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  #76  
Old 04-30-2012, 06:17 AM
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I have been able to find just about any part I need at one of the local auto parts chains. Also places like midfifty, macs auto, Dennis carpenter, lmc truck and there are probably several others. So far I have only ordered any parts from midfifty. I also have the fel-pro part number for a complete gasket set, I think I put it probably on the first page of this thread.

The crossmember may be a little more challenging. Most likely you will need to get it from someone that has removed it to put another engine in. Fortunately for me, my frame was stock and solid so I haven't had to worry about that.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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  #77  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:00 PM
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Well, I'm closer. I now have spark at least one plug.
Now I'm thinking I need to work on the carb. Check out the video and at 13 seconds notice the fuel spray out of the fuel line to the carb.
239 Y-Block start attempt - YouTube

So, this means that the fuel pump is working well, but my guess is that I have something blocked in the carb which limits the fuel to the cylinders. I had spun the starter before and didn't notice this. I wonder if I just now really have the carb full of gas? My choke wasn't open either...
I figure I need to tear the carb apart, or are there adjustments I need to try first? I have no clue how to properly adjust a carb, it looks like it is time for me to learn.
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  #78  
Old 05-01-2012, 07:29 AM
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Someone posted the link to the carb manual here a while back. Yes, chances are the carb is needing serious work after years of being dormant. Possibly even had leaded fuel in it when parked. Have a good clean place to work and lay parts out. Be aware of the very small parts because they will come out at you and you'll have the expression on your face of where did that come from? Carb repair is not rocket science. Good luck.
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  #79  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:06 AM
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When I first got the truck I bought a rebuilt kit for the carb, but that is probably the same issue as the points. It hasn't been used, but I need to start over and check it all out.
Well here comes lots of pictures and careful track of all the little parts.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:51 AM
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Here is the manual Ray mentioned:
The Old Car Manual Project: Manuals and tech info online

Here is another Holley 94 link from the flatheadv8.org site;
SPECIFICATIONS

Here is an article on the carb from Classic Trucks;
Holley 94 Carburetor - Two-Barrel Tech
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  #81  
Old 05-01-2012, 01:19 PM
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Is that fuel vapor pushing back out of the carb? If so, it implies that the cam timing is off, or the clearance is wrong, and the valve is open when the piston is coming up on compression.
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  #82  
Old 05-02-2012, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Is that fuel vapor pushing back out of the carb? If so, it implies that the cam timing is off, or the clearance is wrong, and the valve is open when the piston is coming up on compression.
I hadn't thought about that option, I will need to check on it.

The gaswas coming out of the carb where the fuel line attaches to the carb. First I will check to see if there is any blockage preventing the gas from getting into the bowl.
When I removed the top of the carb, the fuel bowl didn't have much gas in it. I figured the bowl would be pretty full if it was flowing properly....
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
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  #83  
Old 05-02-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrier View Post
I hadn't thought about that option, I will need to check on it.

The gaswas coming out of the carb where the fuel line attaches to the carb.
When I removed the top of the carb, the fuel bowl didn't have much gas in it. I figured the bowl would be pretty full if it was flowing properly....
If the fuel is coming out of the fitting, = fitting problem. The float valve inside the carb should prevent too much gas from getting into the carb. The float valve's sole function is to regulate fuel into the carb.
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  #84  
Old 05-02-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
If the fuel is coming out of the fitting, = fitting problem. The float valve inside the carb should prevent too much gas from getting into the carb. The float valve's sole function is to regulate fuel into the carb.
Yeah, I need to take this one step at a time. Fixing the fitting problem should come first.
[lesson break] When the bowl gets full and the float stops flow, how does the mechanical fuel pump handle this? Since the fuel keeps pumping, couldn't you have a great deal of pressure on the pump? [/lesson break]

Although everything I do is a new lesson for me.

The gas level was well below the float, which is what got me thinking that gas is not getting down into the bowl and the back pressure would be between the fitting and the float. I tested the float and it moved freely and didn't stick up(closing off gas) at all.
Obviously some gas is getting into the bowl, so I'm going to check the flow past the float real quick to verify that is fine.
If the bowl fills up properly, the next step is to verify that gas is getting into the throttle body so it can go down to the cylinders.

I would think that Ross's suggestion about back pressure from timing issues would send gas back out the top of the carb instead of the fitting, but it is something that needs to be checked after I run through the above.

Have I told you guys lately that you are awesome? I'm learning bunches and hopefully my dumb questions can help someone else not look so dumb in the future.
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Y-Block Restoration Thread
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  #85  
Old 05-02-2012, 03:10 PM
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Do you have a stock fitting? (Weatherhead 59X4, aka Fordnut) If so, you need to make sure the line is bottomed out in the carb inlet, then tighten the fitting, making sure the ferrule is on the line. It wouldn't hurt to try a true Weatherhead fitting, available at NAPA. I've read that there are some cheap offshore fittings that don't seal.

This is assuming the inlet threads aren't damaged by being cross-threaded or stripped out. A close visual inspection would tell you whether the inlet has been cross-threaded; you will see a spiderweb of threads. It is easy to bugger up the threads, since the casting is softer than the brass fitting.
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  #86  
Old 05-07-2012, 03:56 PM
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Kudos to Precision Machine of Jefferson City. I went there with my fitting off the carb. Well they didn't have one, but mine was cross threaded just a little bit. They cleaned it up and when I asked how much I owe them, he said "Just come back." Well, they will be my first stop now. You rarely see that now a days.

I got the new fuel line on. (My first tube bending experiment)
I cranked the engine up and these videos are what happened.
Before I hurt myself, I would like some thoughts on how that went and what I should do next.

First Fire of the Engine - YouTube

This next one is immediately after.
Y-Block Engine Start Attempt - YouTube

I need to learn to edit the movies so you don't have to look at me walking in front of the camera.
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  #87  
Old 05-07-2012, 05:54 PM
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I believe you have a timing and or firing order issue. I believe I see it firing thru what appears to be an open exhaust valve on the second try. When that thing does start with those forward pointing open headers you will wake up the neighborhood. You will see flames out both pipes when it starts. I can't tell if you had a backfire or not.
I believe I hear it trying to kick back when it fires which could be timing too far advanced. I forget how you set the timing. Might try turning the distributor a degree or two CCW. Check your firing order one more time.
First thing: Get that gas can outside the garage along with anything else flash combustable that is near the truck. Get a big fire extinguisher.
We're waiting to hear it run. Best of luck.

I went back and watched the video again. You're almost there. Do you have the choke set on the engine? It may take it partially set.
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1949 F-4 Built to drive--script bed.
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  #88  
Old 05-07-2012, 07:30 PM
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The gas can there is my fuel source. Should I get something smaller?

Here is another video from the front trying again.
Engine Firing Front 1 - YouTube

I will look at the timing and check the firing order. Time for more study.
Closer and closer, I'll get there before too long.

Thanks for all the help.
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1955 F-250 239 Y-Block
Y-Block Restoration Thread
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  #89  
Old 05-17-2012, 03:46 PM
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Well, I haven't spent time near my truck for a while, but I have been thinking about it.
Here is timing info from the Manual.
"The 239 and 256 cubic inch engines are equipped with a crankshaft pulley having a single grooved timing mark which represents 10 degrees B.T.D.C. (Before top dead center) This mark and a timing pointer, bolted to the water pump, are used to time the engines."
Well I found the grooves and put the timing mark piece on the engine and here is what they look like.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last week I looked at my plug wires and they weren't in the right sequence. I put them there, and now that I know where top dead center is. I will check to make sure they are in the right spot.

But, I need to work on my in-laws pool getting a new liner in it and my daughter qualified for State track in the 2 mile which is Saturday. (Proud dad following in my footsteps.) So....hmmmm maybe I can sneak out to the garage for 5 to 10 minutes.....
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  #90  
Old 05-23-2012, 07:52 AM
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I think your latest changes will fix the problem! BTW you should never run without an aircleaner while troubleshooting problems like this, it will prevent a carb fire.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:52 AM
 
 
 
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