Ohh man here we go, ive seen on some chev's that you need and exhaut manifold spreader but ive never come across this on any of the many fords ive owned. Trying to get the manifolds lined up with the heads is seemingly impossible ( and im doing the easy driver side). I have all but the rear bolts in and its at least a 1/4" off from lining up. I have tried my pry bar, and not even close, it wont budge. is there a trick to this?? i had the manifolds off my 1969 (351w) many of times and never had a problem going back in... Im thinking about taking my bolts out and starting with the rear and moving toward the front..... what a friggin PITA. Seemed funny when i was checking the gaskets against the maifolds on my bench they didnt line up perfectly so I knew the manifolds would need "motivation" to line back up..im taking a pizza break and ill try again in a little bit.


sorry just had to vent a little

 

first you dont need gaskets when installing stock manifolds.

I would get studs for the front and rear bolt holes. then install bolts from the center working your way out in either direction.

are these manifolds new or used? if they are used they are probably warped

 

They are the same stock ones that cane off of it. No gaskets, really...? I didn't know that. That will make it easier. I need top get some studs most of mine broke on diassembly

 

I did some reading, so just a film of chassis grease. cool easy enough. Same as wheel bearing grease? Or is chassis grease something different? Maybe ive just not used to it being called chassis grease.

 

I use clear silicone on all the ones I replace, which is quite a few.

 

What about the high temp orange permatex? Going to grab some studs and grease (of some sort) after work

 

That orange crap sucks *****. I use 100% bathtub clear silicone that I buy at the hardware store.

 

where do you use the clear silicone? and does it hold to that temperatures?.

 

From reading a different thread, the chassis grease melts or cooks to form a varnish which seals it up. silicone must do the same type of thing if its been working for Critter....

 

put a strait edge on your manifolds, i bet you will find them warped in which case you probably wont ever get them to seal properly. why not install some shorty headers?

 

Thought about it, ive already spent a ton fixing things in the last 6 months. Funding is getting dry. I don't know if I want to deal with header bolts coming loose all the time on my dd. I know there are some locking bolts out there but by the time I get headers, bolts and wrap it would be another 500 dollar bill.... Ill check tonight but I don't think there warped, that way....

 

You could get new headers to replace the manifold for $140 - $160 from Summit or Amazon, and the ARP hardware is around $55.

 

You could also get headers for cheaper on Ebay, sometimes new sometimes used. Thats where i plan to get my fender exit headers for my 400

 

are the 150 dollar headers worth a squat tho? I checked my manifolds with a straight edge last night there dead on. lll try the studs this afternoon and if they work, ill keep it for a while. I was planning on a y pipe anyway... Updates to follow

 

i didnt bother with those high dollar bolts. the key is getting allen header bolts that are at least 1" in length and a great quality gasket like Percys. I retightend my header bolts 500 miles after install and they havent needed touched since.