It's running great. It has a long crank if it has sat, like about 4-5 seconds. I'm trying to stay ahead of the curve, but sometimes I think it would be better to wait until it is DOA.

The $460 was for diagnosis, and a totally unnecessary ICP sensor. That is where I cut my losses and hit the door running.

Good luck jerkypants.

 

It took me longer to build the tool to test it than it did for me to test and find the problem. If you have access to compressed air, it's about 10 bucks worth of parts to build a tool. If you want to see a pic of the one I built, search "no start last night" and go to the 2nd page.
*Edit* Or, I could quit being lazy and give you a link...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-night-2.html

 

jerkypants, not to stir the pot a little, but I take offense to your statement that you have zero faith in Ford dealerships. May I ask why that is? Have you had multiple bad experiences with the dealerships in your neck of the woods? Did any of the dealerships you brought your truck to, have DIESEL CERTIFIED techs? Or were you just making that statement because it's easier to take your frustrations out on a dealership, or shall I say "stealership" as some of you guys like to call it? With regards to your particular problem, might I interest you in taking the time to read through all pages of this thread? Here it is:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mall-shop.html

In this particular instance, a small shop had brought the truck in, for a diagnosis, AFTER he had already shot-gunned TWO sets of eight injectors along with various other parts in an unsuccessful attempt to repair a no-start while up to operating temperature concern. After I put my time in, to submit a quote to bring the vehicle back to looking the way it's supposed to look (instead of looking like a hacker went to town on it), along with fixing the concern, the shop owner dropped the ball on me. I was EXTREMELY pissed that I put my time in, with the sincerest intent on fixing this guy's truck only to be jerked over, and hence the thread I started in the pasted link.

Please take the time to read it over before you make any more degoratory comments like that about dealerships in general. And BTW, if you were closer to me, I would be more than happy to fix your truck for in a timely manner. And I'm sure you wouldn't object to what I would charge you to do so. Ask some fellow members on this forum who have had personal dealings with me and they'll tell you. I take my reputation seriously.

 

Well... Mr m-chan68, how very interesting that you have chimed in.
I could take offense to you taking offense, but I have more respect for peoples opinions than that, at the very least I allow a chance at a sturdy argument to back up ones opinion.
In your case however, I allude to it being interesting because I may be your biggest fan. I read all of your threads, I believe you to be highly intelligent and incredibly capable of doing and being all that you say about yourself in my thread, and more.
I would give my left nut, to have you work on my truck, I know how dedicated and serious you are about your work,If only everyone had the work ethic that you do. But...

FACT=they don't

In fact you bring up a typical ford dealership issue. What gives a ford dealership the right to have anyone but a certified diesel mechanic working on a diesel? And to answer your original query yes I have had numerous bad experiences with shady dealerships, my wife worked at one and relayed all the horror stories on a nightly basis, showroom and garage.
However at the end of the day I am a Ford Truck Lover
My apologies to you Mr m-chan68, and once again, I do hold you in high esteem. And to all of you on here that feels my thread applies to them. It doesn't, it only applies to the bad people, the very bad people.

To the rest of you, again my thanks, and my apologies, there are a few of you on here who I also follow pretty regularly your all highly knowledgeable and thoroghly great at helping out on here.

Also...bravo m-chan...for sticking up for your brethren and beliefs.

Incidently, I shall now set forth to read your thread, thanks for the heads up.

 

Personal experience in Ford dealerships... OK back in the 70's, worse in the 80's, absolute worst in the 90's...the last few years...awesome! I don't take my truck there except for flashes and tranny flushes, but thyey have done a HUGE turnaround, and now my local dealership has my respect again. They talk with me, service advisor has let me back in the shop to see the cab off's... I'm teaching the parts wench stuff everytime I go in there...

 

Well...my baby is at Hampton Ford in Hampton, New Hampshire, going for the air test. I will let ya all know the results.

 

Okay...I would love some feedback on this

Ford says there is a leak at the stc fitting, and somewhere on the right valve cover. Sound good? Sould they know where on the right valve cover?

He didn't give me a price on the one valve cover and fitting, but said I might as well go in and do the left valve cover at the same time. $2300 or so.

Thoughts on all of this, one side both sides? Just looking for some information to help me along.

 

I agree you should repair all the leak prone points. Left, right, and the STC in the center. That price is in line with the quote Ford gave me. It is on the high side, which you can expect from a dealership shop.

 

Whew! Glad to see that that got settled without shots being fired! LOL. Very professional and informative responses by all in the end. Can't wait to hear the results of the air test. Jerkypants, I have the "No Power Issue Post". Truck was starting and running smooth, just had no power. Could barely get to 50 mph. In fact, I had to be careful not to park on a piece of gum or else I might get stuck.
It would not build more than about 1000 psi of HPO pressure (AE diagnostics). I consider myself a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but without the help of many in here (cheezit, npccpartsman, blade35......to name a few) i would still be lost trying to figure out this 6.0L. My hat is off and I am forever greatfull to all and anyone who offers their advice and time to help others "For Free" on here. Hopefully I can repay the favor to these guys some way some how some day.
These engines seems to bring out the beast in all of us. I am pretty sure I narrowed the problem down to the HPOP. Everything down stream of the pump tested ok with 120 psi of air. That may have not been enough pressure but hopefully it was. The bad thing is I had no way to bench test or dead head the pump. I am now reassembling slowly with, new HPOP, EGR cooler delete, IPR, and ICP sensor. I am at 130K miles so I threw in a new oil cooler too. Mostly because I wanted to cut my old one up to see if it was plugged. Surprisingly enough it was very, very clean. Oh, and I reconditioned the turbo while I had it out too.I should be ready to crank it up by Saturday afternoon. I will post my results on my post original post. If this doesn't fix my problem, at least everything else in the HPO system will be accessable from under the valve covers.

 

Unfortunately 2300 is out of my range.
I am going to pick it up in the am, and try to attempt it myself.
They already had the valve cover off, cocky *******s. I have no choice but to pull it and do it myself.
Incidently he said the right valve was leaking on the first call, on the last call he wanted to know if i wanted to go ahead and do the one side since the left valve cover was already off. Interesting huh?

I wll be needing help on this one.
Any special tools i need right off the bat?

 

I'm not jerkypants, but I'm happy to tell you why I have so little faith in Ford shops. Took my truck in for diagnosis on a long crank. I could see on my monitor that the IC pressure was slow to build, but once it reached 500psi the PCM would turn on the injector pulses and the engine would roar to life. Now, I think it has an HPO leak. The service adviser thinks it has an HPO leak. We all know the symptoms, and the SA has seen plenty of them.

Three working days later the tech can't find any leak, but says my ICP is definitely bad. SA asks my permission to change it for $400 plus dollars. Of course I'm skeptical, but I'm trying to keep my faith level above zero, so I approve it. Of course changing it makes absolutely no difference in the crank time. It is pretty clear to me they were just experimenting with parts, either hoping to get lucky, or in an effort to recoup some diagnostic labor. I was quoted $150 to diagnose, which I though was fair, if it had resulted in a diagnosis.

Of course, they still won't admit that the ICP was fine. They do want to replace the STC and standpipes, but cannot guarantee that this is the problem, but it will cost me $2,500 to find out.

I have other diesel shop options that I trust. But I took it to the dealer because it is closer to home, and this should have been a very straightforward issue to diagnose, and even if it cost a little more at a dealership, I would like to nurture a relationship. It appears that this is not going to happen.

Yes, this shop has "several" diesel certified technicians, and they work on Powerstrokes every day. I know, because I see them in the service entry lane every time I go there. This is a very large and nicely appointed dealership. I did not get to choose which technician was assigned my truck. Was not introduced to the gentleman.

Note, cost was never an issue here. I'm only interested in value and results.

I definitely do not paint all dealers, nor all dealer techs with the same broad brush. Especially not those who give so freely of their time here at FTE. But you tell me - was I treated fairly?

I asked for and received my old ICP sensor. Would you like to test it? Want to bet on the results?

 

m-chan68 where art thou?

I will once again clarify my original statement, then follow up with proof positive of my claim from the phone call I just hung up with 3 minutes ago.

I am not painting all dealerships and I never mentioned mechanics in my outburst on dealerships and honesty.

Earlier I neglected to mention how in the order of lifes lowest organisms, and i'm talking about the unmoral stinky brown **** you wipe off your shoe. Ford dealerships (i've only owned fords) are the lowest, unmoral pieces of crap that breathe. A few notches below salesmen, and the people on the floor.

I spoke to the service manager yesterday, i said i will call you in the am. I called this morning and clearly stated to go ahead and do the air test, and call me with the results. He said it would be a couple of hours, just under two hundred dollars. I said fine, just let me know when your done.
He called with the results, and the cost to repair, 2300 dollars, i said I will come and pick it up, thank you for your trouble.
I just hung up the phone with him, he just wanted to touch base because he wont be there when i pick it up, it will be 569.70. I said how is that? Well...this morning you told me to go ahead and test it and then you said to go ahead and go deeper. I said stop! Do you think I can't remember a conversation I had this morning? Really? Here allow me...you called and told me the results of your air test, then you told me the cost of the repair, I then said to you; I'll come and pick it up. At which point you said, but i already have the valve cover off. To which I replied, well put it back on. To which you retorted, well do you want to do the one side since we have the cover off (wrong side/side w/out leak-refer to earlier post) to which i said no. I thought you told me to go deeper into it? Well you thought wrong, I will pay you for the two hours diag fee and i will pick it up in the morning, thank you for your troubles sir. It's always the same with those scumbags.

I am sure there are good ones out there, Grappone Ford in NH is supposed to be superb, plus killer, unheard of deals on filters. I know there are good, moral, people out there. I also know that just because the dealership or the service manager is trying to screw me, it doesn't reflect on the mechanics.

Another happy customer signs off on this one.

WHEW! Oh...you'll be hearing from me when I start to try and fix this thing with just common sense, analytical intelligence and luck on my side. I could kick myself for not taking auto mechanics in high school and getting interested in it earlier.

Jerkypants...Out

 

Just teasing m-chan68, I hope you have a good sense of humor. I respect your morals and stance. You are truly godlike on here. Be well.

 

Oh yes time to suck up now!! LOL
For what it is worth I have posted recent pics of my tear down all the way to the HPOP in my albums. The album is called HPOP. Mine is an 04 so the pump and the STC is different, but it will give you a good idea of what has to come off to get to the HPOP and STC. Youtube also has tons of videos that are very helpful. I will post some more pics of the new oil cooler going in and my cut up old one too.

 

Okay jerkypants, if you want to rid yourself of all the COMMON high pressure oil system leaks on all '05 yo '07 model year 6.0L trucks, go to the parts department when you pick up your truck, and ask for part numbers 4C3Z-9B246-F, -W302908 (two needed), -W300013 (four needed) and -W300051 (four needed).

Now, onto sizes of fasteners. 10mm for the FICM mounting bracket, EBP sensor tube to bracket and dipstick tube on the driver side. 10 and 8mm for the air inlet and FICM top mounting brackets. 8mm for the y-pipe to high pressure oil pump heat shield (FOUR bolts in total, and yeah have fun with the two at the back of the HPOP cover). 10mm for four GPCM mounting brack and one 10mm for the transmission dipstick tube to valve cover stud. Each valve cover has eleven 12mm studs/bolts to remove. Once removed, get your 10mm allen head to remove the dummy rail plugs. Install the updated plugs with a 12mm allen head and torque to 60 ft-lbs. Now re-install the valve cover.

Onto your STC fitting. Remove the coolant degas bottle (two 8mm bolts). Remove the plastic pushpins that secure the underhood harness support to the cowl and route it up over the wiper arm. Remove the turbo (11mm deep sockets needed for the hot side CAC tube clamps. SOAK and I mean SOAK the exhaust down pipe and up pipe clamps LIBERALLY with PB Blaster. 11mm deep sockets for the exhaust marmon clamps are needed in order to loosen them. Once loosened, WHACK them loose with a hammer and prybar. Remove the turbo (three 10mm bolts to pedestal, two 10mm bolts and one 8mm bolt for the oil supply). Remove the pedestal (four 10mm bolts). LOOSEN the EGR cooler clamp (11mm deep socket). REMOVE the upper exhaust manifold to up pipe nut and bolt on each side (HAVE FUN WITH THIS). LOOSEN the lower exhaust manifold to up pipe nut and bolt on each side. REMOVE the turbo drain tube. REMOVE the IPR valve (Special Socket needed). Remove all eight 8mm high pressure oil pump bolts (except two that are under the EGR cooler that won't come out due to clearance issues). FINESSE the cover off taking care NOT to allow the two bolts still in the cover into the engine, or you'll be taking the engine apart to fish them out.

TO BE CONTINUED..........