Yes its smooth off the carb.

 

Ok, an answer. It pushes easily when not on the carb. Then the prob is with the connection to the carb.

But, I don't think it is in the length of the extension. You have a lot of adjustment in that link, and should be able to overcome too much extension. I'm guessing that it is the way you are attaching the linkage to the carb. You mentioned something about what the manual says. Did you connect it the way the manual said?

 

Ive followed them exactly except for the perch spring.

 

I just ordered the perch kit. As im looking at the pictures in the manual it shows i got to remove a lockout screw. Which by the picture seems to be what is wrong.

 

perch kit

 

Ok. Although I can't see the problem in the picture, I'll take your word for it. Usually the manufacturer has a pretty good handle on what it takes to make their stuff work. Please let us know how it goes.

 

One thing I've seen, if you don't connect to the carb correctly, is the kickdown travel is much less then the throttle travel.

The kickdown linkage should only be pushed at the end of the throttle travel....meaning you should only be actuating the kickdown when the throttle is wide open. I've seen where the kidkdown is attacked to the wrong place (usually on a carb without the proper ford kickdown linkage) and is pushing the linkage as soon as you start stepping on the gas. At some point, the kickdown will run out of travel and the throttle is only partially open. One may think that the kickdown is binding but in reality it's gone as far as it's supposed to.
I can't tell from the picture if it's connected to the proper linkage on the carb...or if the proper linkage is even there.
Like Gary says...disconnect the linkage and see if it travels smothly. If you have a second set of eyes, have someone look at the linkage at the tranny while you do this. You should see the linkage on the tranny travel counter-clockwise about 45 degrees.

 

81 F100 - 302 - AOD here and I have the tube linkage (to the tranny). That setup is confirmed in my OEM shop manual as well. Or did I misread the cable/tube part to be regarding the tranny link when you guys meant the throttle?

 

I think you read it correctly, we were talking about the transmission's kick-down linkage. But, I'd forgotten that some (early?) AOD's had a link like the C6.

 

I'd forgotten that the AOD came with the link kickdown as well. I had one of these trucks during my teenage years, and surprisingly the link style TV rod is very easy to calibrate and keep in check.

The cable type TV link on the other hand is a different matter altogether.

 

You need to positively ID what trans you have. My 1981 F100 came stock with a 302
and an AOD trans. The TV control rod looks exactly like yours does. If that rod is not
hooked up properly and calibrated to the throttle movement on an AOD you will destroy
the transmission very quickly. If you have a C4 then just get a Holley kit to hookup the
kickdown for the C4. Look at the data plate on the driver's door and post the trans
number. Someone here can decipher it for you.

 

AODs also do not have a vacuum modulator. If the tranny was previously swapped, this would be an easy tell if it were an AOD. Pan shape/pattern too but modulator would be a quick spot.

 

I think i figured out my problem with the kickdown cable. Dumb move on my part i didnt replace the stock bracket from my old intake. going tommorow to pick up new bracket for the intake manifold that should fix my problem.

 

Hope that fixes it. Let us know.

 

Should be only problem.Im hoping i miss my old beater.