No, I haven't. They are all wearing very well from visual inspection and tire tread depth gauge readings

Anyway, this is being towed to the dealer for another tire, which was very competitive with other discount tire companies on their price. I will have them do a rotation at this time...

 

In my younger days at the dealerships I would typically use the "drop kick" method. Couple shots on the bottom and then rotate for a couple more. If that didn't work then the mini sledges came out.
On occasion though we would have to burn the wheels off (steel wheels, aluminum always came off with enough pounding).

Now I make sure there is a very thin coating of never seize or something I have been using since owning a SuperGlide hitch is "Slip Plate"


Don't think so. How will oiled studs lead to over torquing?
If you install the lugs correctly they should not be over torqued.

And on the DRW's you are supposed to oil the lug nuts (between the actual nut and the washer)

"It is important to follow the proper wheel mounting and lug nut torque
procedures.
On all two-piece flat wheel nuts,
apply one drop of motor oil between
the flat washer and the nut."

 

x2 what Crazy said, never apply any lubricant, not ant-seize or oil, to the lug threads. Careful application of oil to the nut washer will keep it turning freely but lube on the threads can create a situation where if you're attempting to properly torque the nuts with a torque wrench may snap off the studs. The torque specs were created with dry threads.

 

See HERE.

And HERE.

Torquing lugs down on oiled threads to the same torque as you would dry threads would result in quite a bit higher clamping force. This can stretch and break bolts, warp rotors, and compromise the integrity of the fasteners.

 

Exactly! But nothing can stop a kid with a air impact from tightening lug nuts so tight you need a breakover handle and 4' cheater pipe to get them loose.

 

OK - lets leave Permatex and never-seize out of the equation. Never-seize is not the same as a drop of oil and Permatex has a liability issue with recommending something that is not specially addressed in the owners manual.


For every quote you find like the one from MachineToolHelp.com (not related to vehicles) you could also find one like this from Normark Industries Wheel Service Bible
1. Fasteners wear out. The nuts and studs that hold wheels to the hub are designed for heavy-duty application but they do wear. After they have been fastened and removed a number of times, the threads and seats wear.

2. Fasteners corrode. For that reason, lubrication must be applied sparingly to the threads. Wheel manufacture guidelines and RP222 say a couple of drops of machine oil should be applied to the threads of the stud.

• Do not over or under lubricate. Too much oil, or no oil leads to false torque wrench readings with potential wheels-off incidents.

If you go and re-research the oli on threads and limit any finds to only vehicle wheels I think you may find different results.

What is key whether you believe it is OK or not, is to ensure that no oil or lube gets on the nut face or the "bowl" surrounding the stud.

The key to any of it is to properly torque the nuts and don't get any lube on the nut face or the bowl.

Now that said, I always use a torque wrench on this truck and the 5th wheel.
But I did over 20 years in the automotive field and I have to say, proper use of impact guns lead to very few failures.

I'm not saying that is the right way to do install wheels, but I would venture to say between myself and the hundreds of other techs over the years that amounts to 10's of thousands of wheels being zipped on and off with a gun.
I can't even remember if there were any direct resulting problems, aside from the occasional broken wheel stud.

I haven't seen a Ford tech yet (my serving dealers) use a torque wrench and properly torque to 165 foot pounds any DRW wheels.
And by the time you get to the 4th wheel at multiple steps, 165 gets pretty old.

 

I never seize mine, and torque to 145FT/LBS. No special reason for the lower torque, other than never seize. I have never seized the lug's on all my vehicles since 96. No problem's yet, other than I just over applied on my SD and now the wheel look's bad.

 

Never seize I would not use.

 

Done it for 16yrs with no issues.

 

Worked great - Thanks!

 

toms right. oil or lube on threads is bad news. make sure you clean em with solvent or such first. then do a tad bit of anti seize on the threads in addition the the rim seating surface.

(Tom, you love posting that jack pic lol....btw, the manual kinda sucks for explaining where to jack from the front if your not using a bottle jack)