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  #16  
Old 03-19-2012, 02:15 PM
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Glad to hear you got it out without too much trouble. I will be looking forward to photos of your process and finished product.

And thank you for your kind comments. Just doing my part. Thanks, Charlie.
 
  #17  
Old 03-20-2012, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof2113
Glad to hear you got it out without too much trouble. I will be looking forward to photos of your process and finished product.

And thank you for your kind comments. Just doing my part. Thanks, Charlie.
I'm glad to see another issue resolved, and another bond formed on this site....Truly, the "Best on the web"...


Which is why I've been here for almost 3 yrs...
 
  #18  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:21 AM
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Prof2331 you did more than just your part. THANK YOU
SideWinder 4.9 your exactly right. We stayed on the tele. for about 30min. and discovered we have been within a 1/2 mi. from each other on occasion. He and his Scout Group built a log cabin at the entrance to the Leanord Scout Reservation and that is only 1/2mi. from where I have lived and had family live there since 1970. Let me tell you this man is a quality person and would have done this for anyone i just happend to be the lucky guy. I will be letting everyone know how the rebuild goes. When it comes to putting it back in and getting the many many wire looms plugged back where they go that will be an ordeal I took many pics. and should have put tape and #'s on each one but did not. I hope the pics will suffice.
So far everything CLEANED including shop. Brother in Law is the guru of the family at building motors I am pretty good, but not like he is. He was putting the pistons in and one he did not like the way if fit and took it back out. AHHGHH he dropped it and broke the skirt so today should pic up the new one already pressed onto the rod. Crank and cam went in great. I will post some pics of it so far if i can figure out how or if i have enough posts to do so. Thanks to EVERYONE including moderator for trying to help me get in touch with Prof2331. Says at the bottom may not post attachments so might have to do some posting to get there lol. Hope i don't offend anyone. Sorry in advance if i happen to step out of line I am new here ya'll remeber that lol.
 
  #19  
Old 03-20-2012, 03:17 PM
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I'm glad you're gonna stick around fer a while there Kid...

But can I please ask 1 thing?

Try to seperate the sentences out a tad more...Makes for some easier reading...


Otherwise, it sounds like we have a reg'lar fellar on here...
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-2012, 09:41 PM
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Sorry SideWinder i get to rambling. I don't have enough posts to put up pics. And am done with rebuild and motor back in and running. NOT RIGHT THOUGH.
Here is my problems. Timing is correct set at 10deg. Motor has a few glitches. First i think it should just crank up without haveing to pump the throttle. Next when it does crank i have to rev it up a few times and kinda blow it out to get it to idle smooth.
Driving it will run up ok but when holding a steady speed 30-55 -65 it will start surging or jerking pretty bad. I give it gas and it speeds up then try to hold a steady speed and it does the same thing. It does idle ok after driving, and starts a little better. Any ideas fellas. Thanks in advance any help sure will be appreciated the thing has led to some major headaches and sleepless nights worring about it. Took it to Auto Zone tonight but they did not know how to run codes on a 94. Said the day shift guy knows how. I will run it up there when i get off work. Any and all help and just reader are so much appreciated. Thanks Charlie in Granbury
 
  #21  
Old 03-29-2012, 12:03 AM
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Getting the codes run will be a good start. Be sure and post them here and these guys will be able to help. I know a few of them, but not all.

Glad to hear you got it in and running. I am sure you will have it purring like a kitten before long.
 
  #22  
Old 03-29-2012, 12:24 AM
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Here's a rundown on checkin the codes. Easy to do yourself
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13
 
  #23  
Old 03-29-2012, 01:33 AM
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Midnight gave you a TON of info in that link...


OR

You can buy an Innova 3145 COde Reader from your local parts house...Makes things a LOT faster, and more simple...Simply read a number...Vs. counting flashes...

They're like $30...
 
  #24  
Old 03-29-2012, 06:41 PM
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Well fella's went to Auto Zone this afternoon. They said they could not read codes if the check engine light was not on. The check engine light does work. The only code that came up was 522 and they said that it was not in park or something to do with being in park. Truck is a standard. Nothing else came up. I am so lost on this.
Is there some way for me to check fuel pressure? My gas smells old. I don't think the truck sat for very long before i bought it and only a couple weeks before i had engine in. When i stopped to fill it up it only held 2-3 gal. I know it was stickered and tagged 10/12 and 11/12 would that be long enough for the gas to go bad?
 
  #25  
Old 03-29-2012, 08:06 PM
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Ok tried the self code checking method. Same code came up # 522. It says not in park or neutral during testing. The truck is in neutral parking brake on. I was wondering if maybe the clutch might have to be engauged. It has to be for it to start. Would that be the same as being in park for the automatic's? That is the only code coming up. Getting dark and no drop light or would try with clutch pushed in. Man i am so lost lol.
 
  #26  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:32 PM
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Ok tried the self test method again today. This time had clutch depressed. Code # 33 came up. That is the EGR valve i believe. Will the EGR cause my problems? Hard start, rough Idle, and surging at a steady speed?
 
  #27  
Old 03-30-2012, 08:23 PM
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On your EGR valve there is a vacum line. When idleing should you feel suction out of the tube on the Valve or should you feel vacum from the line running to the Valve?
 
  #28  
Old 03-30-2012, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kid chuckles
On your EGR valve there is a vacum line. When idleing should you feel suction out of the tube on the Valve or should you feel vacum from the line running to the Valve?
There should be no vacuum applied to the EGR valve under idle conditions.
 
  #29  
Old 03-31-2012, 07:02 AM
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That is why there was none i guess. Which way does the vacum come from when it does get vacum?
 
  #30  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:20 AM
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Thanks to everyone, Espesially Prof2331 and midnight. Brad it is finally running smooth when just driving at steady speed. Midnight the link you posted was essential in finding my problem. I ended up changing the EGR Valve and Sensor. I am not sure that was the problem as it still did the same thing after change. I then found coil wire was corroted in the boots and changed that. I also found one vacum line running to the EGR vacum solenoid that might have been leaking so changed that. Then before starting unhooked positive cable for about 20min. When i cranked it up it ran smooth and drove fine. Now when i got back from short drive 1mile maybe, it was hard to start after sitting about 5 min. Would the Coolant temp sensor help this read it has to do with start up. It is only hard to start after driving and then sitting about 5 min. When cold starts fine and right after killing starts fine.
 
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