I removed my doors by taking the screws out of the hinges in the door jamb on my 52F1. Most of the screws broke on both bottom hinges and when I took the triangular plate found that they were damn near welded in. I drilled and tried easy outs and gave up as they would not move. I can drill them all the way out and retap (maybe) but would like new ones. So far I can't find them for a '52, just '53 and up. I can't even find the hinge screws. I tried to search the threads here but had no luck, tried google and no luck. Anybody know where to get them?
I may know where one of those manifolds is located.....I am not sure what the guy would want for it though, next time I bump into him I will ask.
He has been trying to sell me a really rough 1952 f-2......rough enough that the only useable parts are the mechanicals which I really don't need...he may be willing to sell the manifold off it though??
As far as the hinge screws I got some off of chuck at chucks trucks LLC. He is a great guy and a great source for bonusbuilt parts.
As far as being able to get the door hinges apart I made up a tool that gets them out and doesn't bugger them up. It works about 98% of the time....but it sounds too late for that......
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two restored 1979's a 350 4x4 and a low mile 150 2wd
three 66-77 EB's, one restoration, and 2 rock buggies
three 48-52 f-1 pickups, one sleeper, one 4x4 DD and one restoration project
I removed my doors by taking the screws out of the hinges in the door jamb on my 52F1. Most of the screws broke on both bottom hinges and when I took the triangular plate found that they were damn near welded in. I drilled and tried easy outs and gave up as they would not move. I can drill them all the way out and retap (maybe) but would like new ones. So far I can't find them for a '52, just '53 and up. I can't even find the hinge screws. I tried to search the threads here but had no luck, tried google and no luck. Anybody know where to get them?
I soak continually for like a week with half acetone and atf. Than use a left hand drill bit. As it heats the broke bolt it generally grabs and comes right out.
Left hand bits are not cheap. Drill a pilot hole first than the bigger one bites very well.
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85 XLT Bronco 351W HO 4V Dual Pipes 33X12.5 BFG's 62 Uni 390 C6 Custom Cab Not Yet Sold
4X4 Ranger XL 90 Auto Recently Rolled Back on the road again Don't just Modify it Fordify it
I removed my doors by taking the screws out of the hinges in the door jamb on my 52F1. Most of the screws broke on both bottom hinges and when I took the triangular plate found that they were damn near welded in. I drilled and tried easy outs and gave up as they would not move. I can drill them all the way out and retap (maybe) but would like new ones. So far I can't find them for a '52, just '53 and up. I can't even find the hinge screws. I tried to search the threads here but had no luck, tried google and no luck. Anybody know where to get them?
1948/52
7C-8122800-A2 (replaced 7C-8122800) .. Right Upper Door Hinge / Obsolete
7C-8122801-A2 (replaced 7C-8122801) .. Left Upper Door Hinge / Obsolete
7C-8122810-A2 (replaced 7C-8122810).. Right Lower Door Hinge / Obsolete
7C-8122811-A2 (replaced 7C-8122811).. Left Lower Door Hinge / Obsolete
352282-S8 .. Hinge Screw / Obsolete
No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any of these parts.
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Bill // Retired Ford Parts Manager // SoCal Chapter member // Part Number Research: 1928/2001 FoMoCo vehicles.
oh I wasn't meaning it tersely - I am amazed you came up with the tail light arms. I only have an example of one (from a 46... no part number and no precise description)..
you layed all that out and did it for 3 other parts all under 24 hours. Under 24 hours? Qwist on a bicycle...it took me faaar less time than that!
I thought I was the google god, but you my friend are the parts god.
I didn't use google...
I looked the part numbers up in Ford Parts Catalogs, then searched for them on two (*) parts locator websites. Posted the part numbers/sources of the parts I found.
The whole shebang took me less than 10 minutes, including typing all the info. Coulda done it in less than 5 minutes, if I was a better typer.
* PartsVoice.com = Anyone can access it, the obsolete parts vendor are listed, 20% of the FoMoCo Dealers. Registration, searching for parts is free and more than just Ford parts are listed.
* In-house FoMoCo Dealer Parts Locator System. Sorry, cannot pass along the info.
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Bill // Retired Ford Parts Manager // SoCal Chapter member // Part Number Research: 1928/2001 FoMoCo vehicles.
4 NOS steel F1 fenders (will $400 be enough?) You better take pictures for us to see!!
$400 might be enough for half of one NOS fender. I will take pictures if permitted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic y block
Don't fall off the damn ladder and get busted up.
I might not even be able to make it to the ladder. I just might pass out after stepping into this place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by truckdog62563
You guys just sent me out to the shop to look more closely at my eBay manifold. It's pretty much crud free on the outer surfaces, and I don't see any cracks. Is there one weak spot, or could it be anywhere? I started to run it through the blast cabinet but it soon plugged up the feed with the rust flakes coming out of the inside, so I'll wait on that until warmer weather and do it outside. Stu
Stu, on the manifolds that I've had/have, I found cracks to be generally in different areas. The original manifold that was on my 215 cracked in the center area around the bolt holes where it mounts to the block. The other manifold that I had was slighlty cracked on the right bottom section of the casting, sort of in the web area between the exhaust pipe connection area and the manifold cross bar. This one has also developed a small 1" crack (probably from all of the heating during the crappy repair) on the backside and a crack running from the bottom of the heat riser section, across the top, and down to the other side. A third manifold that I recently obtained from "old_dan" also has a crack in the same section of the heat riser. But honestly, I think that they're prone to cracking any where.
Yours may appear to be good, even after blasting it, but it may crack as soon as you run it on the truck. It's just one of those "you never know until.." things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpb222
I may know where one of those manifolds is located.....I am not sure what the guy would want for it though, next time I bump into him I will ask.
I'd like to find one soon because I'm slated to get my motor back next week. Could you "bump" into him sooner? You'd be doing me a huge favor for trying.
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1951 Ford Panel
1952 Ford Panel
1937 Chrysler Airflow C17
...and way too many Bonus Built/Economy Built parts... http://www.bonusbuiltpanels.com/- under construction
Thanks Artic and NumberD. I will try the soaking, but what about the hinge screws? Are there other options that anyone knows about?
I should have several of the original hinge screws that I removed from trucks, but can be used to get new screws. You may not get the 100% exact screw, but it may be close. Let me dig them up and I'll get some specs on it. I'm sure that Fastenal or McCaster-Carr would have something close.
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1951 Ford Panel
1952 Ford Panel
1937 Chrysler Airflow C17
...and way too many Bonus Built/Economy Built parts... http://www.bonusbuiltpanels.com/- under construction
$400 might be enough for half of one NOS fender. I will take pictures if permitted.
Hehe. I was just dreamin'. I'd say it would be more like gold bars IF they even exist at this point. And yeah don't get yourself shot taking pictures either. Have fun!
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Shane
1949 F1, Original, 8BA
1950 F1, 302, C6 (in a lot of pieces)
1950 F5
1997 F150 XLT, 4.6L
2008 F250 XLT, 6.4L Powerstroke
53-56 long bed running boards are somewhat scarce. Even more difficult is a good pair of the F350 long bed running boards. I have one good one and a couple of not so good that will take a bunch of repair before I'm done with my 54 F250.
On the hard to find parts (and I know this is cheating...) anything for my 1930 Pontiac. An original good condition front floor mat would be awesome.
Ford related hard to find parts, any of the following: two 1938 only NOS 81A-6050 cylinder heads, a 1938 only NOS 81A-6050 head and a 1938 only NOS 81A-6049 head, or a pair of usable 81AS cast iron cylinder heads.
How is the 52 215 manifold different from 53, and from the 223 manifolds? Can you post pictures? I am curious what I've got with my 53 sedan.
I also have this spare 215 engine that I bought off ebay. I bought the whole '52 F-2 roller, and this is the pic the ebay seller posted of it. The exhaust manifold has a nearly straight outlet, where the 223 is decidely curved. I don't have a file pic of one of them. Stu
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Stu McMillan
1952 F-3 Marmon-Herrington
I should have several of the original hinge screws that I removed from trucks, but can be used to get new screws. You may not get the 100% exact screw, but it may be close. Let me dig them up and I'll get some specs on it. I'm sure that Fastenal or McCaster-Carr would have something close.
Thanks, I do have one that didn't break from the top hinge. I will go to Fasteners Supply here in Houston and look for something that might work. I will find something that will work.
Ilya , keep an eye out for or add to list a stock ribbed rear bumper for a '51 or '52 if you go . A NOS one would be awesome .Thanks , Denny
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1994 Dodge Ram Van ( the work truck ) ,1993 Dakota w/ 44k mi.,1952 F-1 the 1ST-RIDE ,23 T-Roadster w/ 426 wedge bored to 440 (85 % done ) ,1952 F-1 stock (under const) "Those of you who think you know it all are really annoying to those of us who do " Mark Donahue or Roger Penske Indy '71
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) You better take pictures for us to see!!
I will take pictures if permitted.
