Is there any way I can get a wiring diagram for my 1994 Ford F-350 (older
version - no computer controller)? I did a search on this forum and downloaded
several pdf drawings but they look like from a newer more advanced truck.
Chilton and Motor Manuals are pretty weak in that regard. I went to the
library and checked both truck manuals for that year and didn't see
any wiring diagrams at all in either book. Among other jobs I want to repair
the windshield washer. When I push the windshield washer button, I hear a
relay under the dash snap in but no power to the pump motor. The motor
runs fine and pumps when I put power to the pump pins. If it is impossible
to get a wiring diagram it would help if someone knows the layout of the
fuses and relays in the relay box. I can trace some of the wiring from
there. I have to rewire the wipers too. Someone jerry rigged the wiring
and I lost the speed control and stop switch wires. I want to put it all
back with original connections and controls.

Can anyone give me a heads up on how to pull off the headlight rim? I
removed the two top screws and pulled out the battery box but didn't see
any other connections. The two screws didn't release the rim. There is a
plastic push pin that looks like it may be holding the rim about the
center of the outside of the rim but push as hard as I could from the inside
against the end of the pin, it would not push toward the rim or move the rim
at all. The rim is old plastic and if I force it I'll probably have to give
Ford my oldest child for a new one. In fact, I'd have to buy two since one
would be greying out and the other would be new. I want to remove the rim
to polish up the inside of the lens. It has turned dark yellow. I buffed
up the outside of the lens with Plexiglas polish but some of the
discoloration is inside.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...l-removal.html This might help for the headlight.
Hopefully some of the guys here may have wiring diagrams.

 

There are some on autozone.com under repair info, then select vehicle guides. You need to register but its free.

 

The info you recommended on the rim removal looks good. I'll try that tomorrow. I'm going to the autozone site and look it over now.

 

i hope this is of some assistance.....
EBSCOhost - world

 

Autozone drawings weren't very helpful. None of the engine or chassis diagrams showed the fuse box with the relays in it at all. My firewall plug goes to that box then out to all the various users. I also printed out the 87 to 89 drawling because it did show my washer pump. We'll see tomorrow if that makes any sense.

 

I'm going to try posting this in my old "need wiring diagram" first
and if no results, I'll put it in a new post. My truck is a 94 F350 7.3L.

I have downloaded a stack of wiring diagrams from a bunch of sources
but none is exactly for my truck. It may be helpful for you to know
the full story on my truck. The truck came with a 94 cab with an "H"
VIN. My chassis is about a 550 with a diesel which should have an "M"
VIN. I am guessing on the 550 because all parts I needed for chassis
repairs like brakes needed 550 or F57 parts.

Since my problems I'm trying to resolve are all pertaining to the
cab, the info for an F350 should work. I started this work to get
my windshield washers working and if possible I would like to get
back to original on the wiper system. It had been Jerry rigged to
work by sending power from a toggle on the dash straight to the
WW motor plug. All the stuff needed to go back to original is
in place. I have a 4x4x1 black plastic box next to the glove
box that has 3 relays in it to control the intermittant wipers.
These relays click when I press the washer button so they are
powered up.

Without the proper diagram my only option was to pull wires and draw
my own diagram for what I have. I have now a drawing of the "through
firewall" plug and by tracing the printed circuit board I have some
of the intermittant wiper box wiring. My problem presently is the
wiper motor. It has 2 plugs. One I call the motor plug since it
goes into the motor itself and the other I call the sensor plug
since it goes into the section of the motor where the park cam
is located. This is where it gets weird. The sensor plug has 3
pins. The black wire is always grounded and is on one side of
the plug. The other side pin has 12V on "ignition on". I get no
continuity to anything on the middle pin. Worse, the motor plug
has 3 pins. The Jerry rig had ground on one side pin and 12V on
the other outer pin and the wipers ran. I can find no continuity
on the middle pin. I hate to pull the wiper motor to open it
up since I just put back the panel which is over the WW arms.
I had to remove it to put in new washer hoses. It was a bear
to get off and put back on. It does appear the high speed
winding is bad.

To be sure, I need the pin out of the power plug on the motor. Any
help will be appreciated.

 

I may be wrong, but I thought you could change the motor without opening up the cowl. At least on the older trucks, you can unbolt the motor and pull it out enough to disconnect the wiper linkage. I doubt its any different on a 94 as the cab is still basically the same.

Just checked my parts truck, it has 2 3-wire connectors, so that sounds right. I don't know what the pins get though, sorry.

Brainstorm... the middle pin on the sensor might send voltage directly to the motor to "park" the wiper in the right position when you turn off the wipers. Perhaps it connects to the middle pin of the motor plug? Not sure if thats correct though.

 

Your idea is worth checking. I can buzz it out and see. I'll try pulling the motor without opening the cowl. I can do a lot if I can get the motor into my hands.

 

you wont have any luck trying to remove the wiper motor from a 9th gen truck (92-97) without first removing the cowl.
interesting.looks like (if its not your multi switch) it's what they call the "governor" behind the glove box.a relay box.it likely went out of course,and rather than replacing it,someone figured they'd just make their relay setup.i thought i was cheap.

 

I got my washer pump running this morning. It was a bad connection in the wiring. For anyone that may need it, I pulled the wiper motor and buzzed out all connections. I tested this and it's definite, the wiper motor runs in both speeds when connected to the battery. Looking into the motor socket, not the sensor socket, the left most pin which is vertical is the low speed positive connection. The right most vertical is the high speed connection. The center pin which is horizontal is the ground connection.

 

I am at my wits end. Apparently I still need a wiring diagram for my wiper system in
order to get my wipers to work as originally designed. I buzzed out all the wires
from my WW motor to the "through the firewall" plug. I then checked the connections
from the WW motor to the box refered to by Chilton as the governor. It contains 3
relays. I traced the printed circuit board and made a rough drawing of the inside of
the box. The relays are numbered on the board. K3 is the high/low relay, K1 is the
washer relay and K2 is the speed relay. All 3 relays are working and I have the
color code for the wires from the box and these wires are live with voltages you
would expect from each relay as you switch the control on the steering wheel.

Only 2 of the motor sensor wires trace to the governor and none of the power plug
wires go to the governor directly. This leads me to believe there is another box
I am not finding. The "through the firewall" plug on the inside of the wall is
vertually inaccessable. Ford must have hung the cable from a sky hook and built
the truck around that plug. I unclipped it but could barely budge it trying to push
it into the area from behind the frame so I could get to it. The only black
box (white actually) that I can see left is under the steering wheel. I don't want
to pull that down to buzz it unless I have some credable information that the
WW wires go through it. I might end up causing more harm than good if it is an
unrelated box since a large number of wires are packed into that box and very
little service loop wire is available.

So far I have looked over or downloaded all drawings I could find, checked Chilton
and Motors at the library, and an Autozone employee looked in what he called Hines
for a wiring diagram. He didn't have one for a 94 F-350 and told me an F-150 was
not going to help. Does anyone out there have the perfect diagram for my truck?
I've shot my wad.

 

Try these:

 

I have an '85 and while the wiring may be different, there is one bit of advice that I have to offer.

First though, a couple of questions...

When you turn the wiper switch to the slow setting do the wipers work at all? Do the wipers get "stuck" mid-sweep?

What about turning the wiper switch to fast? Does it go at the slow speed?

When I was having problems with my wipers working intermittently, I started replacing items (wiper motor first then the switch) without any luck. The problem turned out to be grounding. I would recommend checking the ground on the wiper motor itself. The new wiper motor, of course, was painted and wasn't giving me a good ground to the chassis. Once I scraped the paint off of the new wiper motor around the ground connection bazinga! I gots wipers.

But that didn't solve my problem entirely. The wipers would work on the fast setting but they ran at the normal speed. Also, the intermittent function did not work. Now on the '85 the intermittent relay is built into the wiper switch itself so there is a bit of a difference from your truck but I would check that you have a good ground from the relay to the chassis. I ended up changing the grounding location for the switch in the cab and ensured a good ground by scraping the connection surface prior to fastening the ground wire. That did the trick and now it all works.

 

My wiper motor has 3 input pins. See above entries. If I put my own ground wire on the center pin and put 12V on the one outer pin I get high speed. If I move the 12V to the other outer pin I get slow speed. I don't think Ford would put a pin in the plug if they were dependent on grounding from the body but I could be wrong. My problem is I get no 12V on either of the wires feeding the motor plug and no continuity to the governor module. I'm going to look over the above drawing and see if that gives me any ideas.