94 F150 300 6cyl. 5 speed. 355 gears 2 wheel drive 8th number in vin Y HIGH mileage. Motor had been ran very very low on oil sounded like a diesel when i cranked it. Bout 5sec.
In process of pulling motor and Tranny for motor rebuild.
Looking for all motor parts, pistons, rods, cam bearings, rings, gaskets, etc. for complete rebuild. Hoping to be able to hone and use exist. crank,
Would like to up the HP a little Ideas needed.
Also need some trim pieces, chrome pieces, grill, interior parts also. I know about LMC they are proud of there stuff lol. Other cheaper places if anyone knows of them.
I am mechanically inclined but i am old and have no exp. at all with fuel injected motors. I started taking apart this morn. and man it is a learning exp for sure. I drive a f150 king ranch 05 w/ 46k and interior and ext still looks new interior thanks to my wife lol.
I will be asking lots of ??? as i go and let me thank everyone that responds in advance. I will be trying to restore this truck a little at a time as i need it to get back and forth to work as i work on it. Again sorry for rambling just want folks to know i am a novice when it comes to working on a Ford espesially without a carb on it.

 

Maybe I missed it, but what year is the truck? A little more information re what you have, and what you want to achieve may help with answers. 2wd or 4x4? Daily driver, weekend boat hauler?

If you're doing a rebuild we can assume that you have a machine shop that you're working with. They will be a great place to get the rebuild kit you need, pistons, bearrings etc. Explain to them exactly what you want, and they should be able to get you a good kit at a reasonable price. If you're working with a SDFI motor you need to watch your cam, too much lift or LSA will sive the comp a hard time.

You mentioned that the trk is a 5spd, if it has the M5OD you mine as well replace the shift forks while you have it out, also replace ther oem plugs with brass ones so that you don't have to do it again soon.

Good luck withyour project, Matt.

 

Sorry Matri Truck is a 94 I don't know alot about it at all YET lol. I will take to machine shop. Should have it out today and apart hopefully. Then can asess what it needs. Think for sure someone ran it very low on oil. So crank may need turned or replaced. Going with new pistons so will probabaly bore. I just don't know squat about a ford motor. I raced for 17yrs. (dirt track) and can rebuild a 350 small block in my sleep. But this is a new learning exp. I will let you know what Tranny is for sure this evening. Also 2 wheel drive nothing on it fancy and lots of small whisky dents. Have a sledge hammer lol. 730am here so am heading out in a few min. I will edit my original post to let folks know a little more. Thank you for responding and that little bit helped alot.
What does SDFI mean also LSA???

 

Don't edit your original post. Just keep adding to the bottom. It's a lot easier to follow.

sdfi is speed density fuel injection
lsa is lobe separation angle

The ford fuel injection without a mass air meter will get upset if the cam is too big.
Find a cam that is bigger, but a nice smooth idle and good vacuum signal.

I'm aware that all engines have their own secrets, but for the most part building an engine is building an engine. If your good at building sbc then you'll be just fine at the ford.

 

thanks have it out and on stand. tooke me two days but got it done. Now going to begin the tear apart and then to machine shop. Under valve cover was suprisingly real clean that is a good sign so far. Thanks Untamd understand about hard to follow.

 

don't forget there is also a 300 inline 6 forum too.

Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Fellas on my head there is a metal tube with smaller tubes running into the head with slip nuts. One of the nuts was cracked and i did not notice until i had tried to loosen. Wrench just acted as if the nut was stripped. Tried vise grips but they just colaspse the nut onto the tube. HELP PLEASE if anyone has had this problem is sure could use some advise.

 

Sounds like you are referring to the AIR rail:


It's part of the emission system to inject air into the exhaust.

You can get a replacement here: PCI Inc. - Aftermarket exhaust and emission control parts

 

I use a line wrench to get mine off (9/16" I believe). The nuts are so thin that they are easy to collapse. Spray lots of wd40 or equivalent and let it set. Maybe some quick taps with a hammer on the wrench to break them free.

Go ahead and order a new pipe from PCI (see previous post) They are about $100 for the pipe and nuts. It's not worth reusing them.

Welcome to the site.

 

Again thanks for all the help. That is the part above. Nut colapsed how to remove now that it is is the question. I am taking head to machine shop maybe they can remove it for me. I had line wrenches but all the others seemed to come out fairly easy this one though did not lol. Any ideas on removing now that it is colapsed that I can do without being charged by machine shop. I have to replace it now anyway If i cut it and used an easout inside the tube itself think that might work have sprayed and let sit for two days with nut buster ( as seen on TV) lol.
GREAT SITE THANKS TO EVERYONE MAYBE I CAN HELP SOMEONE WHEN I GET THIS PROJECT COMPLETED

 

Heat..........and plenty of it

 

I think the easy out might work. That was my backup plan before removing mine. But they all came out just fine.

If pci is out of stock on the tube and fittings, let me know. I happen to know where one is. I bought two. Just in case.

 

Prof2113 how do i get in touch with you sir? I have clicked on everything and cannot find a PM anywhere. My e-mail is ccross95@sbcglobal.net or call me @ 817 279 2675 or 817 573 2361 thanks to everyone that has given your suggestions I will let you all know how i get it removed for anyone that might have the same problem in the future. Thanks again fella's

 

I sent you an email. bamarch@hotmail.com is my address.

 

Fella's i got it done. Got the old one off finally and did not mess the threads up at all.
The nut around the tube had collaspsed, and could not use a wrench or vise grips to remove it. I also had two others stuck that were going to do the same think collapse before they loosened. I ended up cutting with a cutting wheel on grinder the Air Rail off these three stuck ones. Then used a 6 point socked and impact to take the two out after spraying Nut Buster and letting soak a few min. The one that had collapsed i drilled out the tube starting off with a bit that just was just a tad bit larger than the inside of tube and progressed until i had tube out. Then on the nut part itself i used Thread die's and kept progressing a little at a time treading and backing up thread a couple turns and backup, with a treader that was just under the actual thread size. Finally after going almost all the way thru the nut part stayed on the threader and backed out. I was elated to say the least.

And a side note a VERY BIG (THANK YOU) to Prof2331 this man not only gave me great advise but went out of his way to get me the part i need. This man is not only a good source of advise but a man of integrity you do not find much anymore. He just wanted to help and asked nothing and i mean nothing in return. I will pay it forward as i go thru this rebuild. I will post when i am thru any and every detail of anything that might no matter how small help someone.
Also a big thanks to SRS Motor Supply in Dallas. Complete rebuild set (excluding Pistons, and Cam Kit) for 242.50 That included a remanufactured Crank kit, and everthing else needed. They were kind enough to meet me in FT.Worth to deliver me the parts. They went out of there way also to make sure i had everthing i needed by asking many questions about the project. And what i forgot they didn't lol. But when they offered to meet me more than half way well i am a customer for life.