 32mm from the kit.
The drop links were fun to get the original bushings out. Not bad really.
I used my Ball Joint removal tool to press them out. Put the pressure on the bushing, applied head with MAP torch and when it got hot it started to slide out. I did remove the rubber grommets first to reduce the fire hazard. They come off easily by removing the retaining springs.
Now, all is good! I selected the Red this time so I could know easily enough I had replaced them with the Energy Suspensions parts.
If/when they wear out, they are easy to replace.
Ball Joint Removal tool pressing out bushing in Drop Link
New bushings installed.
I had a rattling going on when hitting road bumps and ripples that was driving me crazy. Got under and moved the sway bar easily left and right and up and down.
So, the Sway bar bushings were worn down. I had replaced them with Energy Suspensions a long while back. Was surprised they worn enough to allow the sway bar to rattle inside the bushing.
Seemed the drop links were pretty loose also. Had replaced them with Original factory types first time to remove the clunk I used to get when backing down the driveway in a twist.
So, I ordered the Energy Suspension parts needed for this model:
art Number: 4.5186R Complete Front Sway Bar Frame and Endlink Bushings - 32MM 1.25 inches Sway Bar - 38.09MM 1.5 Inch
Part Number: 4.5180R Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm
Since I was not sure on the size of the bushings, I just ordered as shown above.
I can confirm the 36mm are for this model Excursion, so did not need the 32mm from the kit.
The drop links were fun to get the original bushings out. Not bad really.
I used my Ball Joint removal tool to press them out. Put the pressure on the bushing, applied head with MAP torch and when it got hot it started to slide out. I did remove the rubber grommets first to reduce the fire hazard. They come off easily by removing the retaining springs.
Now, all is good! I selected the Red this time so I could know easily enough I had replaced them with the Energy Suspensions parts.
If/when they wear out, they are easy to replace.
Ball Joint Removal tool pressing out bushing in Drop Link
New bushings installed.
Last edited by RobertH; 11-14-2014 at 09:57 AM. Reason: adding pics
#123
Great post and fixed my rattling issue. Just adding to post to help those with Excursions as well.
I had a rattling going on when hitting road bumps and ripples that was driving me crazy. Got under and moved the sway bar easily left and right and up and down.
So, the Sway bar bushings were worn down. I had replaced them with Energy Suspensions a long while back. Was surprised they worn enough to allow the sway bar to rattle inside the bushing.
Seemed the drop links were pretty loose also. Had replaced them with Original factory types first time to remove the clunk I used to get when backing down the driveway in a twist.
So, I ordered the Energy Suspension parts needed for this model:
art Number: 4.5186R Complete Front Sway Bar Frame and Endlink Bushings - 32MM 1.25 inches Sway Bar - 38.09MM 1.5 Inch
Part Number: 4.5180R Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm
Since I was not sure on the size of the bushings, I just ordered as shown above.
I can confirm the 36mm are for this model Excursion, so did not need the 32mm from the kit.
The drop links were fun to get the original bushings out. Not bad really.
I used my Ball Joint removal tool to press them out. Put the pressure on the bushing, applied head with MAP torch and when it got hot it started to slide out. I did remove the rubber grommets first to reduce the fire hazard. They come off easily by removing the retaining springs.
Now, all is good! I selected the Red this time so I could know easily enough I had replaced them with the Energy Suspensions parts.
If/when they wear out, they are easy to replace.
Ball Joint Removal tool pressing out bushing in Drop Link
New bushings installed.
I had a rattling going on when hitting road bumps and ripples that was driving me crazy. Got under and moved the sway bar easily left and right and up and down.
So, the Sway bar bushings were worn down. I had replaced them with Energy Suspensions a long while back. Was surprised they worn enough to allow the sway bar to rattle inside the bushing.
Seemed the drop links were pretty loose also. Had replaced them with Original factory types first time to remove the clunk I used to get when backing down the driveway in a twist.
So, I ordered the Energy Suspension parts needed for this model:
art Number: 4.5186R Complete Front Sway Bar Frame and Endlink Bushings - 32MM 1.25 inches Sway Bar - 38.09MM 1.5 Inch
Part Number: 4.5180R Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm
Since I was not sure on the size of the bushings, I just ordered as shown above.
I can confirm the 36mm are for this model Excursion, so did not need the 32mm from the kit.
The drop links were fun to get the original bushings out. Not bad really.
I used my Ball Joint removal tool to press them out. Put the pressure on the bushing, applied head with MAP torch and when it got hot it started to slide out. I did remove the rubber grommets first to reduce the fire hazard. They come off easily by removing the retaining springs.
Now, all is good! I selected the Red this time so I could know easily enough I had replaced them with the Energy Suspensions parts.
If/when they wear out, they are easy to replace.
Ball Joint Removal tool pressing out bushing in Drop Link
New bushings installed.
You wore out energy suspension bushings ? wow...
#124
#125
Has anyone used the MOOG version of the bushings everyone seems to be using from Energy Suspension? They are MOOG part # K80086 They look like they come with new nuts and bolts too.
Moog Sway Bar Link Kit K80086: Shop the best Sway Bar Link Kit at Advance Auto Parts
Moog Sway Bar Bushing Kit K80203: Purchase the best Sway Bar Bushing at Advance Auto Parts
I'm driving around with my sway bar in the back end for now until I get parts to fix my end links. I also need to fix my track bar because one of the body mount bushings had wear on the side from rubbing against the curve in the sway bar . Strangely I can't really tell my sway bar is off except for the clicking sound that made me think my u-joints were going bad is now gone.
Edit: had to read fine print, says these are for Rear? and that they don't come with nuts and bolts. arg
Moog Sway Bar Link Kit K80086: Shop the best Sway Bar Link Kit at Advance Auto Parts
Moog Sway Bar Bushing Kit K80203: Purchase the best Sway Bar Bushing at Advance Auto Parts
I'm driving around with my sway bar in the back end for now until I get parts to fix my end links. I also need to fix my track bar because one of the body mount bushings had wear on the side from rubbing against the curve in the sway bar . Strangely I can't really tell my sway bar is off except for the clicking sound that made me think my u-joints were going bad is now gone.
Edit: had to read fine print, says these are for Rear? and that they don't come with nuts and bolts. arg
#128
I ordered my truck with every available suspension option. At that time I was doing heavy duty towing and hauling. Now I only tow a couple of light trailers and not very often.
My stabilizer / sway bar links bushings are worn again (I have replaced them twice so for), so I get to listen to the typical rattling sound they make. I am wondering if I can just take the stabilizer bar (and its links) off and leave it off. Think this would have any significant consequences?
Thanks
My stabilizer / sway bar links bushings are worn again (I have replaced them twice so for), so I get to listen to the typical rattling sound they make. I am wondering if I can just take the stabilizer bar (and its links) off and leave it off. Think this would have any significant consequences?
Thanks
#129
IMO no. I've done this frequently during off road trips where I want some articulation up front. The drive to and from the desert (3hrs) on the highway is noticeably different with more sway, but once accustomed to it, no problem. One caveat, I never needed to make an emergency avoidance maneuver to the side; not sure how that would work at speed. Now with the f350 rear C springs installed, there isn't much sway anymore.
My advice is try it and see how the truck reacts under some controlled conditions; i.e. empty stadium parking lot.
#132
And I can't imagine what makes you tick, so negative to nearly everything, pity. But thanks for adding to my thread Brent!
By the way back when I did these I only spent money and time, I opted out of the second helping of money you mentioned. The kit I used wasn't much different in cost from your Dormans and my time is actually free, no one pays me for my time off from work and I enjoy playing in the shop, I wish I had more time to do it. As for doing it for no reason, well my worn link bushing were knocking about so that was my reason for doing the job. And my original factory bolts are still hanging in there doing their thing.
Just because someone does a job with different parts or methods than how you have done it doesn't make them inferior to you or even foolish, so lighten up. The parts worked as designed, are still holding up fine, cost was reasonable and the job was fun, what's the problem with that?
#133
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mt. Shasta California
Posts: 11,798
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And I can't imagine what makes you tick, so negative to nearly everything, pity. But thanks for adding to my thread Brent!
By the way back when I did these I only spent money and time, I opted out of the second helping of money you mentioned. The kit I used wasn't much different in cost from your Dormans and my time is actually free, no one pays me for my time off from work and I enjoy playing in the shop, I wish I had more time to do it. As for doing it for no reason, well my worn link bushing were knocking about so that was my reason for doing the job. And my original factory bolts are still hanging in there doing their thing.
Just because someone does a job with different parts or methods than how you have done it doesn't make them inferior to you or even foolish, so lighten up. The parts worked as designed, are still holding up fine, cost was reasonable and the job was fun, what's the problem with that?
By the way back when I did these I only spent money and time, I opted out of the second helping of money you mentioned. The kit I used wasn't much different in cost from your Dormans and my time is actually free, no one pays me for my time off from work and I enjoy playing in the shop, I wish I had more time to do it. As for doing it for no reason, well my worn link bushing were knocking about so that was my reason for doing the job. And my original factory bolts are still hanging in there doing their thing.
Just because someone does a job with different parts or methods than how you have done it doesn't make them inferior to you or even foolish, so lighten up. The parts worked as designed, are still holding up fine, cost was reasonable and the job was fun, what's the problem with that?
I think you are just trying to justify what you did. I see it all the time.
#134
And I can't imagine what makes you tick, so negative to nearly everything, pity. But thanks for adding to my thread Brent!
By the way back when I did these I only spent money and time, I opted out of the second helping of money you mentioned. The kit I used wasn't much different in cost from your Dormans and my time is actually free, no one pays me for my time off from work and I enjoy playing in the shop, I wish I had more time to do it. As for doing it for no reason, well my worn link bushing were knocking about so that was my reason for doing the job. And my original factory bolts are still hanging in there doing their thing.
Just because someone does a job with different parts or methods than how you have done it doesn't make them inferior to you or even foolish, so lighten up. The parts worked as designed, are still holding up fine, cost was reasonable and the job was fun, what's the problem with that?
By the way back when I did these I only spent money and time, I opted out of the second helping of money you mentioned. The kit I used wasn't much different in cost from your Dormans and my time is actually free, no one pays me for my time off from work and I enjoy playing in the shop, I wish I had more time to do it. As for doing it for no reason, well my worn link bushing were knocking about so that was my reason for doing the job. And my original factory bolts are still hanging in there doing their thing.
Just because someone does a job with different parts or methods than how you have done it doesn't make them inferior to you or even foolish, so lighten up. The parts worked as designed, are still holding up fine, cost was reasonable and the job was fun, what's the problem with that?
What Brent will never understand is that we actually enjoy working on our trucks and the possibility of making them better than they were. I will take a 4 hour job over parts slapping anyday because as we stated earlier we enjoy the bonding time with our rides, As for Brent go with Dorman or Cardon or whatever part you want and be happy but quit knocking the guys who are looking for a little bit more..
#135
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mt. Shasta California
Posts: 11,798
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Received 8 Likes
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What Brent will never understand is that we actually enjoy working on our trucks and the possibility of making them better than they were. I will take a 4 hour job over parts slapping anyday because as we stated earlier we enjoy the bonding time with our rides, As for Brent go with Dorman or Cardon or whatever part you want and be happy but quit knocking the guys who are looking for a little bit more..