I have added a low fuel light to my dual tank ’89 F150. I turns on when the fuel level of the selected tank drops below about 3/16 of full.

Here is the light on (low fuel).
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Here it is off.
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I removed this board from a ’93 T bird gauge cluster. It has five connectors, in order left to right on the picture:<O</O
1. ground for the indicator light<O</O
2. positive supply for the board and the positive for the light ...<O</O
3. ground for the board (to chassis)<O</O
plastic lock
4. fuel level out<O</O
5. fuel level in<O</O
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I placed the unit in a plastic box behind the dash above the steering column. I used the indicator light ground to go to the indicator light ground (duh). I used the switched radio positive lead for the positive supply and indicator lamp positive. I used chassis for the ground. I connected the fuel level out to the yellow with white stripe wire from the back of the fuel tank switch. I tapped into it. I did NOT cut the wire!
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I chose to install a small LED in the instrument cluster for the indicator light. I drilled a small pilot hole less than 1/32” wide in the front of the fuel gauge panel to the left of the “E” mindful of clearance of the metal gauge body in the back and so as not to impact panel lighting. I then drilled a hole the width of the LED from the back only to the depth of the LED height. That leaves only a small hole visible from the front. The first hole was done in the front by hand using a small bit to eliminate chipping of the panel. The led is glued in with a drop of crazy glue on the back of the panel, NOT in the hole. The cluster does not need to be removed. The small finger drill and bits I bought from micro-tools.com. I get stuff from there when I repair old cameras.




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<O</OI used a T1 red led Radio shack part number 276-026 with a 470 ohm resistor, part number 271-009. The resistor. The negative from the board attaches to the short wire on the LED. The positive from the board attaches to the long LED lead. The resistor goes in line on either lead. The wires are routed out of the cluster bucket through a small hole drilled in the SIDE of the bucket, avoiding the cluster wire film.
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The installation looks nice. The hole for the light is so small so as not to be noticed unless the light is on. You can open up the hole wider later if you want a bigger brighter light. Less than 1/32" is easily noticable in LA on a sunny day when on and invisible when off.

Obviously you can use any light any where you want but I liked the stock look.

The choice of the fourth connector on the board may seem a bit odd. The schematics show that it should be connector five, but it does not work!

I got this idea from a picture on another forum by a Steve83.

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Good luck,

 

I was wondering how to do this very thing. THANKS!! great built thread, I like the stock look also. Very suddle custom work is what I love.

Is that LED light bulbs?!? If so, where did you get them, part #?

 

This does not change the function of the ENGINE light logic, based on the value of the oil pressure and water temperature.

 

I used a T1 red led Radio shack part number 276-026 with a 470 ohm resistor, part number 271-009.

 

forgot a close up of the light off

 

Yeah man, I got that. I should have been more specific. Is that led light bulbs in your cluster, like the CEL light, and battery light, ect?

 

I think this is a cool upgrade too. I really dig subtle stuff that was a factory upgrade or option or looks like it could have been.

 

Nice writeup, reps given!

 

I agree. Reps to you.

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The gauge itself is a three layer unit. The top is a 1/64" black and translucent sheet that has the graphics. It is the only part seen by the driver. The middle layer is the structural part. It is 1/8" thick and is clear and holds everything together. The third part is 5/64" clear lucite light bar that transmits the light from the bulb to the appropriate areas.

The pilot hole, drilled from the front, goes through ALL three layers. The hole for the LED is drilled from the back, into the pilot hole. It extends only into the light bar, not the middle structural part. It is very easy constantly checking the depth of the LED hole as it is drilled. I used a finger drill and went very slowly.

Here is a picture of me drilling the pilot hole in the front of the gas gauge panel. I used a very small bit, smaller than 1/32". That location in the panel does not effect the illumination of the gas gauge and misses the metal gauge housing behind the panel.



The wider hole that the LED sits in is drilled from the BACK. I think the wider hole is 3/32" or 1/8". I just sized it to the width of the LED. The hole does not go through to the front. It is only deep enough to hold the small LED I bought. I drilled it very slowly, with my fingers turning the bit, constantly checking the depth of the hole against the LED. I stopped drilling when the flange reached the lucite light bar.

The entire drilling process took about 20 minutes. It is easy, go slow. My hands have a tremor and I can do a nice job.

I used just a touch of crazy glue (cryanoactolate) on the LED flange and the light bar, NOT IN THE HOLE! I let it dry overnight.

Here are pictures of the hole from the front, light on and light off.