I have had been doing alot of reading and chiming in here and there but its time to put all my symptoms together. Ill start off by saying that I do have some bad glowplugs and pins on my harnesses. So thats getting changed/fixed very soon. But I have some other things that I dont believe are the harnesses.
On a cold day after I get past the obvious half my GPs not working issues my truck will idle very smooth and have all kinds of power. Starting out in second gear is easy, you really dont even have to touch the pedal. After it warms up a little it starts idling lopey shaking the whole truck. Feels like its missing up to about 1600 RPM and starting out in second feels like a challenge even using the throttle. Now as of recently it seems to be like its on and off. Sometimes it runs fantastic. All kinds of power and then boom, crappy again. Ive played with trying to get it to repeat or find a pattern. Seems like if I wind it out between shifts itll smooth out some sometimes. Whens its idling crappy if I hit the throttle quick sometimes its worse and smooths out but its still crappy. When I crank it over it will start with the lopey idle and smooth out but its still lopey. just not as bad.
Also something that started with cold temps was if I dont let it run at least ten minutes before I leave I will get halfway down the block and lose all throttle response and the engine will get loud and feel like half the cylinders shut down. If I let it sit there and idle for a couple minutes then it will be ok. When it starts to lose the throttle and feels like a 4 cylinder and pour blueish smoke out the exhaust. Even if I just let it warm up the ten minutes and it doesnt loose the throttle it will start smokin for about 2/3 of a mile and then its fine the rest of the day. Now im assuming its fuel burning off in the cat and exhaust that im seeing because it burns your eyes and throat?
So does this sound IPR related? It runs so good cold that having bad injectors doesnt seem right to me. Also I pulled the fuel filter out and the fuel looks good. kind of yellowish. Not black and oily so Im assuming injector o-rings are ok?
Im probably gonna pick up my harnesses today. I need to get that taken care of to rule it out and they are bad. Gonna order my glowplugs from jim to today I hope. If not then tomorrow. Also getting new batteries. Sorry for the book but I wanted to put all the symptoms out there.
Also, truck/engine is completely stock and I already have a solid valair flywheel clutch.
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Dan
94.5 F350 7.3 Turbo Powerstroke, 5spd. Crewcab. Dually. Valair Clutch and Solid Flywheel. 4.10's, 316,000 miles
82 Dodge W350, 360, 4spd, 4X4, Extended Cab.
95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 318, AT, 4X4, 2" lift, 30" tires
96 Fleetwood Mallard TT, 30ft/ 79 Trans Am 400, 4spd.
...Also something that started with cold temps was if I dont let it run at least ten minutes before I leave I will get halfway down the block and lose all throttle response and the engine will get loud and feel like half the cylinders shut down. If I let it sit there and idle for a couple minutes then it will be ok...
bumped.
I had this problem once recently too. the motor was cold but had been running for at least 3 min. floor the pedal...nothing. loud exhaust note also at the same time. I dont think my EBPV functions so I kinda thought it must be something else.
(Im fixing the pedestal and rebuilding the turbo one day this summer. black soot marks around the pivot of the EBPV valve. I live in michigan so i want the ebpv to work.)
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1997 Ford F-250HD CC SB Auto 4X4 3.55s 7.3 PSD Rif-Raf 6637, Stancor GPR, MBRP 3" DP to Stainless 4" straight exhaust. 85,000 original miles and counting.
First issue sounds like IPR o-rings. Sometimes it seals, sometimes it doesn't? Just a guess. An indicator is it running better while cold. It's only a couple minutes to do the o-ring swap.
The second issue could be the EBPV staying closed. Do you lose "all" throttle response or is it just spongy?
There's also a tube (EBP) that connects from the pass ex manifold to a sensor forward of the HPOP. You can try and clean the tube to see if it's clogged. Not hard to do. The sensor will cost more, but I'd think you'd have codes showing up if that was a problem.
Just tossing ideas out. You really should dump the codes if you have a scantool.
No I dont have a scan tool. I dont know which one would even be good one to get for the 94.5 computer. And the throttle is not responsive at all when it happens until the engine starts to quiet down. And my ebpv is unplugged.
Quote - I have had been doing alot of reading and chiming in here and there but its time to put all my symptoms together. Ill start off by saying that I do have some bad glowplugs and pins on my harnesses. So thats getting changed/fixed very soon. But I have some other things that I dont believe are the harnesses.
If the pins and under valve cover harness are bad, this can lead to the IDM shutting down, and running on half of the injectors, thus the power loss. I would pull the valve covers and inspect the gasket and under cover wiring. My son's 95 would do this at random times, and the valve cover gaskets and under cover harness were bad. After replacing these, it went back to normal.
Well i will be changing the gaskets and harnesses hopefully this weekend. Im hopin that helps but im thinkin that ipr is stickin or that oring is bad. Idk. i dont know anybody with an idm but if it continues after i fix the harnesses im gonna try to find one. Tonight it ran fantastic. All kinds of power.
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. Sorry for the book but I wanted to put all the symptoms out there.
