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Old 02-13-2012, 02:27 PM
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55 239 Y-Block Restoration Thread

Well, I decided to try a restoration thread for my engine. I won't call it a rebuild thread because that indicates some type of skill in working on engines.

Hopefully this will help me learn more about what I'm doing as well as help someone else that might be doing this work as well.

I bought my truck from my wife's grandpa back in 2002. I started to work on getting the engine running, but our third child came along and the city decided they didn't like my truck parked in my driveway since it didn't run. So it sat at my in-laws until we moved into our current house with a garage. At that time, I decided to tear everything down to the frame....boy lots of learning to do.

This motor ran when parked (in about 1972) I was told it had about 30,000 miles on the rebuild from Consolidated Rebuilders out of Hutchinson Kansas.

Here are some specs on the motor:
Motor #: EBV94250
Cylinder Heads:
Driver side: EBV-B
Passenger side: ECG-C (Note this is a head for 272 so they do interchange)
Exhaust Manifold:
Drivers: ECE-9431
Passenger: ECE-9430-B
Intake Manifold: EBV94250

I have a bunch of photos out on photobucket:
Engine pictures by harrier1351 - Photobucket

Here is the rebuild tag:
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is my thread on the oil pump:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-cleaning.html

Here is the thread on removing the lower pulley:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...y-removal.html
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:31 PM
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Here is the engine as the truck sat in the pole barn when I bought it:
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Click the image to open in full size.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:39 PM
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When I first got it, I started digging into the engine:
Click the image to open in full size.

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Here it is years later with the front clip removed. Notice that several parts are painted. These have been sitting painted like that for 8 to 10 years.
Click the image to open in full size.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:55 PM
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Here is the engine coming out:
Click the image to open in full size.

And on the Stand;
Click the image to open in full size.

It sat on the stand for a long time while I was cleaning up the frame.

I cleaned up the oil pan and was trying to put it back on and was having a dickens of a time. It then hit me. It's on an engine stand. So I flipped it and then it went on easy.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I then painted it while it was upside down:
Click the image to open in full size.

Flipped it back over and painted the rest:
Click the image to open in full size.

I used Dupli-Color Daytona Yellow, that is very close to original color.

I hope to put it back on the frame next weekend and then start working to see if I can get it to run. No telling how long that will take me.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:06 PM
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Nice pics.
If you are going original the valve covers should be argent silver and the oil pan black.
I did my 55 239 Y block all original.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:21 PM
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Well, I painted the valve covers black before I got into what the original colors actually were. I also painted my water pump black....
Now the oil pan was yellow, notice the color of it as I was pulling it off the frame.
Of course there is the 195 post "How to properly color a Y-Block?" thread
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/29...a-y-block.html
Interesting read with no real consensus. But pictures do show the oil pan yellow. Post #55 has a good factory picture.

My main goal is to just get it working without breaking the bank...If I can keep it close to stock that's great too.

Edit: Just checked out your truck and engine, very nice!! My truck was originally sea sprite green as well, at this point that's what I'm going with. Mine had a aftermarket flatbed on it, so I'm going to keep some sort of flatbed, maybe all wood.....that doesn't make me a darksider does it?
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:37 PM
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Got the colors I quoted from a 1955 Ford Dealer's Brochure that shows argent valve covers and black oil pan.
Love the Sea Sprite Green. Mine is clear coated that gives a very shinny appearance.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:10 PM
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I mis spoke. The valve covers are gray not argent.
Sorry!!
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:11 PM
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Looking good there, Harrier. I believe I would leave the oil pan as you have it painted. I would think these engines were assembled, then fully painted and installed. I paid particular close attention when I pulled the virgin engine from my '56 F350. I am convinced the engine was painted yellow, water pump to bell housing and intake manifold to clutch cover. Even the original pressure plate had over spray of yellow paint thereon which tells me something. Accessories were probably added just prior to or during engine installation. Makes no sense to me why an oil pan would be different color unless it was some special rust preventive coating or paint. Knowing Ford did not care about rust at this time frame, I doubt if that was the case. I have a complete engine from a '56 F-100 and the intake, bell housing was originally yellow but the block and heads had been painted at sometime when the engine was overhauled.
Valve covers on both engines appear to have been a silver / gold, probably metallic . Years of heat cool cycles have made a color id impossible. i went back argent on mine. If not original, very close. Mine looks like those engines in the thread you mention. Hope I did not.
Again, looks good.
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:15 PM
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Thanks raytasch, no hijack there.
I have two main reasons for doing this thread
1. So you guys can catch anything I'm doing stupid before I hurt myself or cost myself tons of money.
2. I'm hoping my pictures and documentation might help someone in the future.

I'm always open to comments/suggestions/history lessons.
The more I read the more I think that there were no 100% standards. Having a different color oil pan sounds odd since it would be easier to paint it all at once, but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to see some different colors from the factory.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:30 AM
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Well, minor setback.
In the picture you will notice a crack in the thermostat housing, well it's not a crack any more. Time to find a new one. Auto parts stores won't have this, so I have some searching to do. If anyone has a spare they want to sell...

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:39 AM
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Don't throw it out yet, Joe.
I've had good luck with good welders fixing these things. As long as there is still good meat on the rest of it (not all rusted out) it can be cleaned up and braised back by someone who knows what he is doing with a torch. The water pressure is minimal...slim
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:23 AM
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National Parts Depot has it listed page 92 of 7th edition catalog. Yeah, I would attempt the repair first. New soft gasket and be careful on the install. Replace that rusted bypass outlet if you repair your housing.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:56 PM
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Joe, I think I have an extra T stat cover....can look if you want. If so you are welcome to it. Are 272-292 the same?
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman52 View Post
Joe, I think I have an extra T stat cover....can look if you want. If so you are welcome to it. Are 272-292 the same?
Well Macs Auto says the car one is the same for 239 through 312. They don't seem to have the truck one. I would think they are the same.

I would really appreciate it if you could look for me.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:11 PM
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