Can't wait to hear if this resolves! Good luck and post the results.

 

Funny we had same p codes too. I will post links to the other forums that are discussing this interesting resolution. To think how much money on wasted engines and unnecessary repairs based on fords recommendations for oil, which seems to be be based more on industry standards than on the needs of this particular engine. That's just my uneducated (in auto mechanics) conspiracy theory.

 

Mine did the same thing when i had a leak in my exhaust manifold. Got any air leak or exhaust leaks going on?.

 

I had the same problem with my 2004 - violent shaking at times. I also developed a rattle upon engine start so I pulled the valve covers and timing cover to find a broken (7 pieces) stationary chain guide and a broken cam phaser (three dowel pins missing). This resulted in the driver side cam not going back to fully advanced position (via the spring). Oil pressure via the VCT solenoid causes the cams to retard. I replaced both cam phasers, both chains and all guides. Problem is gone and it runs quieter than ever.

 

How many miles on that engine of yours?

 

89,000 miles

 

Was your Engine very gunky? Like this?

 

That is Nasty! How many miles on that Engine?

 

150K ... this is what Pennzoil will do to your engine

I plan to use Amsoil SAE 5W-20 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil Product Code: ALMQT-EA
Once I get this motor back together with the Amsoil Oil filter EAO11-EA.

(No I am not a dealer of Amsoil)

 

No - mine wasn't nearly that bad but there was a little sludge. I have been using the Motorcraft 5W-20nk. After replacing the phasers and timing chains I put in a high detergent 15W-30 and thinned it a bit with some Kreen from Kona labs to loosen and remove the gunk/sludge over a 1000 miles or so. Then I will switch to a full synthetic 5W-20.

I also installed the cam phaser lockouts from Livernois Motorsports so as to eliminate the noise and reduce the potential for future failure. Now I have a bad plug I think as it shudders under load at low rpms. Upon removing the coils I found the front two wells on the passenger side had some coolant in them from when I disconnected one of the coolant lines during the timing work. I plan on replacing all the plugs while I am it. This will be the second time. I used nickel antiseize during the first change and they came out easy this time (after 45000 miles). Now I don't know what plugs to put back in?

 

What plugs did you put in last time? I just replaced my plugs... 4 broke, but the Lisle tool kicks a$$ Personally I would stay with the Motorcraft SP515. My Boss GAVE me a set of 8 Champion 7989's of which he tried and his truck ran like crap.... they are going to sit on the shelf!

 

I put in the Motorcraft PZT1Fs - SP-462 maybe? I was able to take them right out w/o any seafoam or de-carbonizing process. I have 8 of the single platinum SP-507s that went on sale just after I changed them last time - but I might go with the SP-515 double platinums this time.

 

When I first got my truck I change all plug , all broke, it took 16 hours. I put in champion. Still ran like crap. Here #5 plug was faulty. I called champion rep and he had 8 new ones mailed out ASAP that were checked out by one of their engineers before they were mailed out. This corrected the problem. This rep also mentioned that champion was working with Ford to become a supplier for the 5.4, 4.6 breakage problem. Time will tell. Or the rep was dreaming. In any case I will be using the champion until I prove them out over time.

 

So I replaced all plugs with the sp-515s and cleaned the COPs again. Truck runs like a champ now - no shuddering, no hesitation and plenty of power.

So now that the engine is running great - the drivers side rear window decided to break during my test drive! It does not seem to be attached to the regulator anymore and just slides down on its own . . . I swear this truck is now cursed . . . . . . .

 

Demon Possessed these Ford F150s.....