1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
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Getting a 12V generator for you truck should be really easy, any 1956 or later Ford generator will be 12V. Most will bolt right onto a Y-block. That said, unless you are adding A/C, I see no need to switch to 12V. 6V is easier on a restoration since you don't have to worry about compatibility with your temp, oil pressure, and gas gauge.
Oh, so now you are going to make me use logic and figure out what is really best for me in my situation. Now that it is crunch time, I need to take a step back and analyze what I really need.
So here are some notes to myself, I welcome feedback and direction:
This will be a basic truck to be used as a truck but not a daily driver.
No AC or Stereo. Very little night driving.
I want to get it up and going for as little money as possible but still is safe and reliable.
• Parts I have
• Parts I need
o 12v generator ~$100 from O'Reilly
o Voltage reducers for gauges ~$60
o 12v voltage regulator $60
• Parts I have
o 6v Coil (Not 100% sure it's good) $25
o 6v Generator
o 6v voltage regulator (I've got 2, one NOS)
• Parts I need
o 6v solenoid $17
o 6v Battery $100
o Anything else?
I will need wiring, battery cables, bulbs, gas tank sending unit, anything else? for both.
Looking at pros and cons:
12V easier cranking, brighter headlights,??
6V Stock, looks to be cheaper in my case, ??
Based on this analysis, it looks like 6V is probably the way to go.
Didn't AXRacer post a dissertation on planning your trucks future.....which I copied and saved. I guess I should follow folks advice sometime
Please correct anything that I got wrong. This is a very helpful exercise for me. Now for the parade, I'm staying with my 12v battery and coil. That works for my short stints until I start the wiring process.
Well I went out and had a couple of cables made today. DANG! 00 copper is $12 a foot. It was a bit more than I expected, but if you look at the ones I had, I'm ashamed to admit I had it on the vehicle until today.
I will need to save up for the battery cables. But I'm currently running 12 volts, so I'm good with my regular cables for now.
Well, Joe, it looks like you decided on staying 6 volt. Good choice from the way I see it. Those new cables will help a lot. You said 12 volt has easier cranking. Not exactly true. The 6 volt will crank just as fast but the downside is it won't crank as long as a 12 battery. Shop around for your 6 volt battery. I think $100 is high. Do you have an auto electric shop near you or an ag store that sells batteries for old tractors?
FTE member since March '98
1954 F-100, bought from Grandpa in 1977 for $200
1970 F-350 flatbed dump, purchased 9/20/12
BJ, yeah I'm happy with the cables. I'm cheap, but doing it right is important.
Abe, thanks for that info. I'm not experienced with 6V systems. I will be looking around for the right battery. It will be the balance between a good one and a cost effective one.
Interesting thing happened today. I spend time out in the garage and actually accomplished a few things.
Cables are installed, timing is set. I still need to tighten that bolt more, dang it's hard with the cab on. I even bought a distributor wrench, cheap thing that didn't work for me. I need to find a stubby wrench.
I also got the inner fenders on.
It's amazing what you can get done when you actually go out to the garage.
I will try to meet up with a guy about rims on Saturday. He has 4 outies and he is asking $60 for all four. Unfortunately he removed the tires which were tons better than the ones I have. I have 3 innies nice and painted now. Maybe one day I will find another innie. Shoot for that price, I don't think I can go wrong.
Well, it's been a pretty productive week. Lots of little things.
Solenoid is back on the firewall
New starter cables installed
Heater valve replaced
Steering column mount cleaned and re-installed
Instrument cluster re-installed
Speedometer cable installed
Acquired new rims and have cleaned and painted the two I will use.
I have the transmission cover back in place but not set in.
Here are some pictures.
I can't wait to change that from all zeros. Also to see the speedometer work.
The new one is not built near as nice. Notice how on the old one you can get a wrench above the inlet. The new one is harder to tighten down with your carb on.
It's awful dark with those black inner fenders. You can see it much better in person.
I'm dropping the rims off tomorrow after work and they will put new tires on them Tuesday. I will get some pictures of them later.
U B kicking some serious B#~t on getting ready for the parade! What kind of tires are you installing? Bias or radials?
I'm going with radials. 235/85-16 (I think that's the size)
Here are my 4 rims I will be using. Notice two are innies and two are outies. I decided to do this instead of the 4 outies all the way, just to keep more originals, well and the fact that the innies were already clean. My two split ring rims are outies, so it will be the same as when I got it. Also I have some innie hubcaps....
The newer rims are slightly wider, but that should be noticeable to anyone.
I will now have 1 innie rim, 2 outies, and 2 split ring rims laying around as extras.
Here are the rims:
I also just got done with some Simple Green and water on my grill.
I removed the V8 emblem and I will clean up that bracket and look to put the grill on. I also hosed off the lower valance. I noticed the rubber was stapled on???
My plan is to take it out next Saturday and drive it around for a while and let it run for an hour or so. I will probably hook up the trailer and pull that around a bit. I know I have a ball somewhere.....
OK you enablers! Now what do I do with these?
I've got 4 new tires on the truck!
Here is comparison of 7.5X16 to 235/85-16
Here is how they look on the front:
I'm a little worried if I can let enough air out of the tires to get it low enough to fit through the garage. As a last resort, I might have to build some wheeled cart to rest the front end on and remove the tires to lower it enough. I guess I will find out Saturday morning.
Now for another question.
I'm not sure I have the transmission cover setup correctly. There is a ring on the shaft under the cover sitting on the transmission and it is loose. There is also a gap.
Here is what it looks like now, it's a little hard to see with all the black:
You can kind of see what it was originally like in these pictures. In the picture with the cover removed you can see the ring barely and it is encased in grease and dirt.
Could there have been a boot at sometime there? It's pretty open for the emergency brake lever. Maybe you just expected that openness. But, The ring just seems odd. I don't see a purpose for it. After I read stories to my youngest I will see if I can find it in the book to know what to call it.
Yep, that is the ring that just lays there. I believe it had a rubber seal bonded to it at one time.
1949 F-4 Built to drive--script bed.
1956 F350 Stock rebuilt script bed
2007 F150 SC. Driven once in a whle. If there’s one thing that the government is highly skilled at, it is creating excessive amounts of bureaucracy and extra layers of red tape for people to wade through.
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