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  #16  
Old 02-22-2012, 02:25 PM
fittyford fittyford is offline
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mercury 2-4-c marine lubricant recommended uses : steering systems,cable linkages,throttle and shift cables and linkages,remote controls,propeller shafts,swivel pins,DRIVE SHAFT SPLINES,tilt lock mechanisms,tilt tubes,hinge pins and trailer wheel bearings,extremely water resistant,won't break down when mixed with water.Contains teflon for added friction reduction and reduced wear.This stuff is used on HINCKLEY (multi-million dollar) YACHTS.My truck does not thump and the downshifts are now smooth due to no more bind at spline.
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2012, 05:12 PM
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So can someone give a non-gearhead a good step-by-step of performing this procedure? I have the bump, without question... trying to determine if this is a project for the driveway or the dealer.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tvsjr View Post
So can someone give a non-gearhead a good step-by-step of performing this procedure? I have the bump, without question... trying to determine if this is a project for the driveway or the dealer.
VERY EASY! You need ford cv boot clamp $8.50 Cv boot clamp pliers $9.00 and Mercury marine grease with teflon (2-4-c) part nbr 92-802863a $10.00 3/8 drive 12mm 12point socket ;assume you have late model F150 2008-2012....
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2009-2010 Ford F-150 Rear Driveshaft Slip/ Bump

Last edited by fittyford; 02-22-2012 at 10:33 PM. Reason: option motorcraft grease
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:37 PM
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VERY EASY! You need ford cv boot clamp $8.50 Cv boot clamp pliers $9.00 and Mercury marine grease with teflon (2-4-c) part nbr 92-802863a $10.00 3/8 drive 12mm 12point socket ;assume you have late model F150 2008-2012....
Click the image to open in full size.
2009-2010 Ford F-150 Rear Driveshaft Slip/ Bump
motorcraft PTFE LUBRICANT XG-8A 1LB CAN $29.00 blue in color looks like blue whip cream /this did not last for me / I prefer the marine grease $10.00 / the splines are teflon coated
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  #20  
Old 03-10-2012, 01:19 AM
fittyford fittyford is offline
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FIX slip yoke thump;cut a 3/4 inch heater hose 2 and 1/4inch long,put it into female slip yoke (sideways) then insert the male end of rear drive shaft into female slip yoke after apply ford xg-8 blue grease.Got this fix from a ford dealer mechanic in Atlanta.So...the hose will be between the female slip yoke and male end rear driveshaft exerting a constant mild pressure between the two preventing a bind that cause THUMP.This is supposed to be a final fix.Good Luck!
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  #21  
Old 03-16-2012, 06:19 PM
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THEY FINALLY GOT IT FIXED!!!
Here is what they did @ ford dealership.
"Test elect transmission. Check Oasis for symptoms. Found TSB 11-08-12. Reprogram PCM & TCM and reset adaptive strategy" They said it is key to do these at the same time. Hope this will help someone else.
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2012, 08:23 PM
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Whoo Hooo Thank you Ford! My annoying slip/ bump is finally fixed and my truck feels like it should have when it rolled off the assy line. Seriously was losing sleep att night thinking this was how a Ford truck was supposed to feel.

My dealer replaced my entire drive-shaft and the shifting and slow-speed driving is fantastic. Even the shudder I had around 20 mph is gone. I don't know what the problem was but my OEM drive-shaft was really rusty looking even when my truck had 20 miles on it. The new one looks to be aluminum, not a hint of rust anywhere on the driveshaft. I've got the two-piece one and it looks like they replaced the entire thing plus the carrier bearing.

If any of you are still suffering from the bump that happens 1/2 second after you come to a complete stop. The re-grease/ boot TSB I had done twice did not work at all. The driveshaft replacement has.
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  #23  
Old 04-16-2012, 09:19 PM
Bart99GT Bart99GT is offline
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slip-bump isn't exclusive to ford. I know a few chebbie owners that have been plagued by this issue as well.

i think chebby was even nickle plating the slip yoke, and they still had problems.

i'm guessing it is not an easy problem to fix, there is a lot of pressure on the splines, and quite a bit of movement.
My 99 TJ did the same thing until I greased the splines on the rear driveshaft when I replaced a noisy U joint a few months ago. There was only a very small amount of lube on it from the factory.

I just used regular high temp bearing grease, so far it hasn't come back after about two months of driving.
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2012, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pool Runner View Post
Whoo Hooo Thank you Ford! My annoying slip/ bump is finally fixed and my truck feels like it should have when it rolled off the assy line. Seriously was losing sleep att night thinking this was how a Ford truck was supposed to feel.

My dealer replaced my entire drive-shaft and the shifting and slow-speed driving is fantastic. Even the shudder I had around 20 mph is gone. I don't know what the problem was but my OEM drive-shaft was really rusty looking even when my truck had 20 miles on it. The new one looks to be aluminum, not a hint of rust anywhere on the driveshaft. I've got the two-piece one and it looks like they replaced the entire thing plus the carrier bearing.

If any of you are still suffering from the bump that happens 1/2 second after you come to a complete stop. The re-grease/ boot TSB I had done twice did not work at all. The driveshaft replacement has.
Glad to see that it worked for you sir. Keep us in the loop on her future performance issues, good bad or otherwise.

Additional post 4-18-12: I crawled under my truck to look things over and much to my amazement, I have the one piece drive shaft and it's aluminum. My truck is an early build 1/2011. It amazes me as to how different some of the truck are based on build dates and locations.

Why would a 4x2 Scab have a two piece drive shaft and my 4x4 has a single piece?
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  #25  
Old 05-14-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pool Runner View Post
Whoo Hooo Thank you Ford! My annoying slip/ bump is finally fixed and my truck feels like it should have when it rolled off the assy line. Seriously was losing sleep att night thinking this was how a Ford truck was supposed to feel.

My dealer replaced my entire drive-shaft and the shifting and slow-speed driving is fantastic. Even the shudder I had around 20 mph is gone. I don't know what the problem was but my OEM drive-shaft was really rusty looking even when my truck had 20 miles on it. The new one looks to be aluminum, not a hint of rust anywhere on the driveshaft. I've got the two-piece one and it looks like they replaced the entire thing plus the carrier bearing.


If any of you are still suffering from the bump that happens 1/2 second after you come to a complete stop. The re-grease/ boot TSB I had done twice did not work at all. The driveshaft replacement has.
Took mine in to the dealer and they are going to replace the driveshaft. I didn't ask, but I hope this means the entire two pieces and the carrier bearing. The tech had found burrs, but didn't specify the exact location. I have already had the slip yoke greased one time.

Looking forward to a real solution. Keep your fingers crossed.
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  #26  
Old 05-15-2012, 06:23 AM
JeepPuller JeepPuller is offline
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I too am getting the bump at stops again. I had the dealer address it 2 years ago, but it is back. Time to get it done again.
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  #27  
Old 05-15-2012, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tseekins View Post
Glad to see that it worked for you sir. Keep us in the loop on her future performance issues, good bad or otherwise.

Additional post 4-18-12: I crawled under my truck to look things over and much to my amazement, I have the one piece drive shaft and it's aluminum. My truck is an early build 1/2011. It amazes me as to how different some of the truck are based on build dates and locations.

Why would a 4x2 Scab have a two piece drive shaft and my 4x4 has a single piece?
My guess is that a two-wheel truck needs a slightly longer drive-shaft as there is no center T-case? A two part unit would be stronger and have less vibration than one super long one. But that's my 2 cents and I am not an engineer.
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  #28  
Old 05-16-2012, 08:45 AM
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Just wanted to add that I've probably put 2500 miles on the new drive shaft, and every everything is still drum tight. I drive this truck pretty hard too.
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  #29  
Old 05-23-2012, 09:41 AM
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I had the same problem 2000 miles ago. Used marine Grease and packed it as full as I could get it. I left the truck sit for about an hour after I tightened the last bolt. Knock on wood no problems yet.
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  #30  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:40 PM
fittyford fittyford is offline
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chillman put the 3/4 heater hose side ways between male and female drive shaft splines and you will never have a problem again,even if there are burs on the splines. I used this solution with xg8 ford blue grease on my truck 5000 miles age and on my nephew 2011 ford 150 ecoboost 3000 miles.This ends your thump PERIOD! If your problem returns,give it a try (marine or xg8 ford blue grease)
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:40 PM
 
 
 
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