Hello all,

First day on the forum. I'm looking to buy a 2010 F250 diesel. I've never owned a diesel. Any questions I should ask the seller? Problems i should look for? buying tips you guys can help me with? I found a great looking lariat with 33,000mi. I don't want to have any regrets. Thanks for the help!

 

Welcome to the forum! I suggest that you always begin by searching the threads as many questions may have been asked before and you'll get answers much faster than asking a new question.

Here are a few threads along the same lines as yours. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask, everyone is very helpful!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...am-i-nuts.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sed-6-4-a.html

 

If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously (any brand), be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.

Key 6.4 maintenance items:

* Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.
* Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.
* Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 10,000 miles at the same time you do the fuel filters for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the entire coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.
* Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.
* Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Deisel-Kleen.
* The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.
* The latest PCM flash does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.
* Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown.

Keep up these maintenance items and you should have few issues unless the truck was abused prior to your purchase. You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty.

 

The links to threads that RM2738 posted are great; especially note the repeated suggestions to purchase extended warranty (get it extended to 7yr/200K if you can) with Ford Factory Warranty.

Keep in mind if the fuel system fails and they find rust in same they will not warranty the repair; I don't think there is a casual way to inspect all the points so ask to speak to the service manager about same. You need to be convinced that you will not be responsible for any lack of maintenance or bad fuel by any previous owner. Maybe suggest they show you how to drain the frame mounted fuel filter for water just to see if it is working okay prior to purchase.

Knowledgeable technicians have stated that the likelihood of an EGR failure increases if the engine has ever overheated; more reason for extended warranty.

These trucks are great and pull great; drink more fuel than the generation preceeding and following though. Maintenance is key.

Wish you good luck with your decision,

Bob

 

An oasis report from the dealer can be nice to show the history of the truck and what has been done to it, you will need the vin to get it. May provide maintance iformation of the previous owner. Mabey ask the owner for maintance info, some people keep that info.

 

Ditto the extended warranty. I bought my 08 SD a year ago and its been a great truck. Got the basic extended warranty too and used it recently to have a tension pulley replaced that had started to chatter. Outside of the fuel drinking thing (which I've mostly "fixed") its a great riding, great pulling truck and seems to be the envy of ally my buddies who bought F-150s!
Ditto on the Oasis report too. That will give you an idea on its warranty history.

DO run an additive through it. That will give you some minimal mpg boost. Banks Diesel makes good DPF on tunes too.
Mostly - check out this forum as well as the POwerstesroke.org forum. Tons of good information that will help you at every step of the way whether you keep it bone stock or you go with mods and tunes. (like most of us)

Find a reputable shop too. I tend to lean toward the dealer for oil changes and basic maintenance. There are a few local indy shops too that do good PSD work too.

Sportster
...have fun - enjoy the truck!

 

Also read this one......I wish I would have.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...echnician.html

Read every post.....all 7 pages.

 

Where can I get these test strips? .....Ford dealership?

 

The dealer *may* have them, I find the parts department isn't really up to speed on them. NAPA and others have the test strips as well, and you can also order them online at http://www.acustrip.com/CTS-3_Retail_Order_Form.pdf

You want the 4pk, not the bottle of 50 unless you have a fleet of trucks. At the high end you should test every 10k so you only need a few a year really and the test strips have an expiration date.

 

Thanks.....found a bottle of them at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $22.