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Anyone ever disassembled the pulse hub lock solenoid?

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  #1  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:21 PM
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Anyone ever disassembled the pulse hub lock solenoid?

I'm trying to diagnose ESOF problems, and everything seems to be fine except for pulse hub lock solenoid.

I took off the top cover of the solenoid and found that there are two orifices under a piece of foam with two holes in it. Under the foam and over the forward orifice was a small rubber disk. There was no disk over the rear orifice. I placed the rubber disk over the rear orifice and tried the system with a vacuum gauge.

Prior to moving the disk, I was only getting 4 in. Hg to lock the hubs and no pulse to unlock. After moving the disk, I now get 14 in. Hg to lock and 14 to unlock. I know this should be seven to unlock.

My question is: should there be a disk over each orifice? Was the disk over the wrong orifice?

If anyone has experience disassembling the solenoid and what it should be like on the inside, could you comment? I would hate to buy a new solenoid from the dealer only to find that I could fabricate another rubber disk and fix the problem.

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:52 PM
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One small rubber disk in PVH cap# PA6-GF33

Yes,

I also have one disk in the front valve.

My worthless oppinion, I think the one on front left with the rubber disk is for one way and the other on the bak or right is open for two way atmopher.

Thanks for posting this mystery. Maybe only one disk is best.

How is your transfer to back right side working so far?

c, out...
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:37 AM
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Thanks for the reply.

Turns out, I purchased a new solenoid valve assy. from dealer. They wouldn'tlet me open it up to see unless I bought it. No problem there. It was $88, an I wasn't getting anywhere asking around.

The rubber disk was in the same place as my valve. So I installed new valve, and the system works perfectly now.

So - the disk should be in the forward, or left side of the valve as viewed from the engine.

If I had performed the resistance test on the valve as per the factory manual, which I now have, I would have seen that the valve was bad.

I've heard many people say to use the 4x4 system regularly to keep the parts from atrophying, but I wonder if there is a limited life for the solenoid.

We'll see.

B
 
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:56 PM
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PVH failure and new part supplyer.

Thanks for the tip

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

$74.22 shipping free after the first $100.

I asked this supplyer if they disassemble one of the PVH valves as they all say no so they can not comment on the internal parts.

All I need is the foam pad as mine a 2000 is dry and brittle.

Some conditioner or other additive to the foam could add a longer life to the pad.

Good luck to all readers
 
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:03 PM
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Disassemble bottom diaphragm half this PVH valve.

<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I took off the bottom cover of the solenoid and found that there were a little salt crystals on the outside that is the slots near the diaphragm.<o></o>
Remove cover of the chamber with a small screw driver and pry up with equal pressure all-around to lift the tabs and pop off with both thumbs. Remove large rubber diaphragm, plastic impeller wheel, spring, and bottom plastic rotator wheel all on axle housing.<o></o>
The main chamber is a plastic axle pointing down to the diapram with the only hole up through the middle of axle to suck or push the diaphragm. My guess is that the only thing causing the impeller to spin is air pressure.<o></o>
The parts go back together either way that fits, but the diaphragm shinny side in up. <o></o>
The rest of the PVH valve is seam welded close.<o></o>
Good luck readers. <o></o>
 
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