Here are the photos.

 

Yeah, I'd definitely say someone added several wood crossmsmbers under the bed for added support, whether it needed it or not. All that there should be is a front crossmember under the front bed panel, two in the center; one fore and one aft of the frame rail kick-up over the axle, and the rear bed sill crossmember. All of those are steel and readily available in reproduction from any truck parts vendor.

 

You guys were right. I ripped into the bad floors boards and found that the cross braces are indeed 1x3 boards instead of the steel cross members.... we will refer to that as "hillbilly rigging". It worked, but wasn't right. If I understand the correct construction for the bed .... there is a lip on the bottom interior side of both side walls that forms a lip ABOVE the boards? This floorboard was mounted above that lip and the 1x3 cross braces appeared to be elevated to lie just below that lip. If my assessment is correct then the deck is actually 3/4" too high? In any case, I have ordered new braces for the entire underside, as well as the bed floor and polished slats, etc.

I have to say I am pretty pumped about getting back on this truck. I ordered a new motor last night, which should be here in a week. Once the motor is in, I am headed for painting and new fenders, running board, etc.

 

It sounds like you've got it figured out. The lip at the bottom of the bed side panels sit on top of the ends of the crossmembers, and the wood planks sit on top of all of that.

 

Hey - you "guys were pretty helpful back in Feb & March with my questions about the bed, etc and I wanted to bring you up to speed on my progress....if you have any interest. If not, just ignore me and I will pretend not to notice. anyway -- I bought a new bed, fenders, and running boards to make putting it all back together with new paint etc a little easier. got the new mootor in and runs great.

Bed, rear fenders, tailgate, and front cowl pieces have been painted and look incredible (viper red and pretty bright to the eyes!!). The cab is ready to strip as well as the hood and paint the front fenders and running boards. Everything bodywise was pulled from the truck to allow for painting etc, except for the cab. Hopefully within the next couple of weeks, I can see if it will all go back together.

I will add this -- if you know of anyone who needs the bed, fenders or running boards, let me know. The bed and rear fenders are in good shape, but the front fenders have a little rust and weakness at the joint between the lower and upper fender. In addition, because the hood is off of a '52, and mine is a '51, i may be willing to get ride of the chome trim pieces on the vented sides of the hood. I know they are difficult to find, so let me know if anyone needs them. Mine are in great shape.

 

Good to hear that you're project is getting completed. 51 and 52 hoods are slightly different. The openings in the front are different in size. 51s also have 3 openings in the front, while 52s have 2 openings.

I have a 51 hood that needs body work and minor rust repair, but I'll gladly trade you for your hood since I need a 52 hood for my 52 (has a 51 hood).

Email me at modelking2000 at hotmail dot com if you're interested.

Thanks.

 

Hey. Not sure if you guys are still following this thread but if you are I have a couple of questions as well as a few comments to make. I have diassembled the truck, got it all painted, and am in the process of puting it all back together. Let me know if you are still around.

 

No Billy. We all went to bed Bud.

Hell yes we are still here. We're wondering where you went.

As always we prolly cant help ya with out a batch of new pic's of the paint and other work so far. Time for an update.

 

Not sure if I can say why I am still awake this time of night (3:10 AM) other than that being an old fart I had to get up to go pee, but here I am.

Thanks for the response! Glad you folks are still interested. A couple of comments to tell you the ups and downs of the past few months.

1. Installed the new motor, a new 350 HO turnkey motor from JEGS (sorry die-hards, I know it isn't right but being a WV native, we don't always do things the right way), and the truck runs absolutely awesome. I had changed the rear to a 9" ford from an old Bronco earlier with a 350 gear and a Detroit locker (bad decision, but done so living with it) so it purrs along nicely. Found nice leather buckets from a wrecked Ford Fusion and had a stand built and installed them so it has a great comfy sit.

2. Found someone to agree to paint that did not sound like he wanted to retire with the money he made from it and got into the dismantle. Bought new fenders, bed, and running boards. after disassembly, determined there was too much paint on the cab so spent the $350 to get it media blasted. It turned out the cab was in awesome shape structurally with no damage caused by the media blast.

3. Paint - an etch primer on the new metal, a couple of base gray primers, a white sealer, 3 coats of a Dode Viper red paint with 2 coats of high gloss Clearcoat. Wet sanded with 2000 grit paper and compounded and the finish is superb!!!

4. Now, the reassembly. New wood (red oak with a Golden Oak stain and UV rated Polyurethane in the bed. The bed is on the truck and I should start re-hanging the front end tomorrow or Monday.

Questions ---
1. Door weatherstripping --- a rear Pain in the patoot!! Installed, the door would not shut. Without it, the door is tight with no play at all, but can only latch to the 1st catch of the latch when closed!! I took it off, and cleaned the area the best I could. But, I think I should have it on. What to do??? Ideas to make it fit right??

2. The cowl lacing at the rear of the hood. It came with tacks and a length of canvas looking gasket. Does it glue down with the weatherstrip adhesive? Do the tacks actually hold it?? would small screws be better to use??

3. Does the anti squeak material go between the running boards and the lower valance at the front sides of the bed??

4. Opinions on installing the welting --- yes or no? Fiberglass fenders and steel running boards. The welting seems like it would sit the bright red off nicely, but I am okay with not putting it in if bolting it together without it makes sense too.

5. Step pads for the running boards? Does anyone sell any that actually cover the actual width of the step? The two I have seen in LMC and Mac's etc catalogs only cover about half the depth of the step and appear to set to far to the rolled up side of the running board to actually work. Any thots??

I have pictures, but dont think i am a good enough member to upload them. If someone will let me email them to you, like last time I will gladly send them. Can also text to a phone number.

 

Additional comments ---

My old parts. I have the bed, all 4 fenders and the running boards available. I am in Richmond, VA. the bed is actually in great shape. The rear fenders are almost perfect, the front ones have some rust where the lower and upper fenders meet, but are in great shape considering the age. The running boards are not much to brag about. Strong, but the previous owner had installed diaplate aluminum at the doors and there isa good amount of deterioration under those areas.

My hood was off of a 52 F1, so I opted to remove the chrome strips from the sides. These are in great shape and complete. I also have the original 6 volt horns. I assume they work. I rewired to 12 volt several tears ago so I really am unsure if they work or not.

Anyway, these parts are available if anyone needs them. Certianly, if I could recoup some cash from them I would like to do so, but the wife wants the sheet metal gone before too much longer. She does not have hillbilly blood in her so she does not possess the culture of appreciating car parts lying in the back yard!! The chrome hood pieces I would prefer to seell simply because of the lack of availibility etc. They really are in good shape. I can ship anywhere.

Questions??

 

I wiwll try to post pictures, bt not sure if I can find a way to do it. Any hints?

 

Sometimes people have a Idea! Hey its better than finding a C Clamp holding your front axle. Nice truck there looks in great shape the bed is small potatos.. Good luck to you..

 

Hey Hillbilly,
I hear you on the door weatherstripping - It's thick - I was told it will
get better as it ages a bit & the door will slowly squeeze it down. Hasn't happened yet - driver side is fine - passenger side barely closes & sits out from the truck noticeably. I guess you could try to adjust the latch - tough once it's painted.

Good luck over there. If you email me - I'll post up your pics for you.
ben73058@austin.rr.com. Look forward to seeing it go back together.

Ben in Austin
(Hope your West Virginia Mountaineers are nice to Baylor next week).

 

I'm in need a decent bed and fenders. what would you need to take them off your hands?

 

Johnny - give me a call at 804-307-1951 and we can discuss it. I really have no need of them and "momma" wants them gone, so if you need them I feel certain we can come to terms. Larry Gill