here is the deal... i rebuilt the motor for my truck (351w) and in the course of being awesome. i pretty much COMPLETELY DRAINED the transmission (E4OD) AND drained the torque converter.

now to break the new cam in i just start the engine and bring it to 3K rps and leave it there [cycle between 1500-3000rmps] for 20-30 min. and to refill the transmission it must be done at idle, row gears and what not.

my question is since the trans in pretty much completely empty wont running the motor hurt the trans? i assume yes. fine how do i fill the trans when i need the motor at 3k rpms... if i unbolt the trans from the block i should be able to run the motor no problem ill just need to make up some kind of bracket for the starter and to keep the engine from falling back on its mounts (since the trans acts as a rear mount via the trans mounts) (making a bracket would be a PITA but do-able so it is my last option

any ideas? how to fill the trans- or at least some way to at least get enough fluid in there so the trans wont be damaged during the cam break in? via test ports or whatever??

or can i run the trans like it is without hurting it (again i assume !!NO!!)

HELP Please!

 

I would say if you have enough people to assist you it could be done. Fill the pan and start it up, have your assistants keep adding to the trans as you break in the cam. So long as you are in neutral and the trans pump has fluid to pump it will be fine. Do you know the trans capacity? Just make sure you get to within a quart or so of that as the brake in process is underway.

 

It can be a little low and not be an issue. If it's completely drained, add all but 2 qts. There should be enough in there to not be a problem. Just make sure to check it at idle after you've broken in the cam to make sure.

If you're really worried, pull the converter. You'll be able to mount your starter but nothing in the trans will move.

 

pull the torque converter.... THATS BRILLIANT why didnt i think about that?

i will consider that one step above pulling the trans and building some kind of bracket. since i will have to pull the trans to pull the converter...

but that is still a good idea, as long as the converter comes off easy... i had to literally CUT the last converter i removed apart to pull it off. with a plasma torch, angle grinder, and saws all. so i will assume that this TC will be stuck as well. - and i cant afford a new converter right now

 

Why pull or build anything??

Can you not put some trans fluid in it then crank it back up??

Did some one weld the dipstick tube shut while you weren't looking??

 

He's worried that since he has to INSTANTLY go to 3k rpms for cam break-in, the empty transmission will be damaged before fluid is properly circulated. And, while a valid concern, isn't gonna be the case.

Yes, you should have filled the TC before you installed it, but you'll be fine...just fill up the transmission like mentioned above it'll be fine. Have some buddies steadily add fluid as you run the engine to break in the cam.

Oh, and obviously..don't try to "row the gears" at 3k rpm, lmao...

 

this!



so it should be fine... after all its not YOUR transmission lol

 

Exactly, it's not my transmission...hahahaha....

No, seriously, from personal experience I honestly believe you'll be fine. If you're really worried, slide the transmission back, pull the TC (should NOT be locked into position. I've seen them hang-up a little, but nothing major), fill it with fluid and re-install, filling the trans with fluid before you start. Up to you though...

 

I really don't see the reason why your concerned..and 3k RPM's? I thought it was 2k..lol anyways just add some fluid to your transmission prior to start, then when you start your motor, rev it to it's cam break in rpm, lock the TB to place, let the engine run for 20 minutes all the while adding fluid to the transmission. Did it with my friends 350SBC/400TH combo and had no ill affects afterwards...

 

1800-2200 RPM is all you need.

 

FYI reading the Crane Cam flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure that just happens to be sitting in front of me...
cool guys, i always expect things to go wrong in my garage... because they usually do! nothing ever happens easy over here. i'll probably go with the 'just keep filling it up as fast as i can' option. keep it 2-3qts low and no rowing gears until i go to drive it.

though i may pull the converter... ugh after fighting with that damn trans getting up in there (took 5 friggen hours of cussing- on the jack, fall off the jack, on the jack, fall off the jack, dump more fluid on me and the floor, on the jack off the jack, crush my hand, break a jack, on the jack off the jack not line up, bolt in, out, in ,out... err)

 

Trans mounting will get easier the more times you do it. It's more an art than a science. And, +1 on the opinion that just putting SOME oil in it for the break-in is OK. For the purpose of temporarily removing the TC, you should be able to leave the rear X-member in place as well. Actually, I've done several trans swaps with it in place, it can be difficult but especially without the right jack it can (literally) be a lifesaver.

Honestly, one of the biggest gripes I have with slushboxes is the god-awful mess involved in installing them. Better get some cat litter and a broom!

 

not my first time installing a transmission... though the first time with such limited working space. not having a car lift sucks. i've been using a motorcycle/atv lift as a tranny jack. so its been a bit of a pain in the butt.

after dumping nearly 16qts of burnt tranny fluid on my garage floor i burned though three bags of absorbent.

i dont know how easy it would be with the x-member in place, but since i already had it off last month it will be easy to re-remove. and the transfer case will come back off again.

its not that its HARD to remove the trans... its just a pain due to the limited work space i have. and the fact that i HATE doing the same work twice. (the only reason i dropped the trans in the first place was because i pulled my motor and when i reinstalled the block i had the new headers bolted on, instead of removing the headers i thought it would be easier to lower the trans, which turned into removing the trans- and so started the fluid saturation of my floor...)

im not a auto fan either... they are heavy, and as far as im concerned impossible to rebuild... though pretty sweet if you get to take completely apart and turn in for scrap... lots of aluminum

egh... someday ill learn just to leave stuff alone

 

Cam break in.Did the factory do that to my Ford? I think not.

 

They might have, but he doesn't have a factory cam anyway.