I want to replace the dash lights behind the gauges they are 194 ll And I replaced them and it's dull still so I got 194 led s. but has anyone tried this ?

 

Yes, they have. Do a search and you'll find a lot of discussion about dash lighting.

 

i got some led ones from auto zone and i installed them and they didnt turn on but the stock ones work the package says 12 v so im curious what the stock light reads not sure why they wont turn on or work

 

I did this just a couple of weeks ago. I replaced my standard bulbs with green 194 LEDs, and removed the blue filters from the instrument cluster. A lot of people have been very happy doing this, but I was disappointed; my cluster is still quite dim.

 

You got the green ones? Did the bulb look like the shape of the original bulb or does it have like 4 separate led s on it? I replaces mine with clear led s that looked like te original bulb but it didn't light up at all

 

None of them lit? And then you put the original bulbs back and they worked? If so, I don't have a clue why not. The first thought that came to mind was reversed polarity, but surely not.

 

I got these: Wide Angle Ultra Brite Inverted Lens LED Bulb 194 T10 | eBay

They're each a single bulb, but are flat on the top where the original bulbs are rounded. I had no problem getting them to light up - I just pushed them into the sockets with no problem.

 

Apparently the rheostat in the headlight switch that controls light intensity when you rotate the **** can gradually go bad. The worse it gets, the dimmer your lights and it isn't the bulbs fault. So that could be a possibility.

As you probably know, LEDs aren't designed to be dimmable like an incadescent bulb. They are more of an "all on" or "all off" type deal.

 

Now that's interesting...I never considered the possibility that the headlight switch was going. My old bulbs would brighten and dim as I rotated the switch, they just never got very bright. Now of course the new ones don't, but as you say that's to be expected.

It should be reasonably easy to test whether the headlight switch is at fault...do you (or anyone?) know what the resistance range should be for the rheostat?

 

I don't know how to test it. Removing it is kind of awkward, or at least I used to think so before installing a clutch master cylinder firewall repair kit taught me what real under-the-dash awkwardness is.

You can also clean corrosion off of the little brass contacts that the bi-pin cluster bulbs slide into, with emory paper or just a coarse pencil eraser. That can potentially brighten the bulbs.

 

Guys
Remember that there is a voltage regulator attached to the dash circuit board, these have been known to go bad-this could be adding to the problem. I really don't know how to test it. Good luck with your project

 

The voltage regulator is used for the gauges, but not the lights.

 

i installed the led i got from the auto store it changes 7 different colors...not what i wanted so i got another led that had 4 bulbs of leds on it and tried that but the light is very yellow especially under the greenish cover that is behind the dash doesnt lite it up as well as id like.. im lost not sure what to do

 

Matt Garrett - 1984 Ford F250


scroll down on his pictures and look at how lit up his gauges are how? and the truck is beautiful!!

 

Those covers pop right out. I see you can do it one of three ways:

1. Remove the covers, install green 194 LEDs. This is what I did.

2. Leave the covers in place, install white 194 LEDs.

3. Remove the covers, install white 194 LEDs.

The third option will give you white lighting that may be too bright for you. If you still want to be able to dim the lights, you'll need regular incandescent 194s, as the LED bulbs aren't dimmable.

If you want to go any of the LED routes, hit the link I provided earlier...the service was good, and the bulbs were reasonably priced. And Bill can talk you through ordering the right bulbs for what you want to do.