Well, I decided to try a restoration thread for my engine. I won't call it a rebuild thread because that indicates some type of skill in working on engines.
Hopefully this will help me learn more about what I'm doing as well as help someone else that might be doing this work as well.
I bought my truck from my wife's grandpa back in 2002. I started to work on getting the engine running, but our third child came along and the city decided they didn't like my truck parked in my driveway since it didn't run. So it sat at my in-laws until we moved into our current house with a garage. At that time, I decided to tear everything down to the frame....boy lots of learning to do.
This motor ran when parked (in about 1972) I was told it had about 30,000 miles on the rebuild from Consolidated Rebuilders out of Hutchinson Kansas.
Here are some specs on the motor:
Motor #: EBV94250
Driver side: EBV-B
Passenger side: ECG-C (Note this is a head for 272 so they do interchange)
Intake Manifold: EBV94250
Well, I painted the valve covers black before I got into what the original colors actually were. I also painted my water pump black....
Now the oil pan was yellow, notice the color of it as I was pulling it off the frame.
Of course there is the 195 post "How to properly color a Y-Block?" thread http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/29...a-y-block.html
Interesting read with no real consensus. But pictures do show the oil pan yellow. Post #55 has a good factory picture.
My main goal is to just get it working without breaking the bank...If I can keep it close to stock that's great too.
Edit: Just checked out your truck and engine, very nice!! My truck was originally sea sprite green as well, at this point that's what I'm going with. Mine had a aftermarket flatbed on it, so I'm going to keep some sort of flatbed, maybe all wood.....that doesn't make me a darksider does it?
Looking good there, Harrier. I believe I would leave the oil pan as you have it painted. I would think these engines were assembled, then fully painted and installed. I paid particular close attention when I pulled the virgin engine from my '56 F350. I am convinced the engine was painted yellow, water pump to bell housing and intake manifold to clutch cover. Even the original pressure plate had over spray of yellow paint thereon which tells me something. Accessories were probably added just prior to or during engine installation. Makes no sense to me why an oil pan would be different color unless it was some special rust preventive coating or paint. Knowing Ford did not care about rust at this time frame, I doubt if that was the case. I have a complete engine from a '56 F-100 and the intake, bell housing was originally yellow but the block and heads had been painted at sometime when the engine was overhauled.
Valve covers on both engines appear to have been a silver / gold, probably metallic . Years of heat cool cycles have made a color id impossible. i went back argent on mine. If not original, very close. Mine looks like those engines in the thread you mention. Hope I did not.
Again, looks good.
Thanks raytasch, no hijack there.
I have two main reasons for doing this thread
1. So you guys can catch anything I'm doing stupid before I hurt myself or cost myself tons of money.
2. I'm hoping my pictures and documentation might help someone in the future.
I'm always open to comments/suggestions/history lessons.
The more I read the more I think that there were no 100% standards. Having a different color oil pan sounds odd since it would be easier to paint it all at once, but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see some different colors from the factory.
Well, minor setback.
In the picture you will notice a crack in the thermostat housing, well it's not a crack any more. Time to find a new one. Auto parts stores won't have this, so I have some searching to do. If anyone has a spare they want to sell...
Don't throw it out yet, Joe.
I've had good luck with good welders fixing these things. As long as there is still good meat on the rest of it (not all rusted out) it can be cleaned up and braised back by someone who knows what he is doing with a torch. The water pressure is minimal...slim
National Parts Depot has it listed page 92 of 7th edition catalog. Yeah, I would attempt the repair first. New soft gasket and be careful on the install. Replace that rusted bypass outlet if you repair your housing.