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Old 11-18-2014, 06:14 PM
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  #76  
Old 04-29-2014, 10:31 AM
skclouse skclouse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djcoak View Post
Why is no one contacting a lawyer, this has to be a fairly common issue and ripe for a class action lawsuit.

I know multiple people with well over 200k on these motor without even a burp. Weird
Yeah, I have thought the same thing. It is a huge issue with these engines. There is no reason why some start having these issues at 10K and others at 100K.
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  #77  
Old 04-29-2014, 10:37 AM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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Originally Posted by skclouse View Post
Yeah, I have thought the same thing. It is a huge issue with these engines. There is no reason why some start having these issues at 10K and others at 100K.
I wouldn't want a huge payday, I just don't want to get stuck with a huge repair bill for fords mess up and I get that things wear out however this seems to be a known issue and defect with this motor. Problem is I am probably upside down to trade it off now.
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  #78  
Old 04-29-2014, 12:40 PM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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So if this is just a low idle problem why not just bump the idle up?
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  #79  
Old 04-29-2014, 12:44 PM
skclouse skclouse is offline
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Originally Posted by Djcoak View Post
So if this is just a low idle problem why not just bump the idle up?
It's not a low idle problem its a low oil pressure problem. You can bump up the idle but when the oil thins from heat you will still have low pressure which will result in more problems with the engine.
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  #80  
Old 04-29-2014, 08:43 PM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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Seems odd all the 5.4 motors running around are all destroying themselves
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  #81  
Old 04-30-2014, 07:16 AM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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While not our exact problem it looks like the same parts replaced for a good fix as it addresses the low oil pressure to the top of the motor

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
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  #82  
Old 05-02-2014, 02:26 PM
Sleuthsnoopy Sleuthsnoopy is offline
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Curious if anyone has figured out the exact cause other than oil pressure?

I have a 5.4L 2002 Blackwood and I have been trying to diagnose my issue for some time. No codes are thrown and my mechanic put on his computer and said slight misfires in 1,3,4 cylinders with 1 being the worst at 1200 and the others at 3-600.
I replaced the 1234 coils and the truck still has a slight shake at idle, in gear and neutral. Idle is at 700 rpm constantly with no fluctuation. When u start the truck it seems fine then you feel a slight shake in seat and car. Applying throttle takes that shake away.
Same as when driving, it drives great but at stops the truck has a slight shake to it with the Rpms staying the same. It doesn't try to stall out but the shake feels as if it would eventually want to if the problem got worse.

I just had a pcv valve and vacuum line replaced and the valve cover gaskets replaced (oil in plug holes) as well as spark plugs and had that done cause of this shake but it is still there.

there is a loader than usual suction through the intake hose that goes to the EGR valve by the brake booster. I can squeeze the hose to stop the sound but it doesn't seem to change the engine rpm.
I cleaned the IAC and the MAF but nothing seems to take the shake away. it's not a bad shake its just not something that it should be doing. When I cleaned the IAC it had a whine from the cold air intake but went away so chalked that up to a hiccup.

I have been reading here and other places and thought I would replace the IAC and the EGR but didn't want to spend the money if it would be just one of them.
I even thought maybe it was the balancer or the timing.

I posted here because it seems my problem is about the same minus the knocking noise.

Thanks

Well I ruled out the IAC cause I replaced it. It still has a slight shake. revving it up it seems lil it turns into a vibration between 1500-2000Rpm. Ofcourse when I replaced it it seemed better but that was a fleeting moment. lol So I'm back to thinking its an injector cause replacing the IAC the noise of suction out of the one vacuum hose is gone but the shake remains.

Can't be the torque converter so maybe the harmonic balancer or just 1-2 injectors which I just put in a bottle of techron since two bottles of lucas didn't help. Idk

Last edited by Sleuthsnoopy; 05-02-2014 at 03:37 PM. Reason: update-
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  #83  
Old 05-02-2014, 05:01 PM
Sleuthsnoopy Sleuthsnoopy is offline
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I reset the Pcm hoping that would fix the issue but it remains the same.
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  #84  
Old 05-02-2014, 10:16 PM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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Talked with my mechanic. The fix is a new engine. You can fix it temporarily but the engine will eventually go. I am ditching my truck ASAP.
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  #85  
Old 05-04-2014, 09:45 PM
Sleuthsnoopy Sleuthsnoopy is offline
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Curious... I tired to test the engine with out the serpentine belt but I couldn't even budge the tensioner. Hmmm.

Also my EGR valve is way back under the cowl behind the firewall so I unhooked the hose from the solenoid and at idle when cold the EGR had suction. Even when at operating temp the EGR had suction. I thought it was suppose to close? I test the other tube from solenoid (white hose) on other side of engine and it had suction as well to suggest the solenoid was open at cold and at hot.
So I am guessing that means the solenoid is bad since at one of them, cold or hot, the erg is suppose to be closed and the way my test went it would suggest to me that both items are bad. EGR and EGR solenoid, right?

Thanks
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  #86  
Old 05-04-2014, 09:48 PM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleuthsnoopy View Post
Curious... I tired to test the engine with out the serpentine belt but I couldn't even budge the tensioner. Hmmm.

Also my EGR valve is way back under the cowl behind the firewall so I unhooked the hose from the solenoid and at idle when cold the EGR had suction. Even when at operating temp the EGR had suction. I thought it was suppose to close? I test the other tube from solenoid (white hose) on other side of engine and it had suction as well to suggest the solenoid was open at cold and at hot.
So I am guessing that means the solenoid is bad since at one of them, cold or hot, the erg is suppose to be closed and the way my test went it would suggest to me that both items are bad. EGR and EGR solenoid, right?

Thanks
You might have a different issue than most of us here.
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  #87  
Old 05-06-2014, 09:17 AM
Djcoak Djcoak is offline
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My problem is fixed. I pick up my 2014 silverado tomm. It's a shame, I liked my F150 but if I factor in an engine change, the monthly cost is only 20 dollars less than a new truck. I can't afford the downtime or hassle either. So it will go to auction and someone else can deal with it. This is the last POS ford I will ever own.
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  #88  
Old 12-10-2014, 12:48 PM
bobsoutdoors bobsoutdoors is offline
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same issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crissyfl View Post
We have a 2004 late model f150 and just went through the same issue, shake at low idle, knocking and same p codes, ours also had the 22 code which i Think is low oil preasure and it seemed like the transmission was about to go. Mind you this didn't happen all at once, the condition had been deteriorating over time. We change the oil and filter ever 6k miles. Before we took it to the shop, i read horror stories of thes symptoms and folks replacing cam sensors, VCR, timing chains...etc, and thousands of dollars later symptoms remained. Since I know the p codes pointed to cam sensors, and I know many times that didn't resolve, I wanted to have them go right for the timing chain looking for a skipped tooth. My husband went against my recommendation and took it to his ford Truck expert mechanic. A week later and 1800 dollars the mechanic called and said their is sludge all over the engine, the truck barely runs, not to waste any more money to get a new engine...

So my husband told me this news, i did not believe this diagnosis. So i did a lot of research and came to the conclusion that we needed to chane the oil to 15-40 diesel. I told my husband to call his expert mechanic and tell him to humor you and put in that oil.

My husband was laughing, thinking how rediculous this idea was. But since the alternative was to get it towed for a second opinion or buy a new engine and tranny, he went with it.

Well the next day the mechanic calls and says he can't believe it but the 15-40 oil resolved all the issues. Knocking, stalling at idle, rough idle, transmission symptoms, running like a diesel oh and the ticking... GONE.

I found at least 10 other people who have resolved these issues with the 15-40.

I wish someone had posted this resolution with more clarity so that we could have done this first and saved 1800$ and a lot of stress.

Good luck
Hi.
I had to sign up to respond to this post. You just saved me about 7-8 grand for new motor.
my truck had same engine code p 0022 and rough idle and shaking. Mechanic told me same thing and I tried the diesel 15w40 oil and it has fixed ALL the issues as described in this post. Please try this 30-40 dollar fix. Thanks for the info.
Bob.
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  #89  
Old 12-10-2014, 01:40 PM
alwaysFlOoReD alwaysFlOoReD is offline
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Using 15w-40 synthetic gave me an extra two years and 30,000 km before the engine finally gave up the ghost. Well worth the time.

Richard
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  #90  
Old 12-18-2014, 09:36 AM
Richardtcp Richardtcp is offline
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Thanks for the post: worked on my 2007 Mark Lt.

I just wanted to say thanks for post. I have a 2007 Lincoln Mark LT which had the same issue. Ford dealer, after telling me it was the transmission and just needed a drain an flush, decided when that didn't work that it must be the timing tensioner needed replacement because it wasn't allowing the timing to retard at idle. I read your post, changed the oil and the fuel filter and wala! Truck runs fine.....amazing! Fords recommeded cost of repair just under 3000.00, actual cost for oil change + fuel filter and a few other things (like new windshield wipers) from Jiffy Lube just under 200.00...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crissyfl View Post
We have a 2004 late model f150 and just went through the same issue, shake at low idle, knocking and same p codes, ours also had the 22 code which i Think is low oil preasure and it seemed like the transmission was about to go. Mind you this didn't happen all at once, the condition had been deteriorating over time. We change the oil and filter ever 6k miles. Before we took it to the shop, i read horror stories of thes symptoms and folks replacing cam sensors, VCR, timing chains...etc, and thousands of dollars later symptoms remained. Since I know the p codes pointed to cam sensors, and I know many times that didn't resolve, I wanted to have them go right for the timing chain looking for a skipped tooth. My husband went against my recommendation and took it to his ford Truck expert mechanic. A week later and 1800 dollars the mechanic called and said their is sludge all over the engine, the truck barely runs, not to waste any more money to get a new engine...

So my husband told me this news, i did not believe this diagnosis. So i did a lot of research and came to the conclusion that we needed to chane the oil to 15-40 diesel. I told my husband to call his expert mechanic and tell him to humor you and put in that oil.

My husband was laughing, thinking how rediculous this idea was. But since the alternative was to get it towed for a second opinion or buy a new engine and tranny, he went with it.

Well the next day the mechanic calls and says he can't believe it but the 15-40 oil resolved all the issues. Knocking, stalling at idle, rough idle, transmission symptoms, running like a diesel oh and the ticking... GONE.

I found at least 10 other people who have resolved these issues with the 15-40.

I wish someone had posted this resolution with more clarity so that we could have done this first and saved 1800$ and a lot of stress.

Good luck
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:36 AM
 
 
 
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