Hey, I got my floorboards, and cab supports replaced. I don't know why I waited so long. If anyone is in Denver, and needs some metal work, let me know. The guy who did mine is a miracle worker.

 

nice job! where did you order the floors and cab mounts from?

 

I got my parts from a variety of places. I got the floor pans from Carolina Classics, the Cab Supports from Dennis Carpenter, and the cab rubber mounts from LMC.

 

Looks really good. Should last another 50 years. I did mine in my '62 years ago before replacement panels were available......
What a huge amount of work!

 

I have to replace my drivers side cab mount on my 62. I was going to do myself but just wondering what did this cost if you don't mind?

 

I bought all the parts, and then I paid $750 for the install. Extras he had to do that you might not think of, are he had to weld plates into both frame mounts because they rusted out. He also replaced all the floor support on the passenger outside, and 4 inches up on both kick panels.

 

Bum,

Looks really good. Kinda looks like he flanged the edge of the hole. Anyway, it really appears to be a nice, nice job.

I know you been working on invisibles for some time. So...my question is: when you gonna get the outside done?

 

Harley,

Yeah I know he flanged it, but you have to be under it to know. I am building a good 20 footer, so that kind of stuff doesn't matter to me. I have a couple more inside projects before I start the save for the outside. I have to get inner and outer front fenders, and a radiator support so, I figure I need at least 2 grand for the parts and the work to get them all in. I will undercoat all the fenders, and the support.

 

Looks really nice. And flanging it shows he has the tools and cares about his work. Replacing those front cab mounts without taking the cab off is a bear.

Ive been there.
I wish I would have used the DC front cab supports. I thought about cutting the ones I got from LMC off, and using the other ones, but its just too much work at this point.

 

Looks GREAT!

I couldn't find anyone who would do it around here without taking the cab off, and by the time I bought the materials, it was cheaper for me to buy a new cab with good floors/mounts... I figured since I'd have to remove the cab anyway- Replacing it was just going to be easier.

 

Bum, I meant that he had done a good job.

I believe I would prefer the added stiffness gained by flanging vs a butt joint at a floor connection. Also, in order to properly make a butt joint disappear it would take a continuous weld bead that was hammer welded. In my mind, based on the location, it would be inferior to the flanged joint, since it would have less strength and would be more costly due to more intense labor.

 

Greg: I dont even think Id want to try a butt joint right there. Trying to hold the pan in place, and get it welded in the right place, not gonna happen, not without adding a catch to hold it in place while welding, then taking it off when done. I just did a lap joint on mine, welded the top and bottom, ground it down, called it good enough. Cant see it unless your under the truck, and the carpet will cover the inside.

 

Looks nice i just did the floor pans and cab mounts on mine and did lap joints to save my sanity!!! I did but joints on my cab corners but they were a lot easier than the floors.

 

I do butt joints reguraly on floor pans. It is best with a body saw with a NARROW blade or cut off wheel with narrow wheel.just trin to about 3/4 " from size.anchor panel,cut around tack every so often,(1"-1 1/2") as cutting.it is not a big deal.short tacks that eventually are one keep heat down. Grind it,if u did it well just a small bit of finishing putty aand wala. Both sides like it never happened,and no pocket to trap moisture like a flange...but that is just me.I am probably a perfectionist.sorry for the long post

 

Now that you got it all opened up, you might want to consider putting some sound proofing in the cab. These things are noisy and you can really cut the road noise without much cost.

Various manufacturers make pads with sticky backs that you just apply to a clean surface.

Good work on the rust abatement. I had to do a ton as well.

Here's the link to my 65: www.photobucket.com/HolmesFordF100