Reed here are the specs you asked for. And you also asked about the stock heads--yes, I had the stock heads rebuilt (valves, valve springs, valve guides, hard seats?).

My engine guy bored and honed the cylinders to .030" over stock (makes about 356 cid doesn't it?)

The cam is a Melling MTF5 so that gives a little larger valve opening and longer duration, doesn't it?

So he's given me an educated guess of about 300hp depending on my carb (which is a Holley 4 barrel). And peak torque of about 350ft-lbs around 1200-1400 rpm.

I don't really know how to do engine math, so does any of that add up to you guys?

t

 

Yeah that sounds about right, especially on the torque. Should move that f1 around nicely. I test drove a 51 f1 around a field one time that had a junkyard 351 in it. It would throw me back in the seat. I know yours will do a lot better lol

 

You really can't calculate HP or torque figures, just make an educated guess. Only real way to know is to put it on an engine or chassis dyno and make a few pulls. Shur is purty tho!

 

Good clarification. Thanks. It's all just academic anyway. Whatever the real numbers are is what they are. Not gonna change anything to try to get a certain rating out of it.

T

 

Sticking with my original claim. Here's the specs on the MTF-5

MTF-5
@ .050 Lifter rise
INT. -5 BTC 29 ABC 204
EXH. 44 BBC -10 ATC 214

@ .006 Lifter rise (advertised)
INT. 28 BTC 72 ABC 280
EXH. 77 BBC 33 ATC 290

Centerline
INT. 107
EXH. 117

Lobe lift / Gross lift w/1.6 rocker
INT .280 / .449
EXH .295 / .473

 

engine looks great

 

Ha ha! No idea what to do with those numbers. But quite honestly, LESS hp is better, as my teenaged son will be the primary driver.

Thanks dano. T

 

Needless to say, it's pretty tame. Should expect great idle qualities and excellent vacuum at idle. Will work just fine with a stock style torque converter, no added stall needed. Basically this is just a little more cam than a stocker. It'll make good torque but will likely start fallin flat on the power curve around 5000 rpms. Still a good cam that should also be reasonable with fuel milage if one was to drive it that way... lol

 

If you are racing it might matter what the actual HP figure is, but as long as it runs dependably and doesn't automatically pull in to every gas station it passes, and is fun to drive the way you like to drive, that's what's important. With an engine that has been modified: cam, heads, intake, and/or carb, it would be a good idea to take it to a chassis dyno shop that knows what they are doing and have it tuned once to be sure it is running at peak efficiency with that combo. Seldom will the carb be jetted where it should be out of the box, and the combo may benefit from a timing curve adjustment as well. So many times gearheads will change parts without rebalancing the whole and actually lose performance.