my standard method for removing/installing distributors is to use a paint pen or other suitable marker to mark where on the distributor body the rotor is facing, and (sometimes) to also mark at the distributor base to show its alignment relative to the engine block.
when reinstalling it, all that really matters is having the rotor (and shaft) in the same relative position to the distributor body. if the whole assembly is rotated by one tooth, its harmless. for firing order, don't worry about it, just pop the cap off the dizzy leaving the wires attached, and tie it up out of the way with a bungee cord or wire if needed
I think it got it in there without pulling the distributor. I haven't ran it yet, but I *think* I got it without the gasket moving on me. We will have to see. Thanks,
Brew
This is even better----we'll hope for the best right along with you Tim!
yup, unfortunately my cheap van isn't turning out to be that way. I think the gas leak is just the hoses to the tank, not sure what the tranny's problem is. I have replaced the pan gasket twice and it still leaks, and the coolant looks to be either the thermostat housing, or the water pump.
Maybe try degreasing all the underside stuff first then drive a day or two and look again for any leaks.
If these somewhat minor and easy-to-fix issues are all you encounter with your new van that'll be a good thing. Every good deal comes with a bit of a glitch!
Ok, I lied. Trying to get it back in there without removing the dizzy must have knocked the gasket loose in the front. As soon as I started it and ran it for a few minutes, oil was dumping out towards the front (grill side). SO I am going to yank it again and see what is up. Probably try to pull the distributor this time for more room. Hopefully can get it figured out.
Just for more info, I used contact adhesive to hold the gasket to the cover, and anaerobic sealant on the block side. Guess the adhesive didn't hold well enough.
The anaerobic sealant might not have been your best choice----an adhesive-type product like RTV might be your better choice in this situation.
Once upon a time while working on a lot of GM engines the valve cover gaskets were notorious for leaking regardless what brand or style you used as replacements. A friend who rebuilt motors for his company's fleet discovered using RTV on the valve cover before placing and carefully aligning the gasket then setting it aside for a few hours to cure was the trick.
When time to install the valve cover/gasket cured assembly a thin but wide band of RTV on the block and careful tightening of the bolts made this once-problematic area virtually leak free. His method or something slightly like it has been my practice for such things ever since---its worked nearly perfectly for me so far.
Hopefully needless to say all surfaces need to be completely clean and free of anything that'd prevent the RTV or whatever from properly adhering to the parts. I've used brake or carb cleaner BUT also wipe with a clean dry cloth afterwards---those compounds can and do leave a residue that's best removed.
This might sound like over kill but in that location and that cover's importance its a small thing that might give you better results next time out.
ok. I tore it out and redid it yesterday. If it doesn't hold this time, I will try rtv on it instead. I have a buddy that was a mechanic for 30 years and what I did was the way he said he would do it. So I thought what the heck.
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