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I've read about a dozen threads on this site with tips on how to coax stubborn rear drums off a Ford 9 inch, but mine are still on there.
One tip that seemed like a great idea was to take a file to the gap between the hub and the drum face. I did that, but dig as I might, I can't find the gap. It all seems like one piece of metal. Where should the gap be? Does the axle/hub face with the three holes have square shoulders, or are they tapered?
I took a couple of closeups so you can see what I'm dealing with.
As always, thanks for your help. You folks are great.
__________________ Larry
1960 F100 Custom Cab Styleside
1966 MGB
I have no idea what I'm doing. May as well get started.
I would spray with PB Blaster and let soak for awhile. Then hit the outside of the drum with a good size hammer. Sometimes this method has to be repeated but it always works. If they are hung up only on the end of the axels, perhaps you could put a little heat around the edge of the drum and not the axel itself. The drums will often be hung up on the shoes themselves and then it is truly hammer time!
You will probably need to use ox acetalene torch or mapp gas torch. It has to be hot enough to expand the center of the drum propane will not be hot enough. Heat between the studs on the front of the drum. Dont heat the studs or the axle face. If you get it hot enough the drum will expand and break loose. If the shoes are worn out so they are not contacting the drum it should come right off. If shoes hung up you may need to get a slide hammer with hook ends to grab outside edge of the drum. Hammer lightly between the studs may help loosen not to hard as you will break the drum if you hit to hard. Before you hammer near the studs put the lug nuts back on to flush with the top of the stud so that you dont bugger up the stud threads. I would wear saftey glasses when heating the drum have not had one explode but they do pop with gusto when they come loose.
__________________
1965 F100 4x4 for fun. Name Gentelman Jim
1963 F250 4x4 for restore. Name Beast
1998 F150 4x4 for daily use. Name Birthday Boy
2001 Ford 4x4 Explorer Sport Trac (nice but sucks on MPG its underpowered)
Not sure if the F100 is the same as the F250,but my F250 has a few screws through the drum and into the hub that must be removed.Did you remove yours,if they are there?I ask because,I think I'm seeing a couple screw slots in your photos.It is difficult to see through all the years of rust and crud,but cleaning everything reveals surprises sometimes.Scrape with a beater screwdriver,then chuck up a wire wheel in a cordless drill, and finally degrease/shoot with PB Blaster.
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"Why, yes, I have plenty of spare change, you worthless piece of crap."
'59 F250 w/an Engine, a Transmission, Some Tires/Wheels, PLUS-a Genuine Radio
Look closely at your first picture. The slight change in texture on the snout of the axle flange is where the drum ends.
What I have done is drive one of the wheel studs in so that you can apply penetrating oil where the drum is against the axle flange. I also give the face of the drum several good wacks with a heavy brass hammer. Between the vibrations that causes and the penetrating oil, usually things loosen up. Often the rust is at the face also.
Im surprised propane itself was able to produce enough heat. Hey glad it worked for you. Always a great sound when you hear that break drum pop and come loose.
__________________
1965 F100 4x4 for fun. Name Gentelman Jim
1963 F250 4x4 for restore. Name Beast
1998 F150 4x4 for daily use. Name Birthday Boy
2001 Ford 4x4 Explorer Sport Trac (nice but sucks on MPG its underpowered)
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