On my 96' Explorer 4wd, 4L V6, auto tranny the front end makes a roaring noise when slowing down from 30mph to stop; no shimmy or shake or any other noise, it has 133K miles on it, original wheel bearings; just wondering if it is wheel bearing assembly and are these pressed on or can you remove them and replace with new assembly fairly easily. Are there any threads with the procedure here. Thanks for any advise and help.
Just did my 98 during my lunch hour about 2 weeks ago...that should tell you something.
Actually they are quiet easy but you will need to ensure you have the size of the socket for the spindle nuts and a torque wrench with a long handle before hand.
At least for my 98 and probably for yours the hub is a sealed unit.
So..with the wheels on the ground break the spindle nut loose.
Front end on jack stands followed by removal of both wheels.
Remove brake pads/calipers, tie with a wire to get them out of the way.
Remove the hardware for the caliper from the back side, just two bolts.
Remove the rotors.
Next remove the abs wire from near the headlight if you have it. New hubs will come with the abs if you require it. You can get them without and transfer it to the new hubs but I would not. They will break if you try it.
Back side of the hubs is next. Three bolts, I think they were 15mm. Once those are out the a smack from the rear of the hub and they should pop off.
One thing some pb blaster or wd40 or something on the spindle and those bolts before you start.
Then clean the spindle up and everything in reverse.
Should be pretty much it, don't think I left off anything..other than loosen up the master cyl cap so the brake fluid has somewhere to go when sqeezing the brake calipers.
for what it is worth that sounds like your problem.
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Scott-2008 F250 PSD Crew Cab 4x4, 12K GVWR,
Cooper Discovery STT LT275/70R18's
Banks Ram Air & 6-Gun, Ravelco Alarm System, Frontier Extreme FT. Bumper
2011 40' 4-slider stoneridge 5th wheel coming in at 14K
I wouldn't say it's quite that easy procedure, i did this to my Bronco and it took me a while, you also have to check every seal, you do nothing replacing a bearing if you're letting water inside, it will rust and you'll have to replace it again, check this write-up: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11243835
I wouldn't say it's quite that easy procedure, i did this to my Bronco and it took me a while, you also have to check every seal, you do nothing replacing a bearing if you're letting water inside, it will rust and you'll have to replace it again, check this write-up: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11243835
The hubs are sealed. Complete unit.
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Scott-2008 F250 PSD Crew Cab 4x4, 12K GVWR,
Cooper Discovery STT LT275/70R18's
Banks Ram Air & 6-Gun, Ravelco Alarm System, Frontier Extreme FT. Bumper
2011 40' 4-slider stoneridge 5th wheel coming in at 14K
Thanks again on wheel hub bearings; do any of you know how to get the rear doors to open from the inside; the child locks work all the time with the little lever switch in either position. If I could just by pass it or remove it so the doors will open. Thanks
Book says to just move the little lever on the door post fot the locks. If that dont work, i would guess you have to remove the door panel and look inside.
I dont understand how the bearings can make a noise at 30 MPH, but not at a constant 55 MPH.
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2001 SuperCrew 4 x 4 5.4 XLT - 220,000 miles
2002 Explorer 4 x 4 4.0 XLT - 152,000 miles
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