Well I decided to kit a 1.14 late 2100 variant for this 83 351W I'm bringing back to life and i have decided to go with a "hot-air" choke mechansim that is in my posession from an early 2100. My decisions to do this are probably subject to critisism but that aside, what length of hot-air tube..and what type of material has anyone used to do this? I have found various kits online, and also have talked to a few of those advocate this install but know-one has recommended a length to use to "wrap" or lay alongside the passenger exhaust manifold to accomplish this adequately.

Maybe trial and error is my only way of getting it done but if anyone who has done this recently has any input I would value it. One California carb shop just said.."get some copper pipe and start bending"...if this is what I need to do I WILL do it..just wanted a second opinion...an Arizona shop wants to sell me a "long" air-choke kit with steel pipe...IS this a good idea?.if so, I'm in...just want to be sure.

I have two projects to DO...and I could make them both "auto-choke if it works well so I WILL find out the best way..anyone else's success would benefit me though and I would welcome input...

My carb...

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - JohnSmith3524's Album: It's about the carburators..

thank you all

 

Length of contact surface to manifold isn't critical. A kit will include the fitting already on one end to attach to carb and the asbestos? shield for the tube. Originally it press fit into a boss on the exhaust manifold that was hollow with a filter inside to keep from sucking trash into choke assembly. Some had another tube leaving the bottom and reconnecting to the carb for flow. I have seen 3/16" brake line used and wrapped around a header tube, so you are open to any arrangement you wish. I'd buy a kit. Vintage Mustang vendors have an assortment of kits also.
Manifold end is not open to exhaust gasses.

 

It's good to know that guys are doing it successfully and it helps to know a few of the ideas you've mentioned

thanks again

 

The hot-air choke on a 2100 sources fresh air through the air horn - it then goes down into the exhaust crossover, coils back and then enters the choke housing through a threaded fitting.

See the following thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-answered.html

You should make the tube long enough to go down into the crossover, and loop back. Here is an image that shows the "hidden" part of the choke tube on a Rochester carb - totally different carburetor, but same idea.

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/Adj...s/image012.jpg

 

Thanks for the info, and link to your former "sticky". I was actually looking for this info but wasn't able to search correctly. I have another Ford product that I will adapt this to as well, my runabout "grocery getter" 84 Bronco II. It's now running an early 2100.

Another question if I may..some early 2100 rebuild write-ups show a baffle that seems to be metal inside the plastic choke coil. Specifically on the earliest style of hot-air choke that has the little pull-off piston built into the choke housing itself. Is this baffle really metal??..if so it is mandatory to use a metal one or can a fiber one be used? I gave one of these early style mechanisms I will want to use.

It came one on one of my 1.01's that as near as i can determine is basically a C4. no tag or markings....thanks again for the input.

 

I havent seen a baffle like described on any of many 2100s. As a part of the piston linkage to the shaft, there is a flat baffle like part integral to the linkage on some models. I suggest it itsnt of concern, with or without.

 

When I made the above post I forgot about a bag of parts sitting right in front of me. This is what you may be working with, from a 1.14 1964 carb. No flattened baffle on the linkage.

 

I will include a pic of the baffle plate I was talking about..

The Ranger Station Forums - John Smith's Album: Carb Stuff - Picture

It'a an old article, and that particular piston type pull-off is what is on this 1.01 I have. Ever seen a metal baffle plate?...all the kits have the gasket/fiber one... My early cars were 55-57 Fords after the 49..I never remember ever having problems with the y-block chokes...so i never messed with chokes much back then

 

Ah So, now I understand . It is optional to use or not, IMO and experience. I would just use a ring gasket under the choke cap and let it go.

 

I have maybe 4 or 5 of these carbs with hot air chokes and most all did NOT have anything but a sealing gasket ring..I can imagine how hot that housing could get though so a fresher on what is in there and watching it for any future heat damage probably wouldn't hurt..old parts, older technicians etc....thanks for the reply and info....wish you well in your neck of the woods today...

JS

BTW nice pic in your sig. I remember chasing down "ECZ" heads and manifolds as a teenager working on my 55's-56's...then I used a big Carter AFB....little hard on the FORD 3 speeds, even w/o'drive..

 

Good luck to you too. If you end up needing some miscellaneous choke linkage, I may be able to help.

Yes I still look for the good old heads, even though there are too many on hand now .

 

I have only seen two items go between the choke housing and the choke plate, and it's either or, never both. One is a cardboard gasket, about 1/16" thick that just has holes for the choke tang, vacuum port and heat source. The other is the simple ring. Most rebuild kits usually come with both.

 

I wonder.... warm climate with a solid gasket, vs. cold climate with an open one?

 

I need a hot air choke or an automatic choke i heard hot air is better then electric and also that they ar eboth betterbthan manual

 

My preference is manual, or none. Ford was having a tough time with it's hot air chokes. They changed in design quite a few times in a relatively short period.