Some tune-up tips for the 3V 5.4
#1
Some tune-up tips for the 3V 5.4
I mainly live in the diesel section when I'm here so most of you don't know of me. I'm a master tech down in Texas and work on just about everything. Currently I work on tour buses but still wrench on the side. Got an 06 F-150 in this morning for the nightmare of changing the plugs.
First tip is when working on the pass side of the engine pull the ECM and bracket completely out of the way. Opens up alot of room to get to the last two plugs on that side.
Second tip use the E3 diamond fire plugs. They are a two piece design but are welded together in the hex area. I still use some copper anti seize on them to prevent future problems.
Third tip run two cans of seafoam through the engine first with a full tank of premium. This will help soften up the carbon and make the plugs come out easier.
Final tip is for removal use a 3/8 impact to spin them out. The one I did this morning had 150k+ on it with original plugs. I got on it about five minutes after it showed up. All the coils and other items out of the way in another five. Six of the eight plugs came right out with this method. The two that snapped I got out in about five minutes with the Lisle tool.
Hope this helps some of you with a job that is normally a pain in the butt.
First tip is when working on the pass side of the engine pull the ECM and bracket completely out of the way. Opens up alot of room to get to the last two plugs on that side.
Second tip use the E3 diamond fire plugs. They are a two piece design but are welded together in the hex area. I still use some copper anti seize on them to prevent future problems.
Third tip run two cans of seafoam through the engine first with a full tank of premium. This will help soften up the carbon and make the plugs come out easier.
Final tip is for removal use a 3/8 impact to spin them out. The one I did this morning had 150k+ on it with original plugs. I got on it about five minutes after it showed up. All the coils and other items out of the way in another five. Six of the eight plugs came right out with this method. The two that snapped I got out in about five minutes with the Lisle tool.
Hope this helps some of you with a job that is normally a pain in the butt.
#2
Yeah you about covered all the tips for removing the plugs but I think many around here who have done the plug changes will disagree with the use of the E3 plugs. These engines seem to only like the motorcraft plugs as many people are changing them again within 10-20k if they used something else. A small amount of anti seize and the plugs come back out the next go round so that is easily solved.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
#3
We'll see about longevity on the E3s. I've used them in a couple other trucks when the store had nothing else in stock. I normally use the champions because I've had the 507s break off also. Even if the E3s give an issue I can get them warrantied to the Champions easily enough. I spend about 16K a month with Oreilly's normally so they will do what is needed to keep me happy.
#4
I would stay away from Champions as those are the worst ones in these trucks. If I had to guess I would say about 80% of the people who have changed plugs to Champions have removed them within 20k or less for various reasons. If you would check back in about the plugs so we can know if there are any other options.
Thanks
Thanks
#5
#6
I mainly live in the diesel section when I'm here so most of you don't know of me. I'm a master tech down in Texas and work on just about everything. Currently I work on tour buses but still wrench on the side. Got an 06 F-150 in this morning for the nightmare of changing the plugs.
First tip is when working on the pass side of the engine pull the ECM and bracket completely out of the way. Opens up alot of room to get to the last two plugs on that side.
Second tip use the E3 diamond fire plugs. They are a two piece design but are welded together in the hex area. I still use some copper anti seize on them to prevent future problems.
Third tip run two cans of seafoam through the engine first with a full tank of premium. This will help soften up the carbon and make the plugs come out easier.
Final tip is for removal use a 3/8 impact to spin them out. The one I did this morning had 150k+ on it with original plugs. I got on it about five minutes after it showed up. All the coils and other items out of the way in another five. Six of the eight plugs came right out with this method. The two that snapped I got out in about five minutes with the Lisle tool.
Hope this helps some of you with a job that is normally a pain in the butt.
First tip is when working on the pass side of the engine pull the ECM and bracket completely out of the way. Opens up alot of room to get to the last two plugs on that side.
Second tip use the E3 diamond fire plugs. They are a two piece design but are welded together in the hex area. I still use some copper anti seize on them to prevent future problems.
Third tip run two cans of seafoam through the engine first with a full tank of premium. This will help soften up the carbon and make the plugs come out easier.
Final tip is for removal use a 3/8 impact to spin them out. The one I did this morning had 150k+ on it with original plugs. I got on it about five minutes after it showed up. All the coils and other items out of the way in another five. Six of the eight plugs came right out with this method. The two that snapped I got out in about five minutes with the Lisle tool.
Hope this helps some of you with a job that is normally a pain in the butt.
So if I run 2 cans of Seafoam in my gas tank, this will help a little with the removal of the plugs?
I've seen people but it through the vacuum line I believe.
I have 55,000 on my 2005 F150 and dread doing the plug change.
Whatever tips I can get will help when my knees stop shaking and I decide to do this.
#7
Through the brake booster hose works best but I don't recommend it because if you aren't careful it will hydrolock the engine. Usually a couple cans in the tank with a full tank of premium will help loosen the carbon deposits up. I usually run it through the booster hose but I have been spinning wrenches for over 20 years now and know exactly how much and how fast to pour it in.
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