Would not start this morning?
#1
Would not start this morning?
I picked up my (1999 E-350) van from Goodyear last night and drive it home... about three miles. Planned to take it to the emissions testing station today so I can get my registration done this week. Ten day plate is up Saturday : (
Would not start. Always turned over fine before. Started up first time last eve.
Question. Are there any interlocks as far as the brakes or parking break that can prevent the van from starting? I hear a faint "clunk" when I tried the key and then it seems to release/reset when I turn the key off. Starter relay??
The battery voltage indicator was about 3/4 the way up to the top but I did put a charger on it before I went to work today.
What can I check tonight after work?
Thanks
Would not start. Always turned over fine before. Started up first time last eve.
Question. Are there any interlocks as far as the brakes or parking break that can prevent the van from starting? I hear a faint "clunk" when I tried the key and then it seems to release/reset when I turn the key off. Starter relay??
The battery voltage indicator was about 3/4 the way up to the top but I did put a charger on it before I went to work today.
What can I check tonight after work?
Thanks
#3
After its charged completely according to your charger (if so equipped) take it to your closest parts store who also sell batteries---I suggest NAPA personally---awesome batteries, pricey but good warranty and great battery over all!
They can load test the existing battery and tell if its capable of holding sufficient charge to start. If a battery temporarily solves the no start thing immediately check the alternator output at the battery terminals with the engine running---should be about 14.2 volts. If not you have a charging system issue, typically the alternator has failed or is on its way out.
They can load test the existing battery and tell if its capable of holding sufficient charge to start. If a battery temporarily solves the no start thing immediately check the alternator output at the battery terminals with the engine running---should be about 14.2 volts. If not you have a charging system issue, typically the alternator has failed or is on its way out.
#4
I feel it's important to report back when a problem is solved so...
Still would not start this morning (to go to emissions) so I did what I should have done yesterday and turned on the head lights. They did not dim or even flicker when I turned the key.
Easy test to see if the battery is good. Bad ones will cause the lights to dim or go out completely.
So not the battery... Yey!
I did get it to finally start, though, after I ran the shifter back and forth a few times. I think it is related to the "neutral-park-drive" code I'm still getting. There is apparently a sensor/switch on the tranny that tells the controller what gear you're in. Mine is not working correctly.
Playing around with the shifter must have jogged it enough to where it would let me start it.
BTW: I passed emissions because with vehicles over a certain weight they use the old method (probe up the tail pipe only) and do not plug into the code connector. Otherwise, the fellow said, I would have failed.
Now to find and fix that switch.
Still would not start this morning (to go to emissions) so I did what I should have done yesterday and turned on the head lights. They did not dim or even flicker when I turned the key.
Easy test to see if the battery is good. Bad ones will cause the lights to dim or go out completely.
So not the battery... Yey!
I did get it to finally start, though, after I ran the shifter back and forth a few times. I think it is related to the "neutral-park-drive" code I'm still getting. There is apparently a sensor/switch on the tranny that tells the controller what gear you're in. Mine is not working correctly.
Playing around with the shifter must have jogged it enough to where it would let me start it.
BTW: I passed emissions because with vehicles over a certain weight they use the old method (probe up the tail pipe only) and do not plug into the code connector. Otherwise, the fellow said, I would have failed.
Now to find and fix that switch.
#7
It is good and helpful reporting back on your eventual fixes---some forget to do this after they've found the problem and too happy to have their trucks running again----thanks Scooter!
I've had a few vehicles with the neutral safety switch issue---an older high mileage '88 E150 had worn and sloppy linkage that occasionally wouldn't position it correctly---that van was eventually scrapped though.
Also nice to send reps to those who help or contribute too----just sayin'............. (Not me---Shorebird etc......)
I've had a few vehicles with the neutral safety switch issue---an older high mileage '88 E150 had worn and sloppy linkage that occasionally wouldn't position it correctly---that van was eventually scrapped though.
Also nice to send reps to those who help or contribute too----just sayin'............. (Not me---Shorebird etc......)
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pekkah
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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12-18-2007 09:06 AM