215 6 cylinder Help!!
#1
215 6 cylinder Help!!
I am a new guy to the forumn that just got a 53 f100 with a 215 6 cylinder. The truck was sitting in a tree row for years. I would really like to get the old motor running. I can turn it over by hand, so I think I can salvage it. I am hoping I can get some advise on what steps to take in getting it running. Any guidance is appreciated! Thanks
#2
I am a new guy to the forumn that just got a 53 f100 with a 215 6 cylinder. The truck was sitting in a tree row for years. I would really like to get the old motor running. I can turn it over by hand, so I think I can salvage it. I am hoping I can get some advise on what steps to take in getting it running. Any guidance is appreciated! Thanks
I had the same issue with my 223 6 cyl It was my grandfathers truck and had sat in a garage since 1975. It turned over by hand so I pulled it and had a co-workers father go thru it for me. I bought a complete gasket set, piston rings , head bolts, etc... He tore it completely down cleaned it up and replaced anything that was worn out. He even had the head machined while he was at it. Cost me $400 in labor and $300 in parts. Still haven't gotten it running yet since I don't have the truck back together that far. If yours has sat for a long time...I would do the same.
#3
I'm in the process of getting my 215 rebuilt right now and should get it back in about a week. It's agreat engine. However, finding engine parts can become a little tough, depending on what you need. I needed six 0.060 pistons. I bought all NOS parts needed for the rebuild, including three pistons for less than I paid to get the other three pistons from EGGE. One of the main issues with that engine is its carburetor. The Holley 1904 is notorious for leaking and needs to be rebuilt correctly.
This is what my 215 looked like before I tore it apart for a rebuild.
This is what my 215 looked like before I tore it apart for a rebuild.
#4
Pull the oil pan, check for any signs of metal shavings, water, etc. Look for signs of damage. Pull the tappet cover (push rod cover on the the right side of the motor. Make sure your push rods are not jammed up. Pull the valve cover, take a look inside for any issues. Pull the spark plugs and note how they look. Plugs can tell you a lot. Replace. If your crankshaft turns you should be ok. Take the water pump off and flush out the inside. I usually use a mixture of vinegar and water, let it sit overnight and flush out. Make sure your freeze plugs are intact. Put everything back together with new gaskets (Oreilly auto has all the gaskets for fairly cheap). Change the oil and try to get it fired up. I personally never tear down a motor if everything visually looks ok. I know a lot of guys just tear it down but without knowing the history I want to hear it run, if possible, before sinking money into rebuilt kits. Of course if you have water in the oil or some other contamination you may need to tear down and rebuild. Once you pull the head then you typically need to go all the way. Your approach depends a lot on what you want out of the engine. Rebuilding takes time and money and some skill. These 215's are good little motors but they do have some quirks. If you get the motor running you can then check compression, etc. that will tell you more. Good luck.
#5
#6
A couple ideas I would add to teardropty's suggestions are to clean up or replace the points, and make sure you have clean gas. Either have someone pouring some into the carb or run a rubber hose from a five gallon can to the fuel pump. When I first tried my 215 I checked out most of the area mentioned. I drained the gas tank tank and put in fresh gas thinking I was set to give it a try. Turned out the tank wasn't as clean as I thought it was. I agree with the idea of not pulling it apart until to you find out that you need to. My 215 had been sitting for about fifteen years. With fresh oil, clean gas and good spark, it fired up and ran great. Good luck!
#7
Ditto on the crankshaft. Majority of them crack in the journals. A good 215 crankshaft is hard to find because they're only made for two years (52-53). It took me four crankshafts until a good one was found. The one in my engine was cracked. The one in my spare motor was also cracked. Bought one on eBay and it arrived broken in half (thanks to UPS and it likely had a crack too). Same seller had another one and luckily it arrived in one piece and was good enough to use. The exhaust manifold is another problem. As I've mentioned before, they're notorious for cracking. However, if your truck is a 53, then you can use an exhaust manifold from a 223 and have it still be correct. 52 was the only year where the exhaust manifold dumped straight down into the exhaust pipe.
My 215 sat idle for several years. It was a strong running motor when it was pulled out from the truck. I trusted the seller (former president of the national V8 club). Before I installed the motor, I checked everything out as suggested above. I even hooked it up to a battery source and tested the compression. I did a complete tune up and fluid change. Engine ran fine for several months and then developed a mysterious backfire. I chased the problem and never found it. I threw in the towel and decided to have my motor rebuilt. The machine shop told me that the culprit was likely a bad valve(s) and/or seat(s). So, moral of the story, appearance can be deceiving.
Kanters is way to expensive for the kit. I found 75% of the parts (NOS) from Green Sales in Ohio. The rest of the pistons came from EGGE. I have about $650 in parts.
My 215 sat idle for several years. It was a strong running motor when it was pulled out from the truck. I trusted the seller (former president of the national V8 club). Before I installed the motor, I checked everything out as suggested above. I even hooked it up to a battery source and tested the compression. I did a complete tune up and fluid change. Engine ran fine for several months and then developed a mysterious backfire. I chased the problem and never found it. I threw in the towel and decided to have my motor rebuilt. The machine shop told me that the culprit was likely a bad valve(s) and/or seat(s). So, moral of the story, appearance can be deceiving.
Kanters is way to expensive for the kit. I found 75% of the parts (NOS) from Green Sales in Ohio. The rest of the pistons came from EGGE. I have about $650 in parts.
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#8
my '48 has a '57 223. It sat for 29 years.
I pulled the plugs, squirted some Marvel oil in and turned it by hand.
Oil and repeat. After a couple days and a few revolutions, started it up after an oil change.
Runs great after a carb rebuild.
Noticed the front oil seal was leaking.
Pulled it apart, threw on a new timing chain, new front seal and a redi-sleeve on the harmonic balancer.
Drove it a few days then the freeze plug behind the flywheel started leaking.
Pulled the motor and changed all the plugs to brass. Good to go now.
I pulled the plugs, squirted some Marvel oil in and turned it by hand.
Oil and repeat. After a couple days and a few revolutions, started it up after an oil change.
Runs great after a carb rebuild.
Noticed the front oil seal was leaking.
Pulled it apart, threw on a new timing chain, new front seal and a redi-sleeve on the harmonic balancer.
Drove it a few days then the freeze plug behind the flywheel started leaking.
Pulled the motor and changed all the plugs to brass. Good to go now.
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